A Grand Return to Life in Paris

I feel as if my life is back. The only things left for which we must find a place are the boxes and boxes of paper files that were once in their rightful place in the custom-built cabinetry, but now have no place to go, other than the “cave” (cellar). We need time to go through them, sort them and take them down—which won’t happen right away, but soon! (Fortunately I have a very large cave that is fairly dry.)

Getting my life back meant actually leaving home to do something other than unpacking boxes. High on my list was to go to an art exhibition. The cultural Mecca that Paris is, is not lost on me. It’s a big reason I moved to Paris to begin with—to get my “fix” of art. So another art-lover friend and I walked into the Grand Palais Saturday afternoon for the whimsical, wild, and absolutely rebellious exhibition of Niki de Saint Phalle, Jean Tinguely, and their visionary accomplice Pontus Hultén. This is one of the “juiciest” slices of Paris culture currently on the menu (on till January 4, 2026).

I wouldn’t call it “pretty,” but yes, it might get your juices flowing. Niki and Jean were more than just artists—they were co-conspirators in life, love, and play. She, with her voluptuous, larger-than-life “Nanas,” exploding paintings, and unabashed feminist fire. He, with his clanging, moving contraptions that feel like they might just rattle apart before your eyes. And then there was Hultén—the Swedish curator who saw the genius in their madness and gave it the stage it deserved.

What makes this show so delicious is the way the Grand Palais brings it all together: the irreverence, the joy, the destruction-turned-creation. You wander through an explosion of color, sound, and movement. One minute, confronted by Niki’s unapologetic femininity, the next enchanted (or startled!) by Tinguely’s machines that seem to mock the very idea of fine art.

And yet, the common thread running through it all is their deep belief that art wasn’t meant to sit quietly on a wall or in a gilded frame. It was meant to live, breathe, move, rebel—just as they did.

So, if you want to understand not just post-war European art, but the joie de vivre and “esprit frondeur” (rebellious spirit) that makes Paris, Paris, this is the show. It’s bold. It’s cheeky. It’s everything we love about this city wrapped up in one very grand exhibition. And it’s at the newly renovated Grand Palais.

That’s the part I loved best…stepping into a Parisian masterpiece that seamlessly blends history with modernity. That’s the allure of the newly restored Grand Palais, a monumental feat of architecture and design. After a meticulous €486 million renovation led by Chatillon Architectes, this iconic venue has been transformed into a vibrant cultural hub, ready to captivate visitors once again.

Originally constructed for the 1900 Universal Exposition, the Grand Palais has long stood as a symbol of French grandeur. The recent restoration, completed in 2025, has breathed new life into its historic structure. The once-cluttered central nave has been cleared, revealing its expansive volume and intricate ironwork, allowing natural light to flood the space. This openness enhances the visitor experience, offering unobstructed views of the magnificent glass roof and the surrounding architectural details.

The restoration also focused on accessibility and functionality. The introduction of 40 new vertical circulations, including elevators and freight lifts, has improved the flow of visitors throughout the building. Additionally, the installation of radiant heating systems beneath the floors ensures a comfortable environment year-round. These modern upgrades are thoughtfully integrated, preserving the building’s historical integrity while meeting contemporary needs. It was a pleasure to lock away our belongings in any one of the sea of lockers on the lower level, simplified by just locking it up and taking the key.

There’s a boutique at the end of the exhibition focused on goodies related to Nikki, Jean and Pontus, but on a lower level is a more expansive boutique with beautiful things, not inexpensive, however. (It all supports the museum.)

Outside, the Grand Palais’s grand façade has been meticulously cleaned and restored, showcasing its sculptural details and ornate features. The surrounding gardens have been landscaped to complement the building’s elegance, providing a serene setting for visitors to enjoy. There’s a simple café on the level they call “1.5”—what is a.k.a. “entresol”—the mezzanine level between the ground floor and the first floor. But the best offering for a lunch or snack before or after the exhibition is at La Brasserie Le Grand Palais just steps away on avenue Franklin Roosevelt.

Whether you’re an art enthusiast, history buff, or simply a lover of beautiful architecture, the newly renovated Grand Palais offers a fresh perspective on one of Paris’s most cherished landmarks. It’s a testament to the city’s commitment to preserving its heritage while embracing the future and this exhibition is one great way to take it all in. It brought me back to Paris life!

A la prochaine…