The Historical Center: Never Building Up or Out


The Historical Center:
Never Building Up or Out

One Brief Moment in Time on Rue des Francs Bourgeois, Le Marais

(FOR SUBSCRIBERS ONLY)

French Property Insider

November 10, 2005, Paris, France
http://adrianleeds.com/frenchproperty/insider

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Bonjour French Property Insider Subscriber,

The rioting in the suburbs of Paris have calmed down thanks to curfew laws and riot control tactics. The rioting has taken place mostly well outside the city limits, barely affecting life in Paris. In fact, the media keeps us informed as there is no sign of any commotion within the Périphérique, with the exception of one reported car set on fire here in Le Marais.

We address the issue in today’s newsletter — how these recent events will affect the real estate market and your investment. After much thought and discussion, in an strange way, we see it as a positive reaction. Scroll down to read our prediction.

Le Marais gets special attention in this issue — it remains the hottest spot to buy in Paris for a variety of reasons. Besides the fact that prices in the Marais are still lower than in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Latin Quarter and Eiffel Tower districts and that rentals are strong, return on investment high, the Marais will always be the historical district of the city. It can never be built up or out. Seventeenth-century structures are likely to be standing another few hundred years with all the good care that is taken of them, thanks to the laws of 1962 and André Malraux that protect the historical centers of French cities.

Not to forget, Thanksgiving is just around the corner. A word about French turkeys and a way for those spending their holiday here in France to have a real American style celebration. I’m off to Knoxville and New Orleans to visit family, with Thanksgiving Dinner at the second oldest restaurant in New Orleans, Tujague’s, on Decatur Street in the French Quarter which survived the flooding with flying colors. For that reason, there will be no FPI that week.

Be sure to read the special notices at the beginning of the newsletter — there is also an important message about upcoming conferences and comments from attendees of past conferences.

Adrian Leeds
Editor, French Property Insider
Email: Adrian@AdrianLeeds.com

P.S. From now until Christmas and January when air fares are low, is a great time to come look at property. Read "How Will the Paris Riots Affect the Real Estate Market?" to understand why you shouldn’t wait any longer.

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Volume III, Issue 44, November 10, 2005

In this issue:

* Special Notices
* Property Prices and the Paris Riots
* Discovering Le Marais on Foot
* The Charm of the 3rd and 4th Arrondissements
* A Salute to Le Marais in the City by the Bay
* Talking Turkey in Paris
* Learn the Art of Trompe l’Oeil
* Complete Relocation Solutions from FPI
* Today’s Currency Update from Moneycorp
* Next Parler Paris Après-Midi: December 13
* Hot Property Picks: The Magical Marais
* On the Auction Block November 29
* Classified Advertising: Leeds Marais Apartment Available Thanksgiving

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Special Notices

* SEMINAR POSTPONED TO 2006

The Invest in France Seminar previously scheduled for December 28, 2005 here in Paris has been postponed to March 2006 and is projected to be a full three-day Living and Investing in France Conference! New Orleans is also planned for this power-packed conference in May 2006. Stay tuned as the details unfold by visiting http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis/liveinfrance/index.html. To be on a special mailing list for more information about the events, email Schuyler Hoffman at info@adrianleeds.com/parlerparis

* READ COMMENTS AND SEE PHOTOS

To read comments from the attendees of the past Living and Investing in France Conference in San Francisco and the Invest in France Seminar in New York City, visit http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis/liveinfrance/conference_comments.html and to see photos from all past events, visit http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis/liveinfrance/photos.html

* FPI TAKES OFF FOR THANKSGIVING

FPI is afforded two unpublished issues a year. This year we will not be publishing on Thanksgiving Day (as was last year), to allow the Editor to travel to New Orleans to have turkey with her family and visit the city.

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The main conflict started in Clichy,
well outside of central Paris


How Will the Paris Riots Affect theReal Estate Market?
By Adrian Leeds

The moment the outbreaks of the unrest in the "banlieue" began, we began to speculate on how this unforeseen series of events would affect the current strong and prospering real estate market.

Our clients scheduled to arrive next week to search for property hesitated, fearing danger entering the city. November 7th, the U.S. Embassy issued a warning, and while it clearly states, "While damage to property has been extensive, there seems to be no pattern of arsonists directing their anger at ordinary citizens or tourists," a warning of any kind instills fear, warranted or not. (See http://france.usembassy.gov/consul/acs/new/francetravel.htm)

Meanwhile, residents of Paris complain the media exaggerates the level of the violence. The city remains calm, the sun is shining and life seems to go on as normal for most Parisians. The curfew enforcement appears to be reducing the arson and the unrest relaxes as one might imagine it should.

We make no political statement here, nor judge the rights or intentions of those involved, but let’s look at the facts and analyze what we might see for the future.

1. Many buildings have been destroyed, primarily OUTSIDE of Paris, leaving a void and a subsequent need for new construction. (Flooding resulting from Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans is having a similar affect.) I predict an overwhelming demand for workers and services to rebuild what seemed like unnecessary destruction. A boost in the economy could be imminent resulting in more people with property purchasing power.

2. The euro has fallen against the dollar. Today’s rate of exchange is 1 Euro = $1.17 / 1 Dollar = 0.84 Euro (http://www.xe.com). This provides even more dollar buying power. Only 10 days ago, the rate of exchange was 1 Euro = $1.20 / 1 Dollar = 0.83 Euro. Three cents per Euro translates to $15,000 in savings on a 500,000 Euro property!! This will lead to higher demand, fewer available properties and an increase in prices. If the Euro should fall as far as the "Big Mac Index," 1 Euro = $1.10, then there will be even more American buyers on the scene — but there is no way to predict such a dramatic fall.

3. Interest rates continue to remain low. If the dollar continues to gain strength, interest rates in France may see a slight increase, but rates have been low and stable for a long time. Lenders don’t predict much of a change, but, it is advised to borrow now while rates are still low.

4. Lenders are extending the life of the loans. Until very recently, the age limit on mortgages hovered between 70 to 75, because life insurance policies mandatory to protect the mortgage became prohibitively too expensive the older the insured. This is changing as the lending market becomes more competitive. GE MoneyBank is now offering loans through the age of as high as 95 and will be able to lend as much as 95%! The premiums may not be greatly reduced, but it allows more people to be able to borrow money.

We believe that buying real estate in Paris will be even more of a profitable and sound investment than before. This is an excellent time to invest in the market, particularly in central Paris which remained stable and virtually untouched throughout the civil unrest and which we are certain will be protected at all costs by the French government.

Paris is still Paris.

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A Stroll Through the 3rd — The Northern Marais
By Adrian Leeds
http://www.parismarais.com

Strolling through Le Marais is more than just the physical experience of putting one foot before the other and taking in the visual pleasures along the way. Le Marais is a miracle in itself…that it even exists in today’s Paris thanks to (at least) one very influential Frenchman…for as late as 1962 it was a slum ready for razing. André Malraux, de Gaulle’s Minister of Culture, was responsible for the passing of a bill in August of that year to safeguard certain historical sectors and protect the old centers of towns threatened by real estate promotion. Today, Le Marais is one of Paris’ chicest neighborhoods where real estate prices continue to rise substantially.

No matter what turn you take, what courtyard you venture into, what hôtel particulier you stop to admire, there is a sense of more than just the profound history, but also of the thousands of lives whose spirits live on in the Marais. I, personally hope to be one of them…as the longer I live and work here, the more attached I become to its little idiosyncrasies and distinctive personality.

About ten centuries ago, the swamps (marais) were drained by religious communities and later, by royal deed of Louis VII, Le Marais became the "kitchen" of Paris — where fresh produce was grown and sold. In the 14th-century, royal homes began to be established there and the first street was paved — now called "rue Pavée." In the 16th-century, streets were laid to cross the fields: rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Sainte Catherine (Sévigné) and Payenne. The 17th-century is considered a golden age for the Marais when Henri IV, the first of the French town planners constructed the Place des Vosges. Between the 18th and 19th-centuries, the Marais was sadly neglected and in the 20th-century,

it was planned to raze all the center
of the Right Bank and to widen rue de Rivoli. It wasn’t until the classified Hôtel de Vigny on rue Parc-Royal became scheduled for demolition that immediate intervention was necessary. The movement and creation of the "Association pour la Sauvegarde et la Mise en Valeur du Paris Historique" encouraged Malraux to make a study and save Le Marais from destruction.

Le Marais consists of both the 3rd and 4th arrondissements of Paris, the 3rd being the northern part bordered by rue des Francs-Bourgeois on the south, boulevard Sebastopol on the west, boulevard St. Martin on the north and the boulevards Temple, Filles du Calvaire and Beaumarchais on the east. I live in the most northern section, a quartier called "Temple" because of its history when at one time it was a state within a state owned by the powerful order of the Knights Templar founded in the Holy Land to protect pilgrims. It is here where you can start your exploration of what I consider to be the most fascinating part of Paris. For a very in-depth historical account of the Marais and all arrondissements of Paris, I recommend having Thirza Vallois’ Around and About Paris (Volumes 1, 2 and 3) at your fingertips, but for a casual stroll to take in the spirit of the lives of which I speak, you can follow my lead to my favorite spots.

Begin at Place de la République and walk down rue du Temple, turning left onto rue du Petit-Thouars. This lovely tree-lined street leads to the Carreau du Temple, an iron structure once a marketplace and currently under renovation as "Un Espace Pour Tous" as was voted by its inhabitants — the first vote of its kind in Paris.

Turn right on rue Eugène Spuller to visit the Mairie de Troisième (town hall of the 3rd) and Square du Temple, one of Paris’ prettiest parks. Continue to the corner of rue de Bretagne, the 3rd’s main shopping street. Just there across from the Mairie at number 47 is Chez Omar, one of the neighborhood’s most popular restaurants, famous for excellent couscous and an incomparable ambiance, thanks to Omar and his jovial personality.

Turn left and continue down rue de Bretagne until you arrive at an intersection where several streets meet: rue Vieille du Temple, rue de Turenne, rue Froissart and rue des Filles du Calvaire, not hesitating to take a left or right turn down any of the narrow streets that cross: rue de Picardie, rue Charlot, rue de Saintonge and rue Debelleyme. These streets are mostly residential with a variety of uzines (factories), grossistes (wholesalers), art galleries, boutiques and craftsmen on the street level. Many of these maisons (houses) are 17th-century and 18th-century, with a smattering of pierre-de-taille (cut stone) 19th/20th-century buildings, too.

While rue Vieille du Temple is one of my favorite streets to stroll, I’ll take you right on rue de Turenne instead, heading south straight for the Place des Vosges, a few steps to the left from the corner of rue des Francs-Bourgeois. It’s not only Paris’ most elegant square, but is the city’s most expensive address. Circle it under the arcades, admire the shops, visit the House of Victor Hugo (number 6), have lunch at Ma Bourgogne (number 19), and duck into the magnificent courtyard of the Hotel Sully. It is impossible not to be enchanted.

Rue des Francs-Bourgeois is the Marais’ finest shopping street, shop after shop, in one straight stretch, always open on Sundays and always quite busy, too. Take it going west and venture up any of the streets that cross it: rue de Sévigné, rue Payenne, rue Elzévir to discover the Musée Carnavalet (23-29 rue de Sévigné) and the Musée Cognacq-Jay (8 rue Elzévir). At Place de Thorigny, where rues Elzévir and rue du Parc-Royal meet, on the left you’ll find the Musée de la Serrure (1 rue de la Perle) and straight ahead, the Musée Picasso (5 rue de Thorigny). These are all situated in magnificent 16th-century hôtel particuliers worth learning more about.

Behind the Musée Picasso sits the Jardin de l’Hôtel Salé with an entrance on rue Vieille du Temple. Turn left on rue Vieille du Temple walking south past the Hôtel de Rohan (number 87) back to rue des Francs-Bourgeois and right again to rue des Archives, turning right to visit the Archives Nationales and Musée de la Histoire de France (60 rue des Francs-Bourgeois) and the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (number 60).

At the corner where the museums site starts rue des Haudriettes which will take you west to rue du Temple. If you turn left, you’ll find the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme in the Hôtel de Saint-Aignan at number 71 and if you take a right, then a quick left onto rue Montmorency, you will find the 15th-century house at number 51 (built 1407) of the legendary French alchemist, Nicolas Flamel, now a fine restaurant.

Circle the block to the parallel street, rue Chapon, behind the Flamel house to discover passage des Gravilliers and take it to rue des Gravilliers, a narrow street bustling with wholesalers. Just in front of you at the corner of rue des Vertus, a pedestrian street, is a 16th-century house with the classic angle of the side walls, from narrow at upper floors, usually no more than four, to wider at the first level.

Rue des Vertus will take you north to rues au Maire and Volta. These two streets constitute a small "China Town" lined with Chinese restaurants, markets and merchants. At 5 rue Volta is a Tudor house rivalling the age of the Flamel house — it’s unknown as to which is actually the elder. A "Soupe Pho" restaurant occupies the street level space, and it’s known to be quite good, but my favorite Chinese restaurant there is Chez Shen at 49 rue Volta.

Chez Shen is a step from rue Beaubourg and the Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers at 60 rue Réaumur/292 rue Saint-Martin. Behind the museum, take rue Vertbois going east to pass one of Paris’ finest, funkiest (too old-world to be true!) and expensive restaurants, Chez l’Ami Louis, at number 32. Past it to the next corner, take rue Volta to the left and up the stairs through passage du Pont aux Biches to rue Meslay, the longest street in Paris of wholesales shoe sellers. Take a right to arrive back at Place de la République.

Of course, there are dozens of other streets and hundreds of other curiosities to discover along the stroll, if you have the time and wherewithal to leave no stone unturned. So, don’t hesitate a moment to take all the time you want to venture into a courtyard, visit a museum, read a historical plaque or purchase mementos in the shops. And all the while, open your heart
to the hundreds of thousands who have experience
d Le Marais before you, whether for a lifetime or a fleeting moment. I promise, it will never leave you, even long after you’ve left it.

Editor’s Note: For much more information about the history of Le Marais, plus places to stay, cool restaurants, shops and more, be sure to visit http://www.parismarais.com the Art of Living Guide for this popular area. To get all the latest news about Le Marais, subscribe to Parismarais newsletter, published on the 15th of every month — subscribe now at http://www.parismarais.com/parismarais-newsletter.htm

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Excerpt from "Which Arrondissement is Yours?"
By Thirza Vallois

When I first moved to Paris, some 40 years ago, people hardly ever spoke in terms of arrondissements.

At the time Paris was perceived as a collection of "villages," which is, in fact, how it all started… some thousand years ago. Parisians in those days referred to their "quartier," which meant the neighborhood around your home, basically within walking distance. It would include your baker’s, butcher’s, green-grocer’s, newsagent’s, florist’s, post-office, pharmacy, school, church, etc. If you were lucky there was also a little garden nearby.

Some "quartiers" had their open-air markets two or three mornings a week, and all had their cafés and one café-tabac, an important gathering place for the neighborhood’s men on Sunday mornings, where they would fill in their coupons for the weekly horse-racing ("le tiercé"), washed down by "un ballon de rouge" (a glass of red wine).

Meanwhile, their wives would be doing all the heavy shopping at the market, followed by the cooking of the huge Sunday midday meal, not to mention the washing up (dishwashers were unheard of in your average French household in those pre-women’s emancipation days). In short, going "into town" was reserved for special occasions such as shopping for clothes or an outing to the theatre etc. Other than that, you could spend your entire life without ever setting foot beyond the boundaries of the self-contained microcosms of your "quartier."

And yet, the division of Paris into arrondissements goes back to the French Revolution, precisely in 1795. Although the chopping off of aristocratic heads (as a matter of fact many more belonged to commoners….) is what sticks out when bringing to mind those sanguinary days, the main goal of the Revolution was to modernize France, predominantly in terms of economics and administration. The church, owner of so much property, went the way of the nobility and the feudal system, and with it was gone the division of Paris into parishes (replaced by the "quartiers"). But striding into modernity also meant an increase in the population, which entailed a division into bigger territories – hence the arrondissements, only 12 of them at the time of the Revolution, each of which was divided in its turn into 4 administrative "quartiers," which, being an arbitrary division, do not necessarily correspond to the "personal quartier" the Parisian refers to as "home."

So where do the 20 arrondissements come in? Simple: in 1860, when the Baron Haussmann had the toll walls of Paris demolished and pushed the city out as far as the fortification walls. The villages that lay around Paris, between those walls, were incorporated into the city, following a parliamentary bill known as "l’Annexion." Meanwhile the numbers of the arrondissements were also changed (for example, today’s 10th was the 5th before 1860), starting from the heart of the city and spiraling outwards clockwise like a snail shell ("l’escargot de Paris") as Parisians refer to the layout of their city.

Editor’s Note: In today’s edition we are focusing on Le Marais, and have included a brief portrait of the 3rd and 4th arrondissements.

The 3rd arrondissement

This is the northern part of the Marais district, where it actually all began in the 13th century, thanks to the Knights Templars who settled here and set out to drain its marshes (except for the western edge, which had already been drained by the order of St Martin in the 12th century). Little by little the area developed to the south, as far as the river, especially from the late 14th century on, after the Regent and future Charles V settled there. The Marais became the aristocratic part of Paris, reaching its golden age in the 17th century, but began to decline after the move of the court to Versailles in 1682. The French Revolution dealt it a death blow and in the 19th century it was no better than a slum, attracting many poor Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe in the latter part of the 19th century and early 20th century. Following André Malraux’s bill, renovation of the Marais began in the 1960s. Most of the palatial homes were turned into museums or cultural centers, especially in the southern part of the Marais, which was renovated first. The more north and east you head, the less luxurious overall, but also the more genuinely Parisian, the more atmospheric, and the less touristy. It is neighborly, but not strong on gardens, except for square du Temple — a delightful miniature of an English garden. Needless to say it is named after the Knights Templars whose territory it was, together with all the neighboring streets. And for those who like history, it was in the Tower of the Temple that the Royal family was held prisoners during the Revolution, and from where Louis XVI was taken in a tumbril to the guillotine on place de la Concorde.

The 4th arrondissement

This is the southern part of the Marais, closer to the river. Three sides of the perfectly square place des Vosges belong to the 4th arrondissement. (the northern side belongs to the 3rd). This was Place Royale before the Revolution, the holy of holies. You are not likely to find a vacant apartment on the square, but you never know. If you do, it is bound

to be
very expensive. The 4th is a permanent feast to the eyes, lined with fabulous boutiques on the arty side, eateries of varying prices and all things beautiful. It is also home to the gay and Jewish communities who share a tiny territory and often rub shoulders against one another in perfect harmony (rue des Rosiers and thereabouts, and rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, and thereabouts too).The 4th arrondissement also includes the eastern part of the Ile de la Cité, including Notre Dame, and the very few old, picturesque streets north of the cathedral, which have survived Haussmann’s bulldozer when the Prussian war put an end to the Second Empire. There are some marvelous apartments with stunning views here but they are very hard to come by. To the east lies the Ile St Louis, a great favorite with Americans with a surprisingly decent turnover of property. It’s a tiny self-contained village of amazing 17th-century architecture (most of it was built by the King’s architect). Everything is pretty, stylish and exciting, sometimes at bargain prices. The downside of this gem is the fact that it’s become too popular and can get overcrowded when the weather is nice. It is also home to Berthillon, the city’s famous ice-cream, whose fans converge here from all over the city. Last but not least, the Centre Pompidou is surrounded by apartment blocks which tend to draw trendy and arty people. Some of them are actually quite fabulous, at times offering spectacular views over the roofs of Paris. However, here, like at the neighboring Les Halles, safety can be iffy at night.

About the Author

Thirza Vallois is the author of the highly acclaimed series "Around and About Paris" and the book "Romantic Paris." She holds several post-graduate degrees from the Sorbonne, including the prestigious agrégation. Acknowledged worldwide as a Paris expert, Thirza Vallois is invited regularly to lecture throughout the world. She is the author of the Paris entry for the Encarta Multi-media Software Encyclopedia and of the "Three Perfect Days in Paris" video, viewed on all United Airlines international flights and cable channels throughout the world in 1998. She contributes regularly to magazines, radio and television, notably BBC, PBS, CNN, The Travel Channel, Discovery Channel and The French Cultural Channel, United Airlines’ Hemispheres, Condé Nast Traveler and others. Web site: http://www.thirzavallois.com, where her books can also be ordered.

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Thirza Vallois Talks in California — Autumn 2005

This fall, Thirza Vallois will be back in California for a series of talks on Paris.

If you happen to live in California or are passing through, be sure not to miss out on one of her legendary talks. Enlightenment, pleasure, entertainment will be part of the evening, and lots of stunning slides. Signed copies of her books will be available for purchase during those events.

Saturday, November 12 – St Helena, Napa Valley
Sunday, November 13 – Alliance Française, Napa
Monday, November 14 – Commonwealth Club, San Francisco
Tuesday, November 15 – The Mechanics Institute, San Francisco
Wednesday, November 16 – The Metropolitan Club, San Francisco

For more information on locations and times, visit http://www.thirzavallois.com

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The Cottage Lectures
A Night in the Marais with Cara Black and Leonard Pitt
Friday, Saturday & Sunday
November 11, 12, 13 & 18, 19, 20

 

Act 1.
Leonard Pitt will take you on a guided tour of the splendors and miseries of one of Paris’ most renowned districts, the Marais. Originally a posh quarter for the French aristocracy, by the mid-20th century the Marais had deteriorated into a grimy slum shunned by the Parisian public. In a fit of rationality city urbanists of the 1950s decided that the only solution was to demolish the entire quarter and rebuild in the aesthetic of the day. More enlightened individuals stepped forward to save this historic district for posterity. See images and hear stories of this dramatic history that will surprise, shock, and delight you.

Act 2.
Cara Black, author of 5 murder mysteries set in Paris, will talk about how she uncovered her alter-ego, crime investigator Aimée Leduc, and how she solves murders that never happened. Cara will discuss the process of creating the first in her series, Murder in the Marais, and tell of places she visited that most Americans would never see: the Pont des Arts at midnight; on duty with cops in a dispatch room in police headquarters monitoring radio calls; an unmarked Ministry building across from the Elysée Palace at 1 a.m.; a dingy, winding staircase of a 17th century building on rue des Rosiers. Visit Cara’s website: http://www.carablack.com

Of Murder in the Marais, the New York Times says, "Black inhales Paris’ essence as if it were some musky perfume."

Of her detective Aimée Leduc, The New York Times Book Review says, "Charming…Aimée is one of those blithe spirits who can walk you through the city’s historical streets and byways with their eyes closed."

The Chicago Tribune says Black, "Conveys vividly those layers of history that make the stones of Paris sing for so many of us."

Friday, Saturday & Sunday
November 11, 12, 13 & 18, 19, 20
8 p.m. – wine served
1542 Grant St. at Cedar in Berkeley in Leonard’s 17th century French cottage
Donation $20
Seats to the last cottage lectures sold out in 24 hours. Don’t wait. Reservations a must. Email Leonard, at leonardp@sbcglobal.net, then put a check in the mail to the above address. Zip is 94703.

Walk 4: Le Marais


Editor’s Note: Leonard Pitt is the author of "Promenades Dans le PARIS DISPARU" — A Walking Guide to the Transformation of Paris

Walk through the heart of Paris with hundreds of photos, maps, and engravings in hand to discover a Paris that no longer exists.

Walk 1: De Saint-Germain-des-Prés au square Viviani
Walk 2: L’ile de la Cité
Walk 3: De Saint-Germain-des-Pres au Palais-Royal
Walk 4: Le Marais

Visit http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis/books/index.html for more informationand to puchase Cara Black’s mysteries and Leonard Pitt’s "Paris Disparu."

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Giving Thanks à la Vie Française
By Adrian Leeds

Thanksgiving is that good old secular American holiday that we Americans don’t want to live without, so we manage here in Paris to conjure up our own parties, whether they be in restaurants serving it up, organizations that pool their members or just at home with a few friends and family.

Turkey in France is expensive…a whole turkey is a specialty item one can order from the butcher in advance, but each year I see more and more for sale in the supermarkets. The price of turkey in France is about twice that of one in the U.S. But, in spite of the expense, as an experienced cook of turkeys both Stateside and in France, I am here to tell you that there simply isn’t a tastier turkey than a French one. A French turkey can be as large as an American model twice the weight, which I speculate is because the meat is leaner and not as dense. This may also explain why French turkeys cook in half the time! The meat is darker and juicier.

For sweet potatoes, canvas the African markets (Chateau Rouge and lots of others) and for cranberry sauce, you can opt for making it from scratch with real cranberries ("canneberges") or visiting one of the American markets in Paris for the traditional canned variety (try the department of American products at the Grande Epicerie de Paris of the Bon Marché department store at 38 rue de Sèvres, 7th).

If you’d rather not cook at home, Restaurant Joe Allen is offering a Thanksgiving Dinner for Democrats Abroad and anyone else wanting to participate.

Thanksgiving Menu:
Cocktail Bloody Mary, Cape Codder, Cranberry Kir Royale
Haddock chowder with herbed cream
Caesar salad
Pan fried wild mushroom with parmesan and grilled polenta
Roast turkey with apple and walnut stuffing, candied yams, green beans and cranberry sauce with orange and kirsch
Grilled halibut with wild rice pilaf and grilled tomatoes provençales style
Choice of dessert
Pumpkin pie with bourbon sabayon
Pecan bourbon pie
Apple cranberry crumble with vanilla ice cream
Sierra valley Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay (37,5 cl per person), mineral water, coffee

Price: 40 Euros per person TTC

Joe Allen
30 rue Pierre Lescot 75001 Paris
Métro: Etienne Marcel
Tel: 01.42.36.70.13
Fax: 01.42.36.90.80

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Upcoming Conferences

THE ART OF TROMPE L’OEIL SEMINAR
Paris
December 29 – January 2

Join a unique community of artists, engaging in hands-on painting and conversation with internationally renowned trompe l’oeil muralist and educator, Yves Lanthier. An award-winning artist, Yves has created large oil paintings and elaborate trompe l’oeil that adorn the ceilings and walls of many East Coast mansions and Palm beach estates, including Celine Dion’s estate in Jupiter, Florida

 

 

 

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FPI Property Consultation, Search and Relocation Solutions

Let French Property Insider expert property consultants find your dream home in France for you. We consult with you to help you make the best decisions, ferret out the finest properties to meet your criteria, schedule the visits and accompany you, negotiate with the agencies and owners, recommend the notaires and other professionals, schedule the signings and oversee the purchase with you from start to finish! You could never do it so easily on your own. Let us take the time and effort off your hands.

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Apartments for Rent: Long-Term

To book your services, click here:
http://www.adrianleeds.com/frenchproperty/insider/booking.html

To download a free brochure, click here
http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis/services/fpibrochure.pdf

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TODAY’S CURRENCY UPDATE

Visit the FPI Web site and click on the link on the left panel "Click Here for Currency Convertor by Moneycorp" for up to the minute conversions of all major currencies.

Compare currency values easily and quickly by visiting: http://adrianleeds.com/frenchproperty/loan/moneycorpconvertor.html

Charts http://www.Moneycorp.co.uk/members/charts.asp The charts below are updated every ten seconds.

The prices shown are "inter bank" exchange rates and are not the rates that you will be offered by Moneycorp. Your rate will be determined by the amount of currency that you are buying. Please speak with an Moneycorp dealer or your consultant for a live quotation.

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Parler Paris Après-Midi
http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis/apresmidi.html

NEXT MEETING: December 13, 2005 AND EVERY SECOND TUESDAY OF THE MONTH, 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.

This is your opportunity to meet every month, often with local
professionals who can answer your Working and Living in France questions. You are invited to come for drinks and share your questions and comments about what it takes to create a life here, own property and enjoy what France has to offer. It is also an opportunity to network with other Parler Paris readers.

Upstairs at La Pierre du Marais
96, rue des Archives at the corner of rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris
Métro Lines 9, 3 et 11, stations Temple, République or Arts et Métiers

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HOT PROPERTY PICKS: The Magical Marais

Each week French Property Insider features a range of properties which we believe are on the market at the time of writing. These properties are featured in order to give readers a sample of what is currently available and a working example of prices being asked in various regions of France and districts of Paris.

As we are not a real estate agency. These properties do not constitute a sales listing. For those readers seriously interested in finding property in Paris or France. you can retain our services to do the whole thing for you. For more information, visit http://www.adrianleeds.com/frenchproperty/insider/propertyconsultation.html

*** Paris, 4th Arrondissement, 3 rooms, approx. 60m²

In the historic Marais district, near métro Saint Paul. On a pretty court from the 17th century, this apartment is on the second floor. Large living room, bedroom, bathroom, equipped kitchen and small balcony. With wood floors, moldings, a fireplace, southern exposure.

Asking Price: 500,000 Euros + 2.5% Finder’s Fee

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


*** Paris 3rd Arrondissement, 3 rooms, approx. 73m²

On a 17th century courtyard in a modern building with elevator, this beautiful 3 room apartment is on the third floor. Large living room, two bedrooms, separate kitchen, cellar. Bright and quiet. With interphone and parking is possible.

Asking Price: 557,000 Euros + 2.5% Finder’s Fee

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

p>

*** Paris, 4th Arrondissement, 3/4 rooms, approx. 75m²

3/4 room apartment in a 17th century building. Renovated by an architect. Composed of a double living room 35m² on the street, 2 bedrooms on the court with closets, bathroom with double sink, separate toilet with sink and cellar. New electric and plumbing.

Asking Price: 650,000 Euros + 2.4% Finder’s Fee

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Paris Auctions
http://www.encheres-Paris.com

Next sessions: November 29, 2005, 2 p.m.

Notaires de Paris
Place du Châtelet
12 avenue Victoria
Paris 1st

Additional information on Les Ventes aux Enchères des Notaires can be found on the website at http://www.encheres-Paris.com/ Though the site has a button for an English version, it isn’t reliable to work.

To read Schuyler Hoffman’s article about the property auctions in Paris, click on:
http://www.adrianleeds.com/frenchproperty/insider/subscribersonly/articles/auctions1.html

Studio 32,20 m²
7 avenue Franco-Russe
75007 Paris 7th
Starting Bid: 140,000 Euros
Deposit: 28,000 Euros

 

 

3 rooms 51,3 m²
64 bis boulevard Garibaldi
75015 Paris 15th
Starting Bid: 160,000 Euros
Deposit: 32,000 Euros

 

3 rooms 103,95 m² rented
12 boulevard du Temple
75011 Paris 11th
Starting Bid: 210,000 Euros
Deposit: 42,000 Euros

 

 

5 rooms 113 m²
163 bis rue de Vaugirard
75015 Paris 15th
Starting Bid: 540,000 Euros
Deposit: 108,000 Euros

 

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SEEKING A MORTGAGE IN FRANCE?

Let us help you secure a mortgage in France with interest rates as low as 3%. Visit http://www.adrianleeds.com/frenchproperty/loan for more information.

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INSIDER PARIS GUIDES DISCOUNT FOR
FPI SUBSCRIBERS

Don’t forget that with your FPI subscription you are entitled to a discount on the purchase of any Insider Paris Guides. You’ll find details of the guides at http://www.insiderparisguides.com/. When ordering, a box will pop up allowing you to enter the following username/password

Order more than one guide at a time and you will receive an additional discount!

Username: propertyinsider Password: liveinfrance

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THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW

To access password protected pages: click on any of the links on the left panel of the home page of FrenchPropertyInsider.com under "Subscriber’s Only," then type in your personal username and password.

Past issues of FPI are available on the website. You will find the
"Past Issues" link on the left under "Subscribers Only" or by going to
http://www.adrianleeds.com/frenchproperty/insider/members/content/pastissues/index.html

To receive your free French Leaseback Report or the Paris Property
Report, click on
http://www.adrianleeds.com/frenchproperty/insider/members/content/reports.html

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HELPFUL CONVERSIONS FOR REAL ESTATE

1 square meter = 10.7639104 square feet

1 hectare = 2.4710538 acres

For more conversions, refer to: http://www.onli

neconversion.com/

size="2" face="Verdana">==== CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING ===

==APARTMENT RENTAL==

Leeds Marais Apartment
Available in its entirety November 22 – 28, 2005

Located in a 17th century Le Marais Hotel Particulier, this 70 square meter two-bedroom apartment with lots of light is nicely furnished and is perfect for up to four people when rented in its entirety or a single woman in the freshly renovated guest room when owner Adrian Leeds is there.

Pictures and more details available at
http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis/apartments/rentals/leeds.html


==APARTMENT RENTALS==

For all short term rental apartments in Paris, take a look at http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis/apartments or http://www.adrianleeds.com/frenchproperty/insider/longterm.html for long term apartments.

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SUBSCRIBE TO PARLER PARIS

If you’re not a regular reader of the Parler Paris daily e-letter, and would like to be, simply enter your e-mail address here (it’s free!): http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis

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Copyright 2005, Adrian Leeds Group, LLC

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