Stairway to Beaujolais

 
Tonight, most of France will be drinking Beaujolais Nouveau. Aficionados of the vintage have been waiting with ‘baited breath’ for a taste of the fresh young wine. In honor of this special occasion, our sights are focused on the wine and the region where the grapes are grown, harvested and fermented, creating one of France’s biggest marketing successes!
Paris stairwells also take spotlight in today’s issue of FPI, thanks to my 17th-century staircase undergoing massive renovation after more than 20 years of neglect (my guess). Elevator-less buildings are of a major concern to both apartment-dwellers, owners and vacation apartment-renters…as you might not want to live too high without at least one elevator or too low for lack of light and security. Learn more about Paris stairs and how to maneuver your way up, down and around them when it comes to choosing a property to purchase.
Remember, there will be no issue of FPI next week on Thanksgiving Day, November 27th, so that we can all enjoy a grand meal with our families and friends. Then, we’ll be back the following week and throughout the rest of the year.
There’s lots of great information and fun articles to read today…so pour yourself a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau and dream about your future home in France, where pleasures abound.
A bientt and Happy Thanksgiving!
 

Adrian Leeds
Editor, French Property Insider
Email: [email protected]

P.S. Interest rates are coming down! French property prices are coming down! And the dollar is strengthening. Now is the time to consider your purchase in France!
P.P.S. Stay tuned for information on our next Living and Investing in France Real Estate Conference mid March 2009 in New Orleans!

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Volume VI, Issue 47, November 20, 2008
In this issue:
* Another November Another New Nouveau
* There’s More to Beaujolais Than Wine
* Don’t Overlook Beaujolais for Property Investment
* How to Prepare for Paris’ Paliers
* Paris Life withouth an Elevator
* French Property Fractional Offerings: Updated List
* Today’s Currency Update from Moneycorp
* Hot Property Picks: Beautiful, Bountiful Beaujolais
* December’s Notaire Property Auctions Almost Here
* French Property Going Green
* Hot New Leaseback: SAINT HENRI
* French Property Mortgage Assistance
* Parler Paris Apartments — Les Portes de Notre Dame
* Parler Paris Aprs-Midi: When We Meet Next
* Managing Your FPI Subscription

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Le Beaujolais Nouveau est Arriv!
By Adrian Leeds
An Excerpt from Parler Paris…http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Tomorrow [today] is the third Thursday in November. In France that means a celebration of “Beaujolais Nouveau.”
“Beaujolais Nouveau is a red wine made from Gamay grapes produced in the Beaujolais region of France.” What makes it ‘new’ is that it’s fermented for just a few weeks (6 to 8). Producers market it quite brilliantly (particularly Georges Duboeuf) to race to get the first bottles of the vintage to the public and everyone races to be the first to drink it.
It’s a ‘lightweight’ purple-pink wine that has very little tannin and is dominated by fruity flavors. It’s best chilled at approximately 13C (55F). I personally think it’s one of France’s least appealing wines and critics often say it’s simple and immature. One critic has likened it to “eating cookie dough.”
I’m not sure I’d go as far as that, but I must agree, the fuss is a little much, if not a lot of fun! Almost 50 million liters are produced each year, accounting for about one-half of the region’s total output, and about one-half of that is exported. Guess who drinks the most? Germany, Japan and the U.S.
Le Beaujolais nouveau est arriv! Mark your calendar for events all over Paris and in the U.S.
Maybe you’d like to visit the region itself and celebrate in the place where Beaujolais Nouveau is born? Visit http://www.beaujolais.com/eng/page.htm for information.
In Paris, you can count on all the “Bistrots Vins” to be celebrating. Go to: http://fr.nomao.com/search?q=beaujolais+nouveau for more than 40 locations in Paris where you can imbibe.
My favorite is the “Bistrot Mlac,” in the eleventh arrondissement between Place de la Bastille and Place de la Rpublique at 42, rue Lon Frot. The owner, Jacques Mlac, with his enormous handlebar moustache, is a sort of “Cyrano de Bergerac” from the town of Bozouls in the Aveyron. Well prepared Aveyronnais dishes accompany his excellent selection of wines and nothing compares to Jacques’ jovial atmosphere he’s most proud of…but be prepared during Beaujolais Nouveau to barely get a taste of his best local fare nor barely a space in the SRO atmosphere of this multi-dining-roomed corner in working-class Paris.
Editor’s Note: In response to this newsletter, an email was sent from Pamela Wittman to Pierre Despaux:
Bonjour Pierre,
As a Compagnon du Beaujolais, you may be in a good position to alert
the editor of this newsletter that her Beaujolais Nouveau figures are
wrong: Beaujolais Nouveau does not represent half of what the region
produces, but a third, as of last year. It’s absolutely never been
half. This number is actually reducing recently, probably more
drastically this year, particluarly in the US.
This type of erroneous information is one of the reasons consumers
don’t respect the region of Beaujolais as a serious wine producing
region and it is sad that people who have a public voice don’t seek
the proper information before going live. Adrian does cite
www.beaujolais.com as a source of information for travel to
Beaujolais, and the statistics for Nouveau are also available on this
site.
I hope this group will update their information for their next
newsletter, maybe even send an errata ASAP.
Best, Pamela
Response by Adrian Leeds: Incorrect information obtained at www.wikipedia.org.

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Beaujolais, More than Just Wine
Compiled from France Monthly Magazine http://www.francemonthly.com

The Beaujolais region was made famous for its association with the wine of the same name, a wine that is world-renowned thanks to a savvy marketing campaign. Unfortunately, few travelers are curious enough to cross the river Sane to discover this region. Located west of an area that stretches from south of the city of Mcon to that of Villefranche-sur-Sane, close to northern Lyon, this well-traveled region is often forgotten by tourists. Many still dont realize how verdant and hilly it is, how full of flowers its little villages are, not to mention how interesting its geological and architectural riches are. There are so many things to discover if you just take the time to wander up and down the small secondary roads of the Beaujolais region.
Who knows that Beaujolais means Belle Montagne, or Beautiful Mountain? Who knows that the region also wears its name so well? This little corner of France is not very big, only about 32 miles long from north to south, and 19 miles from east to west, but how many treasures this area holds! The forest area is called Green Beaujolais; the vineyards represent the Red Beaujolais; Blue Beaujolais fits tightly around the Sane Valley and Villefranche-sur-Sane, its regional capital; and further south, you will find the Beaujolais of Golden Stones that is probably the most beautiful, with imposing castles and small medieval villages of earth-yellow stone houses that take on a golden hue when the sun hits them.
Around the year 950, the first lords of Beaujeu, Berard and his wife Vandalmonde, had the castle of Pierre Aige built at the very top of it, while the village spread at its foot. Its strategic position was undeniable, as it dominated the entire valley of Ardires as well as the road built in the time of the Romans which was the only point of access for all travelerswhether peace-loving or not. Today, the castle is long gone and the mountain seems to have forever taken the little town of Beaujeu under its protection.
In the 12th century, Guichard III, another lord of Beaujeu, was dealt a terrible blow when his beloved young son drowned. Legend has it that the parents then promised to build a church at the very spot where the body of their child had been found. Today, the St Nicolas church, consecrated in 1132 by Pope Innocent II, still stands as a reminder both of the painful tragedy that took place there and of the importance that the town itself once had. It is a charming little Roman style church, with a rich interior decoration that comes as a surprising contrast to its austere exterior.
Medieval France belonged to lords always worried about both maintaining their independence from the King and increasing their land holdings to gain more power over the neighboring lords. To this end, they didnt hesitate to use any means necessary, whether arranged marriages, or a little warfare when negotiations failed. Edouard II of Beaujeu was a belligerent man, always provoking brawls and fights, and insulting the police when given the chance.
All this led him to a series of very costly trials. He was also an avid collector of pretty things, diamonds in particular. He spent his money freely and was often visited by bailiffs. Eventually, he became a destitute and hunted man, and had to beg his cousin and neighbor, Lord Louis II of Bourbon, to come to his rescue. This was too good and easy an opportunity for Louis II to pass up, and
he gladly accepted. In exchange for his help, Edouard II agreed, much to
the dismay of his heirs, to bequeath the Beaujolais region to his benefactor. And so it was that, in 1400, Beaujolais lost its independence and was acquired by the Bourbon dynasty, from which many Kings of France were born.
 

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Beaujolais Worth Considering for Property Investment

From Homes Overseas http://www.homesoverseas.co.uk

 
Some 30 kilometres north of Lyon, the Beaujolais area has been largely overlooked by foreign house hunters, which is surprising given the comparatively low property prices and the fact that the area is easily accessible (fly direct to Lyon and pick up a rental car, and the delights of this hidden gem are 40 minutes away; from Paris, hop on the high-speed TGV train and reach Lyon in just under two hours).
Part of the Rhne-Alpes region, bordering Burgundy to the north and the Loire to the west, Beaujolais is essentially green, hilly, and for the most part, covered in vines of ever-changing hues. The lack of overseas homeowners also makes it ideal for anyone seeking that authentically French experience.
There are three distinct areas, interspersed with medieval chteaux and churches. At the southernmost tip the Golden Stone (Pierres Dores) sector takes its name from the local ferrous stone, and is reminiscent of Tuscany. Carefully renovated character properties ooze cachet and make this location highly sought-after. According to property search agents, Lyon-based families are flocking here in increasing numbers, sending house prices upwards. Particularly picturesque are the medieval hilltop village of Oingt, Jarnioux (famous for its fairy tale chteau), and Bagnols, with its stunning 13th century chteau-cum-luxury hotel.
To the north lies the Beaujolais appellation, home of light, fruity, easy drinking wines. Further north are the villages producing top Beaujolais crus such as Julinas, Morgon and Moulin Vent.
Head west and the countryside changes from vines to pines. In the Beaujolais Vert the conifer is king. Dubbed Little Switzerland by the locals, Green Beaujolais has an alpine feel and, as there are no major tourist attractions, bus loads of visitors are rare. Sweeping views across pine-clad hillsides can be admired in peace and the chocolate- box charm of the Pierres Dores remains relatively undisturbed, even in peak holiday season.
People who live in the Beaujolais appreciate its convenient location.  Alpine ski resorts are a couple of hours away by car, or you can drive to Switzerland in the same time. Its easy to live in the countryside and pop into Lyon when you need a city fix.
Real estate in Beaujolais is as varied as the landscape. In the south, the button-cuteness of the Golden Stone villages and proximity to Lyon mean buyers should allow 350,000 for a renovated, two-bedroom holiday home with a small garden. Wine growers properties are attractive, but theyre large homes that usually need some renovation. A budget for 280,000 to 340,000 and factor in the cost of the work, too advises one agent.
To the north, homes in the crus area are built in a more traditional colored stone. Estimate that a renovated three- to four-bedroom house with large garden will cost 325,000 to 450,000 depending on size, location, amount of land and quality of renovation. Manor houses and large family homes are priced from around 460,000. In the Beaujolais Vert, the least populated part, prices are at their most reasonable. Houses with land can be found from 160,000 and homes in need of total renovation will sell for even less, ideal for buyers who want accessibly-priced property, with outbuildings for conversion and a substantial amount of land….
Editor’s Note: To read the full article, please visit http://www.homesoverseas.co.uk/articles  
 

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Stepping Up to the Paris “Palier”
By Adrian Leeds

 
There are 70 steps up to my Marais apartment. I counted them the first time climbing them when visiting the apartment in the summer of 1997 before becoming its inhabitant. The stairs date back to the 17th- century and have a particular formation that tells tales of its former life.
The building was once a “htel particulier” (or townhouse), where the wealthy, aristocratic French lived when visiting Paris from their chteaux in the countryside. The women had wide skirts, so the stairs are wide to accommodate them, and the rise of the stair is short, so the climb is easier. Still, with each level, the turn of the stairwell is different.
From ground level “0” (“Rez-de-Chause”) off the courtyard where the horses and carriages were kept, the stairs turn at right angles twice to arrive at Level “1” (“Premier tage”). This level housed the reception rooms and from this point, the stairs circle up two-thirds of the way, then turn a sharp right to the “palier” (landing) of Level “2” (“Deuxime tage”) where the bedrooms (“chambres”) existed. From this point, the stairs narrow sharply and take again two sharp turns, leading to Level “3” (“Troisime tage”) where the servants lived. This is where my apartment is — once made up of many little rooms, now 70 square meters, all overlooking the street, with smaller windows than the two levels below me.
The American lifestyle I was used to consisted of one flight of stairs in our two-story Los Angeles home, and previously in our apartment, like most, had elevators. So many stairs were not part of my every day
life, with the exception o
f attending “Step Reebok” classes that were invented to simulate the healthy advantages of using steps!
For all the years of living up 70 stairs, I’ve had a love-hate relationship with them. People visiting the apartment have often remarked about why we haven’t added an elevator, which many buildings have done, in spite of the big expense.
The configuration of the steps don’t allow for an elevator, plus their 17th-century character is not something any of us would want to destroy. Plus, the stairs have always offered clear advantages and disadvantages, which I’ve come to see now as “blessings in disguise.” Thanks to the stairs, I’ve developed nice muscles in my arms and legs, better shaped ‘buns’ and I get a good natural cardiovascular work-out. I’ve never been healthier, and I have the 70 stairs to thank.
When looking to purchase an apartment in Paris, stairs are a big concern. If you
purchase an apartment beyond the third floor without an elevator, renters may not be very willing to climb them. If the apartment is too low, it may lack light, particularly if the windows overlook a narrow street or courtyard. If the apartment is on a high level with an elevator, and the elevator is malfunctioning, everyone may suffer, including your rental returns! If it appears the homeowners association is willing to install an elevator, expect a big assessment and a battle from the owners on the lower levels who don’t want to pay for an asset they don’t think they will use or need! (Foolish on their part — as it ALWAYS increases the value of the property!) Either way, consideration of the stairways are an important aspect when making an important property purchase decision, particularly in Paris in older buildings that lack elevators.
The condition of the stairwell has been abominable all the years I’ve lived in the building. As a result of climbing them many times a day disgusted by the dirt and peeling paint, I spearheaded a movement to have them renovated. As it turned out, the owners in the other three buildings on the courtyard were in agreement for their own dilapidated stairwells and by a vote, it was decided to proceed to renovate them.
It was an expensive endeavor and the assessment was painful to bear, but the improvement to the property well worth it. There is no question that its condition adds value to the property — any appraiser will agree with this.
For the last two months, the workers have been repairing the cracks, wallpapering with a special cloth, preparing to repaint and then refinish the ancient wood stairs. Climbing and descending has become an obstacle course, but never mind — the finished product is sure to please us all.
Over the years, I’ve learned how to maneuver the stairs so that they have become a pleasure rather than a burden. These can be taken as helpful hints to anyone who must climb more than one flight:
1. Never leave the apartment without checking to make sure you have everything
you need. If you get to the bottom of the stairs and realize you’ve forgotten your umbrella, you may not be so thrilled to climb them again and end up wet!
2. If you have a large mailbox on the ground level, you can use it to house a few items you’ve purchased or have been carrying so that you won’t have to climb the stairs just to deposit them at home.
3. Simply roll heavy suitcases up (backward) and you can roll them down (forward), one step at a time. It takes time, but it’s not a weighty burden. Just be sure you always have rolling bags!
4. Have your groceries delivered (most of the grocery stores will do this for a minimum spent or a small fee).
5. If you don’t have them delivered, then never buy too many at a time. Instead
of bottled water, buy a filtered carafe and never carry those heavy bottles up again.
6. OR buy a good grocery cart — the best has three wheels on either side that ‘jump’ the steps easily. The one I have has been a life- saver. (I first saw these in Venice where going up and down the bridges over the canals could have been a nightmare for shoppers, but wasn’t!…made by Rolser, see http://www.rolser.co.uk for more information.)
7. Never run up or down your stairs. Never. That is unless you don’t care about killing yourself. If your stairs are as highly polished as mine, then you could easily do exactly that if you take them too quickly.
8. Use the time you spend on the stairs to breath deeply and relax, think about pleasant things and reflect on your wonderful life in France. And don’t forget to thank the stairs for keeping you slim, trim, and healthy.

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Elevator-Less in France
By Linda Mathieu
From her book “Frenchless in France”

 
Because Paris is such an ancient city, and because so many of the buildings here are ancient as well, most people walk up stairs to their apartments. I am one of those. We live on the 3rd floor (4th if you are an American as I am when huffing up those stairs) in a building erected probably around 200 years ago. There is no elevator, needless to say. One can be added if all of the owners of apartments in the building agree to pay for it. It would either be put in the middle of the stairs or going up outside where some rather charming stained glass windows now are. It would, by necessity, be very small holding two people at most. When I am carrying bags of groceries or heavy suitcases up the stairs I want one so badly. I g
et a little irritated when walking around the neighborhood
with Maurice and he points out an apartment that he looked at before buying the one we live in. It always has a cute little balcony that I would kill for and, most importantly, an elevator. He didnt make an offer quickly enough to get it. So near and yet so far.
I dont have it as bad as the lady I see struggling up the stairs to the 6th floor above us holding a big baby in one arm with a diaper bag dangling from her fingers while she holds the hand of a toddler fighting her efforts to get him up the stairs. Or the young man, the owner of a big bull dog, on the fifth floor who has to walk his dog several times a day. (God bless my cat!) I have a friend who lives here in Paris who has to walk up 8 (!!!) floors to her place. She is 30 years younger than I am, but still.
It took me a while to figure out the numbering system for floors in France, as well as the rest of Europe. I vaguely remembered some mystery where a mistake was made by a detective when he, an American, thought a murder occurred on the 2 floor and didnt realize the European system was being used. I realized, after using an elevator at a department store, that the 1st floor was not at street level, but one flight up. The initials RC are often on a button in the elevator which is some Latin phrase for ground level, (not RC Cola, if you are from Texas). I remember seeing an American man shaking his head on the elevator at Printemps once at the lack of logic in daring to have something different from the States. I try not to have that attitude. When I got to thinking about it, it made a lot of sense – sort of like deciding, as a country, to drive on the left side of the road instead of the right. It took me several weeks of seeing eme after numbers to realize that it was the same as th or st after a number in America. Little things like this make me realize what a different culture I have ended up in.
I had an American friend named Nancy come visit. We arrived from the airport with her well-filled luggage and started up the stairs. You mean you have to go up these everyday? You must be getting into really good shape. At the end of a long day of walking around Paris we would come back to our apartment and she would pause at the bottom and look up cursing, Im sure, the chance she passed up to stay at a hotel with an elevator. Every time we would come to a metro stop and start on our way out, which always involves lots of stair climbing, I would say, Look, Nancy! More stairs!
Sometimes I will be on the stairs and I catch the aroma of a wonderful meal being cooked. It can be a roast, or some onions frying. When I smell something that probably is being cooked using red wine I have to fight an urge to knock on the door and ask for an invitation to lunch, if not the recipe. I love dishes, such as beef burgundy or coq au vin, that involve long hours of the meat simmering in wine. The best aromas usually occur on Sundays when many people go visiting relatives or friends. Flower shops stay open on Sundays and people can be seen walking down streets with freshly purchased flowers wrapped in cellophane as they head for a meal at someones house….
Editor’s Note: To read the full chapter, please go to http://lindamathieu.com/2008/11/18/stairs.

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