Seeing Paris Through New Eyes

PARLER PARIS: SEEING PARIS THROUGH NEW EYES


August 12, 2002


*** FROM ONE END OF PARIS TO THE OTHER IN AN AFTERNOON


Every now and then when a friend comes to visit who hasn’t been to
Paris before, the opportunity arises to don my tour guide hat and hit
the streets, camera in hand with a plotted itinerary.


This past weekend was just such an occasion–and with each "walking
tour of the city," I see a Paris through new eyes and become once
again enthralled with its beauty and profundity as if I were a
first-timer myself.


My friend remarked, "I need a another day or two to see more of the
city," and I realized why I moved to Paris to begin with. Being able
to spend a few days–or a few weeks–in Paris wasn’t enough. Now,
after a few years, it still isn’t enough.


The city is wildly profound and intriguing. Each day, there is
something new to learn. Each day there is something new to see. Each
day, there is something new to experience. It’s easy to feel like a
perpetual tourist, no matter how many times you cross the Pont des
Arts or stroll up the Champs-Elysées.


If you scroll down further, you’ll find a step-by-step description of
a one-afternoon walking tour that takes you from one end of the city
to the other. This tour–if your feet hold out–manages to cover an
amazing amount of sights. Of course, you may spend as little or as
much time as you like in each destination, just as we did.


Small footnote: August 15th is the celebration of the birth of
Napolean Bonaparte (1769), emperor of France 1804 to 1815 and son of
a poor Corsican lawyer, who adopted this day as his birthday to
coincide with the Catholic Feast of the Assumption. It is also a
national holiday. Most stores and businesses close on public
holidays, but a majority of museums, monuments, and restaurants
remain open, or only close on certain holidays. Of course, in August,
nothing is normal, so be sure to call ahead before heading out and
finding your favorite spot closed.


A la prochaine fois,


Adrian


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Parler Paris
/parlerparis/
Written and Edited by Adrian Leeds


Published by International Living
http://www.internationalliving.com
france@internationalliving.com


Issue Number 51, August 12, 2002


In this issue:


*** Talk it Up in French 4 Times a Week
*** Survive in France on a New and Improved Level of French
*** Reserve for Dinner Rollin’ Down the River with Soul
*** Book Your Seat at the Conference Before it’s Too Late
*** Get Great Weather and Spend Less Than in Provence
*** Walk Up the Spine of Paris in One Afternoon
*** Girl Talk: About Great Paris Doctors
*** Need Help Becoming a Homeowner in Paris?


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** PARIS MOST POPULAR CONVERSATION GROUP NOW MEETS 4 TIMES A WEEK


Parler Parlor French/English Conversation Group in Paris is now
celebrating four years bringing together 50 nationalities to practice
speaking French and English.


A new afternoon session has been added on Wednesdays and a new Left
Bank location, too!


Each session at Parler Parlor allows you to practice speaking 45
minutes in French, 45 minutes in English. It’s a great opportunity to
make friends, discuss interesting topics, and learn about other
cultures.


Attendees are divided into groups of six to eight, each in its own
acoustically sound private room. This allows everyone to progress in
understanding and speaking, naturally and easily.


Parler Parlor is open all summer long (except closed on August 15th
for "Assomption," a national holiday). Beginning September 11th, the
group will add another weekly session mid-afternoon on Wednesdays and
moving its Saturday sessions to a new location on the Left Bank, next
door to the International Living pied-à-terre on rue Mazarine.


Anglophones and renewing members receive a 10% discount. Paris Key
Club Members may take advantage of a one-month membership FREE, a $50
value.


Watch this newsletter for information about the annual La Rentrée
Party Saturday, September 21, open to everyone.


SUMMER SCHEDULE TILL SEPTEMBER 7TH:


COPROM LANGUES, 14 rue Lafayette, 4th Floor, 9th arrondissement
Métro Chaussée d’Antin, Opéra, RER A Auber
Tuesdays 6:30 to 8 p.m., Thursdays 6:30 to 8 p.m.,
Saturdays 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.


BEGINNING SEPTEM
BER 10TH:


COPROM LANGUES, 14 rue La Fayette, 4th Floor, 9th arron
dissement
Métro Chaussée d’Antin, Opéra, RER A Auber
Tuesdays 6:30 to 8 p.m., Thursdays 6:30 to 8 p.m.


EUROCENTRES, 13 passage Dauphine, 6th arrondissement
Métro Odéon, Saint-Michel
Wednesdays 2 p.m. to 3:30 p.m., Saturdays 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.


* Both language schools offer courses in French for those who need
more structured instruction in basics and grammar.


For more information, visit http://www.parlerparlor.com or email:
mailto:info@parlerparlor.com or call: Elisabeth Crochard: tel. 01 44
19 76 61 or Adrian Leeds: tel. 01 40 27 97 59.


*** BRUSH-UP ON YOUR FRENCH BEFORE YOU COME FOR CONVERSATION


Co-coordinator of the popular French-English Conversation Group and
ex-Berlitz director, Elisabeth Crochard, will have you speaking in no
time at the 9-hour SURVIVAL FRENCH course–two days prior to the
Working and Living in France Conference.


Master the basics–learn the greetings, how to order your croissant,
ask for the check, the price of an item, sizes, colors, numbers,
asking for the time and all the key questions: who, what, where,
when, how…the use of the 10 basic verbs and where the Musée d’Orsay
is located. Also, become skilled at exchanging pleasantries with the
French–learning about the social protocols most often misunderstood
by tourists.


OCTOBER 16 and 17, 2002 at Coprom Langues, 14 rue Lafayette, 9th 9:30
a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. (both days)


$195 Conference participant
$245 Non-Conference participant


For more information, visit the site at:
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/survivalfrench.html


* * * * * ADVERTISEMENT * * * * *


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AND MORE


Get up-to-the-minute insider information on Paris:


* Discover the LITTLE-KNOWN corners of Paris you never knew
existed…


* Learn the ins and outs of maneuvering the French legal,
bureaucratic, and tax systems…


* Experience Paris as though you lived there EVERY DAY…


* Get the insider’s take on WORKING AND LIVING in Paris…


No trip to the bookstore, no shipping to pay:
http://www.insiderparisguides.com


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** MAKE YOUR DINNER RESERVATIONS…


* AT AN AUTHENTIC BRASSERIE WITH A SOUL, A STYLE, AND A HISTORY


CHEZ JENNY


At the colonial exhibition in 1930, Robert Jenny had a kiosk where he
sold produce from his region: salt-pickled cabbage choucroute,
sausages and beer. Appreciating Parisian life and noting that the
fine Alsatian products attracted the Parisians, this native of
Strasbourg sought to set up business in the capital. He found just
the right place not far from the place de la République, at number 39
boulevard du Temple. This was the hall where the former Victor ball
was held. Did he know that this address had once been that of a
Russian restaurant in 1906, then a Belgian restaurant in 1914.


The quarter was lively, even though it no longer deserved the
reputation of "Crime Boulevard" that it had had in the 18th century,
when the plays billed at the many theaters in the area mainly drew
inspiration from the items in the news.


* DINNER AT CHEZ JENNY!


Friday, October 18th, 7:30 p.m.


Open to Working and Living in France Conference participants and
their guests. Read more at
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/dinner.html


* FOR A CRUISE ON THE SEINE


Sunday, October 20th, 9 p.m.


Take part in the Working and Living in France Conference and take the
cruise–Set off from the Allée des Cygnes for a two-hour cruise with
an excellent three-course gourmet dinner, apéritif, wine, coffee and
water traveling up the river Seine as far as the new Bibliotèque
Nationale de Paris and back. The cruise, three-course meal, all
drinks, taxes, tips and transportation to and from the
Paris-République Holiday Inn is included.


To see the special menu or for more information, visit the site at:
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/dinner.html


The dinner cruise on the Seine is not included in the conference
price. Sign up yourself and your guests.


* If you are not taking part in the Conference and still wish to join
us on this cruise, you can!

/> *** BOOK YOUR SEAT AT THE WORKING AND LIVING IN FRANCE CONFERENCE NOW
TO SAVE $100

"2" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">
Making the move to France has never been easier–with the experts to
help you. Don’t miss these special power-packed four days in Paris at
the:


WORKING AND LIVING IN FRANCE CONFERENCE
Sponsored by International Living


Paris, France October 18 – 21, 2002
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/index.html


The line-up for the conference includes seminars, tours, discussions,
dinners, cocktails–with well-known Paris-based experts in the fields
of:


Obtaining the Right to Be in France
Making the Move Dealing with Technology
Finding Employment
Starting a Business
Finding Housing and Owning Property
Setting Up Your Finances
Health Care and Insurance
Learning the Language
Educating the Kids
Bridging the Cultural Differences
Finding Properties for Sale and Rent in Paris


* See the full line-up of presenters at:
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/presentersbios.html


* Stay at luxury hotels at Place de la République, or in your own
Paris apartment:
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/accommodations.html


* Have cocktails and dinner at Chez Jenny "An authentic Brasserie
with a soul, a style and a history." See the complete information at:
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/dinner.html


* Take the Survival French Course by Marie-Elisabeth Crochard:
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/survivalfrench.html


* PLUS, take an amazing 4-hour tour around Paris, winding in and out
of the prettiest streets to illustrate residential areas that have
the most appeal. All 20 arrondissements will be covered, and while
author of "Around and About Paris," historian and Paris expert,
Thirza Vallois, describes the history and personalities of each:
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/grandtour.html


Read Thirza Vallois’ article about the 20 arrondissements of Paris
here: /parlerparis/liveinfrance/arrondissements.html


* Reserve by August 15th, save $100–AND GET A FREE GUIDE!


SPECIAL NOTE: International Living Lifetime Members and Paris Key
Club Members are entitled to the early reservation price of $695 at
any time and the FREE "Insider Guide to Working and Living in
France."


To register or for more information, contact:


In the U.S. or Canada, Barbara Perriello, Agora Travel; Telephone.
1-800-926-6575 or 1-561-243-6276; e-mail:
mailto:tours@internationalliving.comsubject=WorkingLivingConference


In France, Schuyler Hoffman, Assistant Director International Living
Paris Office; Telephone +33 (0) 1 40 27 97 59; e-mail:
mailto:france@internationalliving.comsubject=WorkingLivingConference


*** MORE AFFORDABLE THAN PROVENCE AND WORTH A VISIT!


October 22-27, 2002


If you would like to experience the best of European country living
without spending a king’s ransom, this tour is for you. You’ll
discover how affordable second homes are in the French Midi-a region
noted for its centuries’ old tradition of good living. Plus, you may
find the cottage or maison of your dreams to be one the most
profitable investments of your lifetime.


Here’s a glimpse:


* Arrive in Montpellier, visit the city of Nezignan L’Evêque, drive
through several picturesque villages like St. Jean de Vedas, Gignac,
and Montagnac.


* Stay at l’Hostellerie St. Alban, enjoy cocktails with Val MacQueen,
an expatriate who lives in the region and is a contributing editor to
International Living.


* Take note during a presentation by Rob Thorne, manager rentals of
foreign-owned properties ranging from village houses to chateaux.
Visit Pezenas’ Ancient Quarter and Meze, a seaside village renowned
for its seafood and vast oyster beds.


* Over apéritifs and lunch at a restaurant on the harbor, learn the
history of the Languedoc and the Occitans from Madame Christine
Combet, who will also touch on the drama of another group of local
inhabitants, the Cathars.


* Visit Villeneuvette, a private walled village dating from medieval
times and return to Nezignan L’Evêque for coffee with local real
estate agents where you’ll have ample time to talk with them, review
their listings and photos of properties, and make appointments for
personal showings.


* At Lecaylar, you’ll explore the ruins of a medieval castle, then
head to St. Guilhem le desert, a village of melting beauty and visit
Devil’s Bridge, an 11th Century Romanesque bridge in Saint Etiene
d’Issensac.


* Continue on to Marseillan, of bustling atmosphere, good shopping
and quaint little harbor adjoining Marseillan Plage with old
properties and new developments where you can arrange to look at
properties or explore the quaint town of Marseillan.


* Starting from Sète, an island and an ancient and high tonnage port,

trading mainly with North Africa, then visit nearby Noilly Prat, the
Bacardi-owned vermouth distillery and the Abbaye Valmagne, an almost
perfectly preserved 12th Century Cisternian abbey, where we will have
dinner.


* Shop at the market in Pezenas, home of one of France’s oldest
markets, in business since it was given permission to open by the
king in 1245 and wind down the journey with a boat ride along the
Canal du Midi, an internationally-acknowledged engineering marvel.


For all the details, visit:
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/languedoctour.html


To register or for more information:


Barbara Perriello, Agora Travel
Phone: 1-800-926-6575
or 1-561-243-6276
Email mailto:tours@internationalliving.com


*** VISIT THE BACKBONE OF PARIS IN ONE AFTERNOON
— Adrian Leeds


From One End of the City to the Other in Five Hours


August 11, 2002


Starting in Le Marais from the Place des Vosges, window shop (or
really shop!) in the chic boutiques along rue des Francs Bourgeois
until it becomes rue Rambuteau and continue until you reach the
controversial, colorful contemporary structure of Le Centre Nationale
d’Art et de Culture Georges Pompidou. If you don’t have time for a
full visit to the museum, at least enter for a taste of all it has to
offer–the bookstore, café, boutique and enjoy the displays in the
lobby.


At the south end of the building is a favorite spot of mine–the Igor
Stravinsky Fountain, a 1983 collaborative work by Niki de
Saint-Phalle and Jean Tinguely inspired by the composer’s music–its
quirky, kinetic, and colorful sculpture playfully squirts water in
various directions.


Circle around Eglise Saint-Merri to rue de Rivoli for a beautiful
view of the Hôtel de Ville (city hall) to your left and Tour
Saint-Jacques to your right, the last remaining tower of an old
church that stood at the beginning of the long, steep, and straight
rue Saint-Jacques, the old Roman road linking Paris to the south.


Head south at any street till you arrive at the quai de la
Mégisserie, walk westward until you arrive at Pont Neuf (the "New
Bridge" that is 475 years old) and La Samaritaine, one of Paris’ most
important department stores, a 1928 art nouveau design by Henri
Sauvage, with a great 360 degree view of the city from its 9th floor
terrace.


If you continue westward along the river side, you’ll have view of
the Ile de la Cité, La Seine and the temporary installation of "Paris
Plage" plus have an opportunity to shop "les bookinistes," the book
sellers lining the quais. If you walk along the north side of the
street, visit the nurseries and pet shops to see the prettiest
flowers and cuddliest puppies.


Arrive at rue de l’Admiral de Coligny and see Eglise Saint-Germain
l’Auxerrois on your right and Le Louvre on the left. Enter the
eastern courtyard of Le Louvre ("Cour Carré") and walk straight
through it to the "Cour Napoleon" to see the stunning Pyramid
entrance and adjacent reflector pools designed by I.M. Pei.


If the line to enter Le Louvre (only because of security) is too long
a wait, you may enter from the Carrousel du Louve on rue de Rivoli
via the underground shopping center, but entering through the Pyramid
is a visual experience worth a stop.


Of course, spend as much time as you like visiting the Louvre and all
it has to offer–including an excellent book store/boutique, the food
court and all the shops in the Carrousel du Louvre. For a serious
visit of Le Louvre, you will need several days, but if you start
there after 3 p.m. or on Sundays, the entrance fee is reduced.


After your visit, continue westward through the Jardin des Tuileries.
All summer long, there is an amusement park/fair you can enjoy,
including some rather dare-devil rides and a Ferris wheel that for 5
Euro you can circle three times and have as beautiful a view of the
city as from the top of La Samaritaine. Watch out, though–the
gondolas have no doors and no seat belts, so you ride at your own
risk.


The gardens are flower-filled this time of year and in good weather,
there will be sun-soakers in the reclining chairs around the ponds
and shade seekers in the cafés under the trees. Head straight through
the Tuileries to Place de la Concorde where the fountains have been
newly repainted and regilded.


Enjoy the vantage point where Eglise Sainte Marie Madeleine and
l’Assemblée Nationale mirror one another north to south and the
monuments are lined up in a row east to west from the Carrousel du
Louvre to the l’Odélisque at Place de la Concorde, on to L’Arc de
Triomphe and beyond to l’Arche de la Défense. The Tour Eiffel looms
to the southwest in elegant stature.


While strolling up the Champs-Elysées you’ll pass both the Petit
Palais and the Grand Palais, with their domes of iron and glass built
for the 1900 World’s Fair, before coming to Rond Point. The flower
and shrub-planted sloped planes behind each of the six fountains here
change with each
season and each year, the designs are totally
different.


Alo
ng the Champs-Elysées, the shops are in continuous renovation and
flux. Many are now under construction to be bigger, more beautiful
and ultimately, more profitable. A hot spot shop not to miss:
Sephora.


There is a constant stream of tourists all times of year here and the
cafés are the most expensive…but it’s still THE Champs-Elysées, the
avenue Paris claims as the most beautiful in the world.


If your legs will still take you to the top where the Arc de Triomphe
radiates its 12 avenues (L’Etoile), stop for one last photo–it’s the
most beloved "photo op" in the city!


*** CONVERSATION ABOUT DOCTORS IN PARIS–


Start a conversation with other readers about Paris! See the newest
conversation–about great doctors in Paris. I have my favorite–a
British woman who has solved more medical problems than "I have hairs
on my head"–soon to open her own practice.


Click here: http://www.agora-inc.com/forums/index.cfm?cfapp=15


Then click on "Doctors in Paris" to read about how to contact Dr.
Julia Bache and of course, everyone else’s comments.


To start a new conversation, click on "New Thread."


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* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** PARIS OWNERS CONSULTATION SERVICE


The real estate system in France is very different from that of other
countries. The International Living Paris Office offers consulting
services to assist you with every aspect of renting or buying an
apartment.


We can create a package for as much or as little assistance as you
need. From merely locating an apartment to helping you set up
utilities or do a renovation, we can help.


To inquire about our services and fees, please contact Schuyler
Hoffman at propertyinsider@internationalliving.com


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


TO JOIN THE PARIS KEY CLUB:


If you are not a member of the Paris Key Club, and would like to be,
click here for more information:
http://www.agora-inc.com/reports/PKC/WPKCC523/


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


TO READ MORE:


Go to /parlerparis/


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


HAVE A SPECIAL MESSAGE? WANT TO EXCHANGE LINKS?


If you would like to have your message read by the subscribers of the
Parler Paris Nouvellettre®, please e-mail me at
mailto:paris@internationalliving.com


If you have links about Paris or France and would like reciprocal
links, please e-mail me at mailto:france@internationalliving.com


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Know someone who would be interested in the opportunities in this
e-letter? Forward it to your friend, relative, or associate!


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


TO RECEIVE THIS E-LETTER REGULARLY:


If you’re not a regular reader of this e-letter, and would like to
be, simply enter your e-mail address here (it’s free):
http://www.internationalliving.com/signup.cfm


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Copyright 2002 Agora Ireland Publishing & Services Ltd.

*******
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