“Fear, Misery, Exhilaration And Thrill In The City Of Light”

PARLER PARIS: FEAR, MISERY, EXHILARATION AND THRILL IN THE CITY OF
LIGHT


December 23, 2002


Clearly the city is going through a transitional period: as the year
is coming to a close, as the winter solstice has arrived and now our
days are longer and longer, as residents are fleeing to their country
homes or vacations spots and as tourists alight for an exciting New
Year in the City of Light.


Nothing seems normal and both the climate and the energy are
unpredictable. Every day of this past week was like a roller coaster
ride of fear, misery, exhilaration and thrill.


Fear set in when I discovered that the Centre des Impots had put a
freeze on my bank account simply because the right hand of the office
didn’t know that the left hand had deposited my "Taxe Foncière" check
(property tax). And because of it, a series of repercussions took
place, including a bounced mortgage payment. Thanks to legal advisor,
Jean Taquet, whose office is close by and who is willing to help at
any moment, the two hands came together and fixed the problem, agreed
it was their fault and would reimburse me the 76 euro the bank
charged for the action.


Misery is what I’d call the 1 1/2 hour wait outside the Préfecture in
the cold wind and rain along with hundreds of others forming a long
line down the Ile de la Cité. I was told my Carte de Séjour,
renewable every year, was "possibly" ready, but the only way to know
was to go there myself and ask for it. So, not to have the New Year
start without my legal papers in hand, I was in that line at 8:15
a.m. praying for the best. Luckily, not only was it there waiting for
me, but no "timbre" need be purchased this year!


Exhilaration is what we all experienced at Sara Baras’ opening night
performance at the Théâtre de Champs-Elysées, so exhilarating that I
am compelled to tell you more, so scroll down till you get to
"Tappin’ Her Way…" I’ve mentioned it before, but it deserves
mentioning again — that French audiences are particularly fun to be
among — well behaved, respectful and extremely appreciative of
talent. At this elegant red velvet-seated theater where every seat is
a good one, the audience came dressed beautifully and fashionably.
The people-watching was delightful.


Thrilling was the glowing sunshine on the south side of the buildings
along the Seine at about 3:30 p.m. on Sunday afternoon while after
days of cold, gray and rain. It was surreal in effect with the dark
blue/gray clouds behind them, but a warm golden glow emanating from
the freshly cleaned stones of Le Louvre. We spotted it from the
windows of the Musée d’Orsay where we were taking in the new
exhibitions "Manet… Velázquez…The Spanish Manner in the 19th
Century" and "Masterpieces of the Musée d’Orsay Photographic
Collection." From out on the street, it was even more thrilling as it
had turned warm and almost balmy.


Hats and gloves off, umbrellas closed and tucked away, we walked all
the way home, carefully battling the crowds of last-minute Christmas
shoppers along rue de Rivoli and all up rue Vieille du Temple as the
sun went down, the street lamps turned on and night fell.


Happy Holidays to all…a la prochaine fois,


Adrian
E-mail: mailto:paris@internationalliving.com


P.S. Due to the Holiday Season, there will be no Paris Property
Insider on Thursday, December 26th. Special note: Parler Paris and
Paris Property Insider are both part of your Parler Paris
subscription. If you unsubscribe from one, you’ll stop receiving
both.


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Issue Number 70, December 23, 2002


In this issue:


*** Even Her Name Has The Rhythm of Flemenco
*** To Speak About Paris One Après Midi in January
*** Paint at the Foot of Cordes sur Ciel this Spring
*** The Bargains Begin in January
*** Corsican Cuisine in the 15th Arrondissement
*** Become a Travel Writer Over Five Days in April
*** Submit Your Best Poems to Read at World Poetry Day
*** Poetry in Motion — Four Days in Paris
*** King For a Day on January 18th at Parler Parlor
*** Monday Night English Theater
*** Discover the World’s Best Destinations This March
*** A Laundry List of American Organizations in Paris


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** SHE’S TAPPIN’ HER WAY INTO THE NEW YEAR
— Adrian Leeds


Even her name sounds like her flamenco feet. When you say
"sah-rah-bah-ras" — it has a rhythm and a beat to it, just like her
feet.


Before Saturday night, I’d never heard of her, except for having seen
the posters all over town of this gorgeous woman with black hair
parted down the middle, tied back tight and slick, enveloped in
flowing red silk, the silk clinging to her lean muscular body.


Sara Baras, a native of Cádiz and only 30 years old, Sara is not new
to Paris. She first appeared here in 1991 at the tender age of 20 for
two whole months at the Eduard VII Theatre. In 1992 she attended the
Bienale de la Danse de Lyon, and appeared at the Palais de Congrés
here in Paris. In 1997, Baras presented her own troupe to critical
and public acclaim and on April 2, 1998, with her own company made up
of herself, seven dancers and seven musicians, she launched the show
called "Sensaciones." Sensaciones is not conventional theater — it
is an exploration of the various forms of flamenco.


Her performance at the Théâtre de Champs-Elysées opened Saturday
night to a full house. I’d guess that most of the audience didn’t
know what to expect, much like us. My image of flamenco was certainly
more traditional — and 180 degrees from the ballet performed by Sara
Baras’ and her troop.


Sara herself is stunningly elegant — every movement precision. She
and her troop (also all excellent dancers) wore magnificent
contemporary costumes made of flowing silks and lace in a theme of
black and white, some grays with an injection of hot pink. The stage
set was simple, yet cleverly designed to allow for soft reflections
and shadows. Sometimes the story was a bit humorous (nuns in perfect
flamenco harmony), sometimes sensual (lovers courting), sometimes
passionate (heated, quick rhythmic movements) and always visually
exciting (precision control of their flowing silk garb).


I was simply awe-struck by the entire scene. Everyone was. When the
performance ended, the audience wouldn’t let them leave. The ovation
was standing…and she was generous. She and her troop continued to
perform for another 20 minutes or more, each displaying his or her
own special talent with improvisational dance.


Don’t miss this show unless you have to. It runs until January 5th:
Sara Baras Flamenco Ballet. For more information, visit:
http://www.theatrechampselysees.fr/


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*** SEE YOU NEXT YEAR AT "PARLER PARIS APRES-MIDI"


If you missed the first one, you won’t have to miss the second one.
Just show up between 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. on January 14th, 2003, at LE
WEB BAR, 32 Rue de Picardie, 3rd arrondissement, Paris Métro Temple
or République, for coffee (or whatever your heart desires) and
conversation with Parler Paris staff and readers.


We’ll be there the second Tuesday of every month! For a full schedule
and all the details, visit our Web site at
/parlerparis/apresmidi.html


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** A CREATIVE AND SPIRITUAL ADVENTURE YOU’LL NEVER FORGET
— Carolyn Byrne


Come to the next FRENCH ARTIST WORKSHOP in the Tarn Valley of
southwest France, May 19-30, 2003. It’s a ten day creative and
spiritual adventure and one you will never forget. I know, because I
have returned five times and, this past October, bought a house in a
small village at the foot of Cordes sur Ciel, one of the 12th-century
bastides for which the southwest is so famous. The beauty of the area
is unsurpassed and magical. And the workshop, led by renowned French
artist, Elisabeth Poiret, enlightens and takes you to deeper levels
than you’ve ever experienced, either personally or artistically. The
workshop is for novice to professional. Come! It’s heaven!


For more info: Carolyn Byrne, email:
mailto:bonjardin@aol.com?subject=French_Artist_Workshop or visit our
website: http://thefrenchartistworkshops.com


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** LET THE WINTER BARGAINS BEGIN!


The official winter SOLDES (sales) start January 8th, 2003 and
continue for four weeks until February 4th here in Paris. For the
dates for all departments in France, visit:
http://www.finances.gouv.fr/DGCCRF/actualites/soldes.htm


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** LA VILLA CORSE DANS LA VILLE DE PARIS
–Adrian Leeds


I have come to respect several of my "foodie" friends for great finds
and this is one of them. Thanks to Eva Lee Lichtenberg of
Tranquility, New Jersey, La Villa Corse is one I wouldn’t have
normally made a point of testing from the look on the exterior – a
bit too lit, a bit too flashy, a bit too professionally decorated. In
fact, once inside, you will feel transported to another realm
entire
ly — certainly not Paris; possibly New York. Décor is
sophisticated, masculine, yet warm, with tones of peach, soft
lighting,
low wooden tables, leather armchairs, a library of books,
elegant oil paintings and drawings in gilded frames. Yes, a
commercial decorator had a hand here, but delightfully so. The young
wait staff are all dressed in black and not one seems older than 29,
but clearly well-trained and attentive to the customers.


What impresses you most, though, are the delightful smells coming
from the hot plates as they are whisked past you to other diners.
Slices of three different breads are placed on a small plate, one for
each person. That’s before you have a chance to peruse the talk
"ardoise" on it’s own easel that is brought to your table. "Terrine
de sanglier et sa confiture d’ognon" is a specialty entrée, but I
opted for the special of the evening — "Clamars sauté a l’huile
dólive." Perfectly tender, swimming in a luscious olive oil with
fresh tomatoes and parsley, served plain and simple in a white bowl.
The serving style is clearly Italian – more emphasis placed on the
flavor and quality of what you are about to eat rather than an
elaborate presentation. The following courses are outstanding:
"Suprême de pintadeau au miel du miolu, poires pommes roties,"
"Rigatoni au ragout de sanglier," "Cote de veau"poele aux carottes,
cumin, miel du miolu." There are an abundance of traditional Corsican
dishes to try, so La Villa Corse deserves many return visits.


LA VILLA CORSE
Corsican
164 Boulevard de Grenelle, Arrondissement 15
Phone 01.53.86.70.81
Métro Cambronne, La Motte-Piquet
Closed Sunday and Monday Lunch
20 Euro 2-Course Lunch Menu with Glass of Wine and Coffee, Dinner A
La
Carte: 35 to 45 Euros per Person


By the same owner, with the same exact menu is Casa Corsa, on rue
Mazarine, just next door to International Living’s pied-à terre
(/parlerparis/property/mazarine.html) and Parler
Parlor’s Eurocentres location in Passage Dauphine!


6TH ARRONDISSEMENT
"Casa Corsa"
25 rue Mazarine, Métro Odéon, Phone 01.44.07.38.98, Fax
01.43.54.14.79


EDITOR’S NOTE: This review is an excerpt from the "Leeds Good Value
Guide to Paris Restaurants." A new edition was just updated and is
available for download by visiting
http://www.insiderparisguides.com/restaurants/index.html


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** OVER 5 DAYS IN PARIS THIS APRIL, YOU CAN…


* Learn the secrets of becoming a successful travel writer from a
group of the best editors and writers in the business…


* Discover little-known techniques travel writers use to land free
vacations — free concert tickets — free meals and more…


* Walk away with a publishable piece…and the contact information
for an editor who is eager to pay you for your article…


* Find out how easy it is to earn extra income while you travel the
world…meet new people…and enjoy the freedom and independence of a
writer’s life…


The American Writers and Artists Institute and International Living
present THE ULTIMATE TRAVEL WRITER’S WORKSHOP Paris, France, April
24-28, 2003 /parlerparis/travelwriters/index.html


OPTIONAL ADD-ONS: We have arranged for several additional activities
we hope will interest you…


* SURVIVAL FRENCH, April 23 and 24, 2003
/parlerparis/travelwriters/french.html


* LITERARY WALKING TOURS with Elizabeth Reichert Literary Left Bank
Tour, April 26, 3:00 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. Paris is a Woman Tour, April
29, 11:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
/parlerparis/travelwriters/literarytours.html


* DINNER OUT April 27, 2003 at 8:00 p.m.
/parlerparis/travelwriters/optionaldinner.html


For complete information, visit
/parlerparis/travelwriters/index.html


Call to reserve your place –
Phone: (800) 926-6575 and (561) 243-6276 or
E-mail: mailto:tours@internationalliving.com


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** POETIC LICENSE IN THE CITY OF LIGHT


Poetry was, until recently, an ar that shared the same flat latitude
as mime and macramé. Suddenly, and astonishingly, it’s found it’s
voice. And it’s the voice itself, bringing us the spoken and
performed poem, that is driving this resurgence — book sales have
increased 25% this past year!


Poetry events are happening everywhere from Lexington, Kentucky to
Rotterdam, Holland and have garnered enthusiastic crowds. Paris is no
exception.


"Dialogue Through Poetry" is seeking poets of all nationalities to
read at WORLD POETRY DAYS, a two day poetry event March 21 and 22,
2003 which will be held at the Grand Salon of the Fondation des Etats
Unis at the Cité Universitaire in Paris. This event is scheduled to
coincide with UNESCO readings held around the world in the interest
of world peace through poetry (http://www.dialoguepoetry.org).


To be one of the lucky poets to read your work at World Poetry Days,
simply s
ubmit 2 to 4 poems in the original language (simple
translations in English or French would be appreciated) to their
email address: mailto:PoetryDialogue@aol.com no later than January
31, 2003. There is no charge to participate.


*** CELEBRATING WITH A POETRY WORKSHOP


In celebration of this event, International Living’s Paris Office is
hosting the PARIS POETRY WORKSHOP, an intensive four-day workshop
March 17 – 20, 2003, led by master instructor and published American
poet, Cecilia Woloch, with guest instructors and speakers well-known
to the poetry community such as Jeffrey Greene, Elizabeth Reichert,
Ethan Gilsdorf, Ellen Hinsey, Kathleen Spivack and Sarah Luczaj
(/parlerparis/poetry/index.html). Registration before
January 31, 2003 is a savings of $100.


The Paris Poetry Workshop welcomes Sarah Luczaj who will be reading
her work at the Café de Flore and providing her insights to workshop
participants.


Sarah Luczaj is an English poet, who has, after some travels, settled
in Poland, where she lives in the countryside with her husband and
little girl, Nasim. Her work has been published in, amongst others,
the APR, The New Statesman(UK), Cream City Review, and yefief.
Translations are forthcoming in the Cider Press Review. She is a
training therapeutic counsellor, and teacher of English. In this
issue, we have her translations of Halina Poswiatowska.


For more about the PARIS POETRY WORKSHOP, visit
/parlerparis/poetry/index.html


And there’s more…


WORLD POETRY DAYS
/parlerparis/poetry/worldpoetryday.html


THE LITERARY LEFT BANK TOUR
/parlerparis/poetry/literarytour.html


SURVIVAL FRENCH
/parlerparis/poetry/survivalfrench.html


FAREWELL DINNER /parlerparis/poetry/dinnerreading.html


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* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** KINGS TAKE THE CAKE AT PARLER PARLOR JANUARY 18TH


A few special announcements from Parler Parlor:


* Parler Parlor is CLOSED FROM DECEMBER 24TH, 2002, REOPENING JANUARY
4TH 2003.


* SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT: Starting January 8, the Wednesday sessions
will move to 2:30 p.m. to 4 p.m.


* Coming next to Parler Parlor is our annual KING CAKE PARTY (Galette
des Rois)!


Saturday, January 18, 2002, 11 A.M. at Eurocentres, 13 Passage
Dauphine, 6th arrondissement. Open to everyone, at 5 Euro per person


Come for conversation at 11 a.m. then stay for Galette des Rois,
drinks and other desserts. Make new friends — get to know the
members of Parler Parlor.


All memberships that day get an additional 10% discount! For more
information, call or email: mailto:info@parlerparlor.com or Elisabeth
at 01.44.19.76.61 or Adrian at 01.40.27.97.59


For more information, visit: http://www.parlerparlor.com/


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** EGG INNOVATING WITH A NOVEL CREDIT CARD IN FRANCE


Following its purchase of the French online bank Zebank in May 2002,
the British online bank Egg, a subsidiary of the Prudential insurance
company, launched November 2nd, 2002 a Visa credit card.


This type of card is unusual on the French market, where customers
use mainly payment cards or cash cards, while the Egg card is very
similar to the credit cards issued by distributors and credit
institutions. Egg is innovating by offering its card holder 1% cash
back on the total annual amount of purchases made with the card,
either in France or abroad. People applying for the Egg card do not
have to change banks, all they have to do is complete an application
form online on the Egg site or on the MSN portal of Microsoft, with
which Egg has signed an agreement, or alternatively they can sign up
in an Internity store. Internity, a subsidiary of Avenir Telecom is a
partner of Egg. The annual card fee is 35 euro.


Customers have the choice between settling their account in full at
the end of the month, in which case there are no charges, or to
spread their repayments over time, subject to their available credit
limit, which is fixed when the card is issued. The interest rate
applying to the revolving credit is 12.7% (APRC of 12.99%). Holders
can also obtain cash advances from an ATM, charged at the same rate
of interest. Egg card holders are offered two insurance formulas:
"Egg Sécurité", which is billed at 24 euros and guarantees the holder
against theft, loss or fraud, "Egg Tranquillité" which provides life
insurance and disability insurance cover. In addition to an intensive
advertising campaign, the launch of the Egg card is being accompanied
by a special promotional offer: customers who apply for the card
before 31st December 2002 will be exempted from the annual fee and
the reimbursement rate for their purchases up to the end of the year
will be 5 %.


Egg wants to make a profit in France in 2004 and its target is one
million customers by the end of 2005.


EDITOR’S NOTE: The above article was reprinted from
http://www.qualisteam.com/news/nov02/8-11-02-1.html


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** MONDAY NIGHT THEATER AT THEATRE ESPACE CARDIN


8:15 p.m.
1 avenue Gabriel, Paris 8th M Concorde


JANUARY 13th and 20th: 8:15 p.m., SHIRLEY VALENTINE Act 1 by Willy
Russell performance in English


ONE NIGHT entrance: 15 Euros (10 Euros tarif réduit)


RESERVATION ONLY: Call 01.48.28.00.46 or E-mail:
mailto:angloplay@wanadoo.fr and by CREDIT CARD via
http://www.bookitfaster.com


For more information, visit: http://www.oneworldactors.com


ONE WORLD PRODUCTIONS Association
354 bis rue de Vaugirard
75015 Paris France


ONE YEAR MEMBERSHIP: 229 Euros (Free Entrance for you and 1 guest +
reductions on all OWAP activities)


For details of Student membership discounts, volunteer assistantship
program and corporate training " Language and Communication through
Theatre " program: Call 01.48.28.00.46


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LIVE OVERSEAS CONFERENCE 2003
MARCH 9-12, 2003, DELRAY BEACH, FL


We’ve invited 21 top-level speakers from around the planet, including
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be there speaking about France, of course!) as well as a panel of the
world’s leading privacy experts, legal advisors, money managers, and
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Reserve your place or for more information, phone (561) 243-6276 or
(800) 926-6575, E-mail: mailto:tours@internationalliving.com Website:
http://www.ildiscoverytours.com/conf/ros0303/


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** AMERICAN ORGANIZATIONS IN PARIS


I am an American (and French) as well who moved to Paris three years
ago. Would you have any suggestions how I can get involved in the
American community (i.e. clubs and organisations). Keith R.


Keith,


There are lots of organizations to join to meet the American
Community and lots of events to get you in circulation. The following
is an abbreviated list provided by the "Insider Guide to Working and
Living in France: The Ins and Outs," by Rose Marie Burke
(http://www.insiderparisguides.com/workandlive/index.html)


ENGLISH-SPEAKING ORGANIZATIONS


There are scores of English-speaking organizations in France. They
have been established by people who saw a need in the community and
did something about it. Take advantage of all the resources these
groups offer. Why reinvent the wheel?


Most of these groups operate as nonprofit associations under French
law. Associations in France, which operate for their members, run
under strict rules. Their ability to raise funds is limited. That’s
why all of these associations will be asking you to join as a member,
and perhaps as a volunteer as well! Only members can take advantage
of their services. This is all quite normal, but the membership fees
do add up. I finally shelled out for a membership to the American
Library after I bought a hardcover English-language book for 38
Euros. That was half a year’s membership at the libr
ary! Now I
consider membership there a bargain.


A.
ALUMNI GROUPS


Berkeley Club France, Boston University Alumni Association of France,
Harvard Business School Club of France, Harvard Club of France, Notre
Dame Alumni Club of France, PAN (Paris Alumni Network), Princeton
Alumni Association of France, Stanford Club of France, Wellesley Club
of France, Yale Club of Paris


B. CHARITABLE GROUPS


American Aid Society, English Language Library for the Blind, Foch
Foundation at Hospital Foch, Junior Service League of Paris, Lions
Club International, American Club of Paris, Les Arts George V,
Democrats Abroad France, France-Amérique, France-Etats-Unis, The
International Association of American Minorities, The Mona Bismarck
Foundation, Paris Choral Society, The Paris Garden Guild, Republicans
Abroad France


D. HEALTH AND EDUCATIONAL GROUPS


American Library of Paris, Fondation des Etats-Unis, Franco-American
Commission for Educational Exchange (Fulbright Program),
Franco-American Volunteer Association for the Mentally Retarded
(FAVA), Health Network International, Columbia University in Paris,
WICE


E. SOCIAL AND SUPPORT GROUPS


Alcoholics Anonymous (AA), American Women’s Group in Paris (AWG),
Association of Americans Resident Overseas (AARO), Association of
American Wives of Europeans (AAWE), Canadian Women’s Group, FACTS,
International Counseling Service, La Leche League France, Message
Mother Support Group, Sisters: An Association of African American
Women in France


F. RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONSCHURCHES


Adath Shalom, American Cathedral, American Church, Crossroads
International Church, St. j2999eph’s Church


G. BUSINESS GROUPS


American Chamber of Commerce in France, Paris Professional Women’s
Network, PSA France, The Travellers


H. VETERANS GROUPS


American Legion Paris Post 1, American Overseas Memorial Day
Association, Comité La Fayette, Daughters of the American Revolution,
Fondation du Memorial de l’Escadrille Lafayette, La Société des
Quarante Hommes et Huit Chevaux (Forty and Eight), Society of the
Cincinnati, Sons of the American Revolution, United Service
Organizations, Veterans of Foreign Wars of the U.S. Poste No. 605,
The California Club, Franco-American Institute


EDITOR’S NOTE: The list is too exhaustive to note all contact
information. The guide will be very use for a complete listing of all
contact information, as well as other useful information about
working and living in France. For more information about this
electronic Insider Paris Guide, visit
http://www.insiderparisguides.com/workandlive/index.html


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


TO READ MORE: Go to /parlerparis/


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


HAVE A SPECIAL MESSAGE? WANT TO EXCHANGE LINKS?


If you would like to have your message read by the subscribers of the
Parler Paris Nouvellettre®, please e-mail me at:
paris@internationalliving.com


If you have links about Paris or France and would like reciprocal
links, please e-mail me at: france@internationalliving.com


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e-letter? Forward it to your friend, relative, or associate!


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