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The Renewed Route to Montmartre

Volume III, Issue 45


During the recent unrest in the neighboring towns and suburbs, Paris remained calm and harmonious. City officials want nothing more than for its residents to live in such peaceful harmony. Fourteen percent of them are foreigners! Surprised? Not for us foreigners who live here and are one of them!
This past week, the mayor held a press conference to present the city’s anti-discrimination policy and their new campaign called “Tous Parisiens, Tous Citoyens” to be launched between December 5th and 11th to fight for the right to vote by foreigners with a long history in France — those who carry a Carte de Résident! That means me and the 300,000 + like me!
The entire document which outlines the program to give all residents the right to vote, to acclimate the foreign youth, to stop discrimination in the workplace, to provide more jobs, to allow for more expression of cultural identity, to welcome foreign students, to teach French to all non-speakers and to communicate better with its foreign residents…is unfortunately only written in French (!), but is available here at French Property Insider in pdf format: https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/frenchproperty/insider/members/content/tousparisienstouscitoyens.pdf
I hope to have more information soon in English. Meanwhile, we can practice our French and sharpen our voting pencils. This is very exciting news for all of us wishing to have a voice!
Today’s issue, however, does not focus on this new initiative, but on the renewal and revival of a historical part of Paris that until the last couple of years, was sadly neglected — rue des Martyrs in the 9th arrondissement. Now, with the backing of the “Quartiers Verts” program and the initiative of the merchants, the street is alive once again as one of the hippest spots in Paris.
Have a look — we offer it up from many different perspectives, including a few properties that will appreciate in value better than most.
A bientôt…

Adrian Leeds
Editor, French Property Insider
Email: [email protected]

P.S. Don’t forget — Thanksgiving is a holiday for you and for us, as well. I’ll be downing turkey at Tujague’s in French Quarter and we’ll be taking one of our two-issues per year break next week. When I return, I’ll have much to report on from my look at my home town, Nouvelle Orléans. Happy T-day to all!
Volume III, Issue 45, November 17, 2005
In this issue:
* Special Notices
* Good News for the French Economy
* The Sign for Smoke-Free Dining
* Rue des Martyrs Gets a Facelift
* Property Price Growth in the Ninth
* Village Life Near Rue des Martyrs
* Around and About the Ninth Arrondissement
* Artists Open Days
* Upcoming Conferences

* Complete Relocation Solutions from FPI
* Today’s Currency Update from Moneycorp
* Next Parler Paris Après-Midi: December 13
* Hot Property Picks: The “Nouvelle” Ninth
* On the Auction Block December 13
* Classified Advertising: Leeds Marais Apartment Available Thanksgiving

Special Notices
FPI is afforded two unpublished issues a year. This year we will not be publishing on Thanksgiving Day (as was last year), to allow the Editor to travel to New Orleans to have turkey with her family and visit the city.
French Economy Remains Robust
Assetz Property News Service


New research in France has found that the country’s economy looks to be showing signs of good growth over the coming months.
In an announcement that will be welcomed by property investors in the region, Insee, th
e official statistics insti
tute, revealed that the overall economy grew by 0.7 per cent during the third quarter. This growth is likely to encourage more property investors who have been put off over the last 12 months by the Europe-wide trend of slowing economies.

The housing market is one area that has particularly suffered during that slowdown, as can be seen from the experience in the UK, where inflation in consumer spending has ground to a halt along with property prices. But with signs of a recovery on the way in a number of countries in the established European countries, including France and the UK, there could be many opportunities for property investors.
Rental yields are set to go up as the economy looks to bounce back from its recent slump, meaning that investors are likely to see improved returns. The promising signs in the market also suggest that investors will need to begin investing in property once again if they are to take advantage of the dip in prices that has been seen. That is certainly the case in the UK, where property prices now appear to have bottomed out.
In France, the Insee announcement means that the country remains on target for its proposed growth of between two and 2.5 per cent during the course of 2005. That was the view of France’s finance minister Thierry Breton and that declaration highlights the country’s market potential for investors, as it reflects the region’s stable economy.
While the country will have to wait and see what effect the rocketing oil prices will have on the overall economy, it appears that the housing market can gain some benefit from the growth and investors will be eager to take advantage of the favourable market conditions.
There had been concerns voiced in the UK that property prices in France could put off future investment in the country, but in October, French property investment expert Penny Zoldan expressed the opinion that this was not the case. That view now appears to have been justified, with the French government’s pronouncement of a robust economy suggesting that the French property market will provide a solid investment opportunity.

100% Tobacco Free
From à Paris, October-November, 2005

The city of Paris and the national trade union of hotel, restaurant, café owners have responded to the demands of customers and authorities. The former has developed the label “Etablissements sans tabac,” or “Tobacco Free Establishments” supported by a charter, that the latter can adhere to on a voluntary basis. Simple and effective.
For a list of smoke-free hotels and restaurants, visit:

Ça Bouge Rue des Martyrs!
By Adrian Leeds

Rue des Martyrs is not only a historic north-south route of the 9th arrondissement…rue des Martyrs is moving and shaking. This week’s Zurban ran a multi-page spread touting its come-back — once lost under the shadow of Montmartre, now with newly enlarged sidewalks (thanks to Mayor Delanoë’s “Quartiers Verts” program, rue des Martyrs is “branché” (trendy) for hot new artisan boutiques and bourgeois fresh produce stands.
The new association created by the merchants in April 2005 called simply “Rue des Martyrs,” is under the leadership of a young dynamic woman and a motivated team plus about 40 participating merchants. Their goal is to liven the district and maintain a convivial atmosphere on the street for the benefit of the clients and the businesses. They have addressed important issues of security, sufficient lighting, traffic circulation, and development of commerce on the adjacent streets.
The street is noted on the map by Jouvin de Rochefort as early as 1672. It was first named “rue des Procherons” then “rue des Martyrs” and from 1793 to 1806, “rue du Champ de Repos.” After the construction of the general Farmers’ Market, the two parts were rejoined and renamed. The origin — the route toward Montmartre, or “mount of the martyrs.”
As part of the city’s project to create more breathing space for its citizens, much work was done this past summer and fall to enhance the street and environs. For this past year, an experiment called “Operation Rue des Martyrs Sans Voiture” has permitted the residents of the district to close the street to traffic from Eglise Notre-Dame de Lorette to rue Clauzel every last Sunday of the month. A polling of the residents this past March discovered that as a result of the test, 93.4% were in favor of a weekly closing of the street. Effective since early May 2005, rue des Martyrs has been closed to traffic every Sunday from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m..
To celebrate, the merchants organized a festival this past September culminating in a fashion show on the street preceded by a concert of Brazilian drummers in the spirit of “l’Année du Brésil” in France. The fashions consisted of new collections from boutiques on the street, coiffed models and make-up designers supplied by the merchants from the district. The theme: “J’aime ma rue, je participe à son renouveau” — “I love my street — I participate to revive it.”
For Christmas, the traditional holiday lighting will be more important than ever and we can expect another celebration to be planned by the association.
Editor’s Note: For more information, visit: http://www

Your Pied-à-Terre Near Rue des Martyrs
By Adrian Leeds

Photo: Rue des Martyrs at Boulevard de Clichy, 1870

We are always looking toward the future of Paris real estate with strong growth potential in mind. A few years ago, we would have steered you away from the 9th for rentability and high return on your investment, but with the progressive movements of the city and the 9th arrondissement to revive rue des Martyrs and its environs, one must take a second look at this area as a viable potential investment.
The 9th arrondissement is one of the districts showing the most growth, with 14.7% appreciation from 2nd quarter last year to 2nd quarter this year, 8th on the scale to prosper so well as per the following chart:
The arrondissements with the strongest growth are:
10th + 18.8% (4,294 Euros/m2)
19th + 18.3% (3,675 Euros/m2)
18th + 17.7% (4,129 Euros/m2)
12th + 16.2% (4,674 Euros/m2)
20th + 16.0% (3,927 Euros/m2)
11th + 15.0% (4,595 Euros/m2)
13th + 14.9% (4,694 Euros/m2)
9th + 14.7% (4,932 Euros/m2)
2nd + 13.9% (5,146 Euros/m2)
17th + 13.5% (4,796 Euros/m2)

Cost per square meter is still relatively low. Compare 4,932 euros per meter in the 9th with the 6th at 7,248 Euros/m2, followed by the 7th at 6,979 Euros/m2, to the 4th at 6,594 Euros/m2, still ahead of the 5th at 6,123 Euros/m2, the 8th at 6,061 Euros/m2, the 1st at 5,952 Euros/m2 and the 16th at 5,860 Euros/m2.
Rentability still does not compare with these districts, but for long-term rental and tremendous appreciation potential, the 9th is a district to begin to consider adding to your Paris portfolio. If you’re in the market for a great place to live and rentability isn’t as important, then you may love becoming one of those to bring new life to this historic part of the city, long neglected.
Editor’s Note: Keep in mind that the valuations published by the Chambre de Notaires are approximately 30% to 50% less than current market valuations. There are several factors contributing to this variance. First is timing. There is approximately a 90-day period from the time an offer is made on a property until the time of closing. Thereafter, the numbers may not be reported until up to six months to the Chambre de Notaires. Secondly is the reduction in the purchase price, which can be attributed to direct payments made to the agent to help reduce notaire fees; listing of inventory of fixed furniture such as built-ins and appliances; and under-the-table cash transactions, which are illegal but do occur. Finally, the figures are diluted as they are reported by an arrondissement in its entirety and do not account for differences by neighborhoods. For example in the 18th arrondissement, a property in the heart of Montmartre near Sacre Coeur or on Rue des Abbesses can be sold for about 6,000 euros per square meter or more, while a property near Chateau Rouge or Max Dormoy, will be listed for about 3,400 euros per square meter.
Reprint from The New York Times Travel
February 27, 2005

In Paris, the Rue des Martyrs Is a Slice of Village Life

SUNDAY in Paris and nowhere to go. Much of the city shut tight.
So how to satisfy that craving for comfort that is particularly acute if one is not staying in a suite at the Ritz but in one of those functional, undersize rooms for which Paris is famous? How also to satisfy that perennial desire for discovery, particularly if the city is familiar?
Sure, there’s the Marais – but every other tourist in Paris is already there.
Instead, head over to the Rue des Martyrs, just northeast of the Galeries Lafayette department store and southwest of the Basilica of Sacré-Coeur at Montmartre. This half-mile street, mostly uphill, is the spine of a neighborhood that offers magic in a compressed time and space.
It was the martyrdom of Saint Denis in the fifth century for preaching the Christian Gospel that gave the street its name. According to legend, Saint Denis miraculously picked up his head after he was beheaded and walked for miles before dying.
During the Renaissance, the site of his beheading, on what is now the Rue Yvonne Le Tac, became a place of pilgrimage. In 1534, Ignatius Loyola and his companions came to pay homage and took vows that led to the creation of the Jesuit order. (The tiny chapel dedicated to Saint Denis, and rebuilt in the 19th century, can be visited on Friday afternoons and on Sundays by appointment.)
The Rue des Martyrs starts at the Notre-Dame-de-Lorette Church and ends near the Place des Abbesses. The busy Boulevard de Rochechouart slices the street in two at the Pigalle Métro, and divides it between the 9th and the 18th Arrondissements. Both parts blend the coziness of a village frozen in time and the vitality of a neighborhood described as “bobo,” or bourgeois bohemian.
The lower part of the street seems more bourgeois, because so many young, upwardly mobile families have moved in here on the heels of the artists, filmmakers and writers who came years ago. It is closed to cars, but not bicycles or baby strollers, on Sunday between 10 a.m. and 1 p.m., making its specialty food and flower shops, boutiques and restaurants easy to navigate. The upper part, with its c
abarets and clubs and proximity to the s
till somewhat seedy Pigalle, retains a distinctly bohemian feel.

All along the way are delightful visual detours: a private gated courtyard at Cité Malsherbes, with its enameled terra cotta at No. 11, where the 19th-century painter Jules Jollivet lived; the tranquil, tree-lined Place Charles Dullin; the steep staircase at the end of the Rue Chappe.
Some shops on the Rue des Martyrs, like Boucherie Billebault, a popular butcher shop, have been operated by the same families for more than a century. A used-clothing store at the base of the street sells slightly shabby men’s vintage tweed overcoats for $20; an antique jewelry store up the road offers Art Deco diamond-encrusted rings for thousands of dollars.
What is just as appealing as the contrast in this neighborhood is the intimacy. This is a small, easily maneuverable area where people still greet each other on the street and merchants look out for their own.
Tito Galli, an Italian who owns Chez Tito, a small but intimate Italian food store and eatery hidden on the Rue Hippolyte Lebas, hangs the works of struggling neighborhood artists and photographers. For the closing day of a recent exhibition at L’Oeil du Huit, an art gallery around the corner, Mr. Galli donated the Italian pastries and espresso.
The art gallery, which was once a printing shop, runs an artist’s atelier out of a glass-roofed back room, with art classes for schoolchildren and free space for painters who don’t have their own studios.
“I lived for 30 years in the 16th, which was a first-class tomb where I didn’t know any of my neighbors,” said Frank Caradec, a resident of the Rue des Martyrs neighborhood, referring to the large, conservative, wealthy area where many business executives and diplomats live. “Now I live among painters and musicians and children.”
While the Rue des Martyrs and the surrounding streets are peppered with restaurants, my favorite on Sundays is Rose Bakery, a homey bakery with a laid-back feel (and laid-back service). Go early. There can be a long line out onto the street.
Rose Carrarini, an Englishwoman, and her French husband, Jean-Charles, use largely organic ingredients and serve up American-style pancakes and homemade scones, carrot cake, shortbread crumbles, pizzas and quiches and orange marmalade, and a wide selection of teas from around the world. In January, they opened City Organic, an organic food store featuring teas, soaps and other products from England, on the nearby Rue Milton.
An anchor near the other end of the Rue des Martyrs is Le Progrès on the Rue des Trois Frères, a bar and brasserie where customers park their baby strollers at the entrance. There’s beer on tap, simple fare like warm kippers and grilled lamb chops and upscale drinks like caipirinhas and black Russians. Close by is the Place des Abbesses, with its Belle Époque Hector Guimard Métro station.
For shoppers, the Rue des Martyrs offers delightful secondhand shops. Et Puis C’est Tout has a vast collection of advertising crockery and glassware – pitchers, ashtrays, coffee mugs, carafes, as well as odd bits of furniture. L’Objet Qui Parle is a hole-in-the-wall of a brocante – a cross between an antique shop and junk store – with real finds, especially in provincial pottery and stemware, most from northeastern France. There are even stuffed pheasants and ducks.
For those who love to linger in bookstores, there is L’Oeil du Silence at No. 91, with its old patterned tile floor, wooden tables piled with books and Betty Boop and Betty Grable pinups. It boasts a collection of first editions on art and film, books on the Paris Commune, CD’s of experimental music and vintage record albums.
The Librairie des Abbesses on the Rue Yvonne Le Tac is lined with floor-to-ceiling bookcases trimmed in red and gold. Its owner, Marie Rose Guarnieri, is a fierce neighborhood booster and a regular on a literary program on the Paris Premiere cable TV channel, opining not only on books but also all things intellectual.
This is not a part of Paris where many Americans choose to stay. But there are a handful of decent, even charming hotels. The best among them are the Hôtel Lorette, Hôtel Lamartine (the Romantic poet Alphonse Lamartine lived there briefly) and the Hôtel France Albion. For visitors who prefer to search for the crustiest baguette and perfect melon and cook for themselves, there is no better place to rent an apartment and to pretend, even for a brief time, to live in Paris.

Excerpt from “Which Arrondissement is Yours?”
By Thirza Vallois

The 9th arrondissement
The 9th arrondissement that I am talking about lies north of the Grands Boulevards, on the way to Montmartre. It is all about understated side streets close to the exquisite place St-Georges. It is THE quintessential Paris of the 19th century, unbeknownst to all, probably the city’s best kept secret. All the romantic artists, writers and musicians lived here at some point or frequented it (hence the Museum of the Romantic Life on rue Chaptal, for instance). If you are not after flashy places, if you like understatement, if you like good taste, and if you are lucky to find an available place here, you might consider living here. It’s the kind of neighborhood that grows on you, and it’s full of wonderful courtyards and lots of excellent, neighborhood restaurants.
About the Author
Thirza Vallois is the author of the highly acclaimed series “Around and About Paris” and the book “Romantic Paris.” She holds several post-graduate degrees from the Sorbonne, including the prestigious agrégation. Acknowledged worldwi
de as
a Paris expert, Thirza Vallois is invited regularly to lecture throughout the world. She is the author of the Paris entry for the Encarta Multi-media Software Encyclopedia and of the “Three Perfect Days in Paris” video, viewed on all United Airlines international flights and cable channels throughout the world in 1998. She contributes regularly to magazines, radio and television, notably BBC, PBS, CNN, The Travel Channel, Discovery Channel and The French Cultural Channel, United Airlines’ Hemispheres, Condé Nast Traveler and others. Web site: http://www.thirzavallois.com, where her books can also be ordered.

Anvers to Abbesses Artists’ Open Days
November 17 and 18, 2005: 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.
November 19 and 20, 2005: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Painters, sculptors, photographers, engravers and ceramists present their work in their own studios. Open days at around 70 venues in the 18th and 9th arrondissements. Exhibition-competition of small formats at the main information centre 8, rue Milton,9th.
More details at or on the website: http://www.anversauxabbesses.com
Upcoming Conferences
Living and Investing in France
March, 2006

Details to follow shortly at https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/parlerparis/liveinfrance/index.html
Or contact Project Manager Schuyler Hoffman at [email protected]/parlerparis to be put on a special mailing list.
Living and Investing in France
May, 2006
New Orleans

Details to follow shortly at https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/parlerparis/liveinfrance/index.html
Or contact Project Manager Schuyler Hoffman at [email protected]/parlerparis to be put on a special mailing list.
December 29 – January 2

Join a unique community of artists, engaging in hands-on painting and conversation with internationally renowned trompe l’oeil muralist and educator, Yves Lanthier. An award-winning artist, Yves has created large oil paintings and elaborate trompe l’oeil that adorn the ceilings and walls of many East Coast mansions and Palm beach estates, including Celine Dion’s estate in Jupiter, Florida
FPI Property Consultation, Search and Relocation Solutions
Let French Property Insider expert property consultants find your dream home in France for you. We consult with you to help you make the best decisions, ferret out the finest properties to meet your criteria, schedule the visits and accompany you, negotiate with the agencies and owners, recommend the notaires and other professionals, schedule the signings and oversee the purchase with you from start to finish! You could never do it so easily on your own. Let us take the time and effort off your hands.
FPI Offers More Relocation Solutions!
Let our experienced relocation expert help make your move easy and hassle-free. We offer complete property and relocation services normally only provided by employer hired relocation firms…but at a price much more affordable for individuals.
Solution #1: Property Consultation and Search Services
Solution #2: Purchase Assistance
Solution #3: Getting a Mortgage in France
Solution #4: Property Appraisal Service
Solution #5: The “Après Vente”

Apartments for Rent: Long-Term

To book your services, click here:

To download a free brochure, click here



Visit the FPI Web site and click on the link on the left panel “Click Here for Currency Convertor by Moneycorp” for up to the minute conversions of all major currencies.
Compare currency values easily and quickly by visiting: https://adrianleeds.com/frenchproperty/loan/moneycorpconvertor.html
Charts http://www.Moneycorp.co.uk/members/charts.asp The charts below are updated every ten seconds.
The prices shown are “inter bank” exchange rates and are not the rates that you will be offered by Moneycorp. Your rate will be determined by the amount of currency that you are buying. Please speak with an Moneycorp dealer or your consultant for a live quotation.


Parler Paris Après-Midi

NEXT MEETING: December 13, 2005 AND EVERY SECOND TUESDAY OF THE MONTH, 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.
This is your opportunity to meet every month, often with local
professionals who can answer your Working and Living in France questions. You are invited to come for drinks and share your questions and comments about what it takes to create a life here, own property and enjoy what France has to offer. It is also an opportunity to network with other Parler Paris readers.

Upstairs at La Pierre du Marais
96, rue des Archives at the corner of rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris
Métro Lines 9, 3 et 11, stations Temple, République or Arts et Métiers

HOT PROPERTY PICKS: The “Nouvelle” Ninth
Each week French Property Insider features a range of properties which we believe are on the market at the time of writing. These properties are featured in order to give readers a sample of what is currently available and a working example of prices being asked in various regions of France and districts of Paris.
As we are not a real estate agency. These properties do not constitute a sales listing. For those readers seriously interested in finding property in Paris or France. you can retain our services to do the whole thing for you. For more information, visit https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/frenchproperty/insider/propertyconsultation.html
*** Paris, 9th Arrondissement, 3 rooms, 80 m²
In a beautiful 1850 building, this lovely apartment has a large living room, superb dining room, equipped kitchen, bedroom and 1 bathroom. With high ceilings, wood floors. On the second floor.
Asking Price: 480,000 Euros + 2.5% Finder’s Fee


*** Paris, 9th Arrondissement, 3 rooms, 72 m²

In a quiet location and offering an open view, this apartment has a living room, dining room, separate kitchen, 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom and 1 toilet. Also has a fireplace and cellar.
Asking Price: 494,000 Euros + 2.5% Finder’s Fee

*** Paris, 9th Arrondissement, 3 rooms, 96 m²
This 3 room apartment in a quiet environment, has a living room, kitchen/dining room, plus 2 bedrooms 1 bathroom and 1 toilet. It’s located on the first floor.
Asking Price: 550,000 Euros + 2.5% Finder’s Fee

Paris Auctions
Next sessions: December 13, 2005, 2 p.m.
Notaires de Paris
Place du Châtelet
12 avenue Victoria
Paris 1st

ditional information on Les Ventes aux En
chères des Notaires can be found on the website at http://www.encheres-Paris.com/ Though the site has a button for an English version, it isn’t reliable to work.

To read Schuyler Hoffman’s article about the property auctions in Paris, click on:

3 rooms 67 m²
60 rue de la Roquette
75011 PARIS 11th
Starting Bid: 280,000 Euros
Deposit: 56,000 Euros

2/3 rooms 102,70 m²
22 avenue d’Eylau
75016 PARIS 16th
Starting Bid: 460,000 Euros
Deposit: 92,000 Euros

Let us help you secure a mortgage in France with interest rates as low as 3%. Visit https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/frenchproperty/loan for more information.

Don’t forget that with your FPI subscription you are entitled to a discount on the purchase of any Insider Paris Guides. You’ll find details of the guides at http://www.insiderparisguides.com/. When ordering, a box will pop up allowing you to enter the following username/password

Order more than one guide at a time and you will receive an additional discount!

Username: propertyinsider Password: liveinfrance



To access password protected pages: click on any of the links on the left panel of the home page of FrenchPropertyInsider.com under “Subscriber’s Only,” then type in your personal username and password.

Past issues of FPI are available on the website. You will find the
“Past Issues” link on the left under “Subscribers Only” or by going to

To receive your free French Leaseback Report or the Paris Property
Report, click on


1 square meter = 10.7639104 square feet

1 hectare = 2.4710538 acres

For more conversions, refer to: http://www.onlineconversion.com/



Leeds Marais Apartment
Available in its entirety November 22 – 28, 2005

Located in a 17th century Le Marais Hotel Particulier, this 70 square meter two-bedroom apartment with lots of light is nicely furnished and is perfect for up to four people when rented in its entirety or a single woman in the freshly renovated guest room when owner Adrian Leeds is there.
Pictures and more details available at


For all short term rental apartments in Paris, take a look at https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/parlerparis/apartments or https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/frenchproperty/insider/longterm.html for long term apartments.



If you’re not a regular reader of the Parler Paris daily e-letter, and would like to be, simply enter your e-mail address here (it’s free!): http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis


Copyright 2005, Adrian Leeds Group, LLC


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