The City That Never Sleeps

PARLER PARIS: THE CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS


September 23, 2002


*** PLANNING FOR A "GRASSE MATINÉE"


If we could divide our bodies into four and never sleep or even rest,
then maybe, just maybe, we could actually take advantage of
everything Paris has to offer. Try as I might, there is yet always
more to do and see…a city so full of life and so profound in
history and lore, that I’d have to live here many lives to feel
remotely satisfied, certainly never close to feeling fully sated.


For example, this past weekend, "Les Journées du Patrimoine" opened
dozens of sights all over the city to the public, attracting millions
of visitors. The 10 most visited monuments in the past have been the
Assemblée Nationale, Sénat, l’Arc de Triomphe, Ancienne Chocolaterie
Menier, Panthéon, Palais Royal, Château de Vincennes, Conciergerie,
Palais de l’Elysée and Hôtel de Matignon.


One American friend who lives here part of the year waited patiently
in line for more than 3 hours to enter the Palais de l’Elysée and
said it was worth it! He then went on to see 3 more sights that day
and set out for another 4 the day after. During his visit of the
Hôtel de Matignon, reporters must have seen a photo-op coming when he
arrived, as (he described it) the crowd split and opened like the
waters of the Red Sea. In front of him stood a man who he didn’t
recognize, but who turned out to be France’s Prime Minister,
Jean-Pierre Raffarin. They had a brief exchange and a handshake while
cameras snapped. The whole scene seemed incredulous to him and by
sheer fluke, met the second most important government figure in
France. Clearly, monument-hopping paid off!


Late Saturday afternoon, I spotted friends exiting the Ambassade de
Grande-Bretagne (per last week’s recommendation to go see it) as we
were trying to enter, but we were 5 minutes too late and lost our
chance to see the beautiful building. Quel dommage! Luckily, we were
redeemed on Sunday by visits to the Hôtel de Béhague (Rumanian
Embassy), a neo-classical home built in 1886, and the Hôtel de
Clermont (Ministry of Public Works), built by the marquise de
Clermont in early 1700s. Both elaborately constructed, appointed and
furnished, reeked of French opulence, adorned in gilt, carved woods,
silks, tapestries and crystal chandeliers. "Ordinary" by French
standards!


So, what can top this on Paris’ upcoming event calendar? The mayor
who created a beach along the Seine does it again! Mark October
5th/6th in your calendar for Nuit Blanche…an all night long revelry
celebrating art and culture and life sponsored by the City of Light.
Scroll down to get the scoop on Nuit Blanche and plan on having a
"grasse matinée" (sleep in late) the following day.


A la prochaine fois,


Adrian


P.S. You may notice that in this issue of Parler Paris, we are
presenting several new books and publications written by Americans
living in Paris. As writers, journalists and publishers ourselves, we
hope to bring you a world of information about Paris and France
written by compatriots who offer their insights into what living here
is all about. We support their efforts, their knowledge and their
talents as wordsmiths. To see the list of books, visit:
/parlerparis/books/index.html


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Parler Paris
/parlerparis/
Written and Edited by Adrian Leeds


Published by International Living
http://www.internationalliving.com
[email protected]


Issue Number 57, September 23, 2002


In this issue:


*** Pig Out in Paris and Stay a Shrimp
*** The Spirits Live On in a Presbytery in Burgundy
*** Black Paris…Three Authors Take You on a Tour of the City and
the Soulfood
*** Uncovering the Riches of Paris and France
*** Have a Bright, White All Night in Paris
*** Post it on the Bulletin Board
*** Buzz Take Brits to Bordeaux (and Other Cities in France)
*** And IL Takes Anglophones to Languedoc
*** No Man’s Land is in Our Land This Fall
*** Pregnant in Paris…There’s a "Message" for You


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If you want to travel in a world of luxury…enjoy the benefits of
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* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** HOW TO PIG OUT IN PARIS AND STAY A SHRIMP
— By Adrian Leeds
p>


Or How to Eat without Guilt! By the author of the Leeds Good Value
Guide to Paris Restaurants
http://www.insiderparisguides.com/restaurants/index.html


The question I get asked most often is: "How do you eat out so often
on such rich French food and stay so slim?" In fact, it’s not unusual
to be asked this question even more often than I dine out.


In the year 2001, I officially dined out in 200 restaurants in Paris.
That’s an average of 4 per week. Amazingly, of which I am very proud,
the average meal was $16.67 including tax and tip. Lord only knows
how many calories that accounts for.


In 1980 I took up eating as a pastime instead of smoking three packs
a day and immediately gained ten0 pounds. While five pounds up or
down comes and goes with the seasons and situations, my weight has
stayed pretty consistent all these years, in spite of Paris dining.
Hence the ceaseless demands (from both women and men) on why I can do
what I do without turning into a "cochon."


A pound of fat equals 3,500 calories, so to lose one pound, one must
expend 3,500 more calories than eaten, whether through increased
activity or decreased eating or both. Decreasing eating is tough for
someone like me who eats for a living.


To answer this question, I first turned to my own daily habits. Then
I turned to the Web. What I learned supported my own hunches. Please
keep in mind that I am no doctor nor dietician. This is not
necessarily good advice, but it’s the truth–for me.


To read 10 ways to pig out in Paris and stay a shrimp, click here:
/parlerparis/articles/pigout.html


*** FRENCH SPIRITS
— by Jeffrey Greene


A House, a Village and a Love Affair in Burgundy… an excerpt:


We never considered the possibility of living in a presbytery. After
all, presbyteries were for priests. Yet we found ourselves driving
farther and farther into a part of Burgundy unfamiliar to us, dense
forests opening suddenly to gentle farmland. At the same time the
landscape was filled with rivers, lakes and ponds. We reached Rogny
in late afternoon and crossed its bridges in total delight before
ascending the steep slope to the high town and entering the open
square with its young Liberty Tree in full leaf, the church towering
into blue afternoon sky, the presbytery crossing the length of the
place de lÉglise in front of us. I got out of the car immediately,
but Mary didn’t move.


"What’s the matter?"


"You go. I need a minute."


Tears came to Mary’s eyes because she knew at once that the sour,
rotting mill of Mélusien had been exorcised.


What we found was a château in miniature, as if a witch had cast a
spell on some noble house and profoundly shrunk it. Only the tall
windows that faced east in front and west had kept their great
size…


* EDITOR’S NOTE: French Spirits: A House, a Village and a Love Affair
in Burgundy is poet Jeffrey Greene’s tale of his love affair with a
very special home in Burgundy, the magnificent countryside of France
and his talented and charming wife, Mary. This is much more than a
tale for me personally, as I have visited this home on several
occasions, have come to know him, his delightful wife, Mary (a native
New Orleanian), his mother, Gretchen (a conversation group friend)
and even his little pup, Christabelle over the years, and now I am
very pleased to introduce his newest book to our readers. To learn
more about French Spirits, click here:
/parlerparis/books/booksaboutfrance.html


* Greene is also the author of American Sprituals, winner of the 1998
Morse Poetry Prize:
/parlerparis/books/poetrybooks.html


He will be participating in the March 2003 International Living Paris
Poetry Workshops surrounding the World Poetry day, March 21, 2003 led
by published poet, Cecilia Woloch. To learn more about the upcoming
event or to be put on a special mailing list for the PARIS POETRY
WORKSHOP, send an email to
mailto:[email protected]?subject=Poetry


*** PARIS REFLECTIONS
— by Christiann Anderson and Monique Y. Wells


Paris Reflections takes the reader on six walking tours through
historic districts of Paris where the African-American presence has
been prominent. The authors have assembled a vast amount of
information about the lives and works of many of Paris’s most
prominent African Americans, and all who walk the city’s
neighborhoods with Paris Reflections in hand will become intimately
familiar with the stage and exact locations upon which so much of the
area’s vibrant African-American history has played out. Each walk is
accompanied by a clear and detailed map that will help the reader
easily navigate the intricate streets and buildings of the City of
Light.


Christiann Anderson is the author of the soon-to-be-launched SINGLE
WOMAN’S INSIDER GUIDE TO PARIS (http://www.insiderparisguides.com) To
order your copy in advance or be notified of what the guide is
available, email
mailto:[email protected]?subject=SingleWoman


*** THE INSIDER GUIDE TO BLACK PARIS
— by Melinda Herron


Now the cultural hub for English-speaking Blacks–Africans,
African-Americans, West Indians, Blacks from the UK and Canada–Paris
is home.


When Melinda Herron first came to Paris twenty years ago, she wanted
to know where the Black hair salons were, where you could go to
listen to Black music, where you could buy foods like sweet potatoes,
corn meal and black-eyed peas. Even though she thoroughly enjoyed
Paris and all it had to offer culturally, it was essential somehow to
get a taste and feel for "back home." So, just like many sojourners
who arrive in a new city, it became important for her to connect with
other Blacks in order to transform that feeling for community in a
living reality.


After years of research, and originally with a fellow expatriate,
Melinda produced a paper reference guide for tourists, students and
long-term residents. From that first effort, and with many additional
months of research and updating, Insider Paris Guides is proud to
offer this new, electronic guide of Black Paris listings throughout
Paris and nearby suburbs. The Insider Guide to Black Paris brings you
vital and interesting information about what there is to see and do
in Paris from and for this very active black community. This guide
will help you make the right decisions about your stay here, plus it
is simply a great resource for getting around the multicultural sites
of Paris. For more information, visit:
http://www.insiderparisguides.com/black/index.html


*** FOOD FOR THE SOUL
— by Monique Y. Wells, Christiann Anderson (Illustrator), Daniel
Czap (Photographer)


Food for the Soul is a tribute to African Americans, their history,
their culture, and their cuisine. The author, Monique Y. Wells, was
initially inspired to write a book for African Americans in Paris who
wanted a taste of home while living abroad. It was to be a simple
collection of recipes and a list of indoor and outdoor markets,
American grocers and other places where hard-to-find ingredients
could be obtained. However, the project evolved and became a labor of
love for family, for cooking, and for history.


Wells honors her family and its origins in virtually every page of
this book, recounting the memories associated with many of the
recipes that she presents. She speaks of her mother’s Louisiana roots
and the initiative that her mother took to preserve the recipes that
her family brought to Texas from Louisiana. She talks of the pride
and care that her father, a native Texan, takes in his barbecue – The
Best Barbecue in the World! She also celebrates the tracing of her
roots through her maternal grandfather’s Creole family back to the
Bordeaux region of France. For more information, visit:
/parlerparis/books/cuisine.html


*** THE BOJANGLES BOOK OF GUMBO
— by Sharon Leslie Morgan


In January 2001, Chicagoan Sharon Morgan opened Bojangles Restaurant
in Paris as a place to find "soul food, jazz and bon temps." The
restaurant was an immediate hit and quickly built a reputation for
good food, soulful music and a casual, family style ambience. Friday
night is "Gumbo Night" at Bojangles. With the wailing sounds of the
blues playing in the background, Morgan serves up steaming bowls of
Louisiana Creole Gumbo and heaps of "perfect" rice to an appreciative
clientele that includes some of Paris’ premiere jazz musicians along
with "normal folk" from around Europe and the world.


For the very first time, Sharon Morgan shares her knowledge of gumbos
with you in this special Insider Paris Guide!


EDITOR’S NOTE: As a native New Orleanian and serious gumbophile, I
can attest to Sharon Morgan’s gumbo as the best you may ever have in
a lifetime…but don’t tell my mother I said that (who’s gumbo has
always given great pleasure!). For more information, visit:
http://www.insiderparisguides.com/bojangles/index.html


*** THE RICHES OF FRANCE and THE RICHES OF PARIS
— by Maribeth Clemente


Whether you’re a shopper, a browser, or a traveler with a love of all
things French, these are your one-of-a-kind guidebooks to the culture
of Paris and regional France. In The Riches of France, Maribeth
Clemente leads you to the products and centuries-old craftsmanship of
each region. At prices lower than what you would pay in Paris or the
United States, you’ll find endless treasures as you tour boutiques,
small factories, artisans’ workshops, and wineries and distilleries.


In The Riches of Paris, Clemente shares her insider’s knowledge of
the choicest boutiques, restaurants, wine cellars, and auctions to
help you find endless treasures. Whether you’re looking for designer
fashions, Limoges china, the finest perfumes, the best Bordeaux or
just browsing, The Riches of Paris is an indispensable guide for
making your visit to Paris enjoyable and unforgettable. For more
information visit:
/parlerparis/books/booksaboutfrance.html


* * * * * ADVERTISEMENT * * * * *


DINNER ON THE RIVER SEINE!


Set off from the Allée des Cygnes by boat for a two-hour cruise with
an excellent three-course gourmet dinner, apéritif, wine, coffee and
water traveling up the river Seine as far as the new Bibliotèque
Nationale de Paris and back.


The cruis
e, three-course meal, all drinks, taxes, tips and
transportation to and from the Paris-République Holiday Inn is
included.


Click here to learn more:
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/dinner.html


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


*** LA NUIT BLANCHE–AN ENTIRE NIGHT OF FESTIVITIES, OCTOBER 5TH IN
PARIS


The city of Paris never sleeps!


Nuit Blanche is a single event for art and culture in Paris,
organized by the City of Paris. From 7:30 p.m. to 8 a.m. October 5th
– 6th, more than 25 places all over town will be open–museums,
swimming pools, cinemas, concerts and more… plus, 5 Monoprix stores
will be open, 6 Brasseries Flo are serving up a 15 euro menu from
midnight to 8 a.m., special buses will be running and 276 monuments
will be lit all night long!


The official program is a pdf document available on line than can be
printed out–all 31 pages:
http://paris.fr/parisweb/fr/visiter/nuit_blanche/


*** POST YOUR MESSAGE WITH US


Have a conversation with others who share your interests–post your
message on the International Living Bulletin Board–IT’S FREE:
http://www.agora-inc.com/forums/index.cfm?cfapp=15


*** BUZZ AIRLINE FLIES FROM LONDON TO POITIERS


Bill Bonner (International Living’s Founding Officer, President of
Agora Publishing, and the author of the free daily e-mail The Daily
Reckoning) told me that now that Buzz Airline is flying straight from
London to Poitiers and other parts of France, we are sure to see even
more Brits and Americans buying into the French countryside.


From London (Stansted Airport), Buzz is flying to: Bergerac,
Bordeaux, Brest, Caen, Dijon, Grenoble, La Rochelle, Limoges,
Marseilles, Paris, Poitiers, Toulon, Toulouse, Tours


And From France, Buzz is flying between these cities:
Brest-Marseilles-Brest, Bordeaux-Grenoble-Bordeaux,
Bordeaux-Toulon-Bordeaux.


For more information:
http://www.buzzaway.com/where_we_fly/timetables/choose_tt.html


Bill moved to France and bought a "country house" about 5 years ago
(Chateau d’Ouzilly, http://www.internationalliving.com/chateau/) and
has been renovating it ever since! He’ll be telling his tale at the
upcoming WORKING AND LIVING IN FRANCE CONFERENCE at the opening
ceremonies Friday, October 18th at CHEZ JENNY.


EDITOR’S NOTES:


If you are interested in hearing the opening night speakers, have
dinner at Chez Jenny and then join us only for the Grand Tour of
Paris by Thirza Vallois on Sunday morning, please write us at
mailto:[email protected]?subject=DinnerandTour


For more information about the conference, visit the site at:
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/languedoctour.html


If you are seeking the best way (for the price) to get to and from
the airport in Paris and the one I have been using for years, visit:
/parlerparis/services/shuttlerequest.html


*** LOOKING AT PROPERTY IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE


October 22-27, International Living will be exploring the region of
Languedoc-Roussillon, with a small group of serious home-seekers,
journalist Val MacQueen (who lives in the region) and Adrian Leeds,
director of the International Living Paris office.


Languedoc-Roussillon offers an alternative to Provencal living–the
same great weather, beautiful landscapes without the steep prices,
the heavy traffic and the crime.


The itinerary is very exciting–and will give all a chance to explore
and discover what this region might offer for a home away from home.
Have a look:
/parlerparis/liveinfrance/languedoctour.html


*** IN ENGLISH–A LIVING THEATRICAL EXPERIENCE FULL OF RICH
COMEDY…


See NO MAN’S LAND by Harold Pinter at the Sudden Theatre, 14 bis rue
Ste Isaure, 75018 Paris
7 p.m. September 24 through October 27, Tuesday through Sunday
20 euro, students 13 euro, groups 10 euro
For Reservations call 01 42 62 35 00


*** PREGNANCY–A SUBJECT OR A STATE OF BODY?


>>>I was wondering if you have covered the subject of pregnancy in


any of your issues? I have just been a member since August. If you
have would you kindly forward me the link? I am looking for general
information on having a baby (first one) in Paris–doctors,
cliniques, hospitals etc…Thank you, Stephanie M.


Stephanie, while I haven’t needed to take advantage of it for many
years myself, MESSAGE PARIS is an organization here designed
specifically for you! It is a support and contact group for
English-speaking mothers and mothers-to-be living in Paris and the
surrounding suburbs. They have approximately 900 members and offer a
means of contact, activities and information to expectant women, new
mothers and families. They publish the ABCs OF MOTHERHOOD IN PARIS,
an essential practical guide for English-speaking parents l
iving in
Paris and the suburbs. Written by mothers, the book covers more than
100 topics about living in Paris with a baby or children.
It includes
information on all aspects of family life–from childcare and
education to children’s activities, plus practical details on
shopping, transport, pre-school education, choosing maternity
facilities and using medical and emergency services. For more
information about Message, visit their Web site at:
http://www.messageparis.org/


A SPECIAL NOTE: For a reference on the most wonderful OB-GYN
practicing here in Paris, visit:
http://www.agora-inc.com/forums/Main.cfm?CFApp=15 and then click on
"Doctors in Paris."


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


TO READ MORE:


Go to /parlerparis/


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


HAVE A SPECIAL MESSAGE? WANT TO EXCHANGE LINKS?


If you would like to have your message read by the subscribers of the
Parler Paris Nouvellettre®, please e-mail me at
[email protected]


If you have links about Paris or France and would like reciprocal
links, please e-mail me at [email protected]


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


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e-letter? Forward it to your friend, relative, or associate!


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