Happy Bastille Day!

THE FIREMEN’S BALLS

Yes, the French firemen have balls. If you’ve never danced the night away with a French firefighter, then “mon dieu,” you are missing out on one of France’s most beloved, most endearing, and dare I say, most titillating traditions. (These guys are famous for being some of France’s most handsome and virile men!)

Every July 13th and 14th, as the nation prepares to celebrate La Fête Nationale (what we call Bastille Day; though the French never do), the fire stations of France throw open their doors and transform into some of the most unexpected and fabulous party venues in the country. I’m talking about the Bals des Pompiers—and in 2025, they were reportedly hotter than ever (pun absolutely intended).

Here in Paris and throughout the Hexagon, these hunky heroes trade their hoses for DJ decks and drink stands, inviting the public in for a night of music, dancing, revelry, and cheeky charm. The atmosphere is pure “joie de vivre”: part village “fête,” part underground nightclub, part fundraising gala… and 100% “très français.” You can toss a few euros into the boot (or the barrel!) for a glass of rosé, a crêpe, or just the pleasure of supporting your local “caserne” (fire station) and don’t be surprised if a fireman asks you to dance.

This year, 2025’s edition saw the return of all the classic venues—Caserne de Sévigné in the Marais, which I have frequented many times, was as packed as ever, with lines down the block and energy to match any “boîte de nuit.” I heard that Champerret in the 17th went full disco mode with lights, fog machines, and shirtless waltzing firefighters (yes, really).

I’ve danced at several casernes over the years, but my favorite venue is just steps from home on the “parvis” of the Mairie of Paris Centre in the 3rd arrondissement. Sunday evening we headed to the Eugène-Spuller square for the two concerts and plenty of revelry. On the program was Batucada for 7-8 p.m. and then from 8 p.m. to midnight was the DJ Set.

The entire neighborhood comes out to dance, old and young alike. At midnight they toss confetti from the windows of the Mairie and we leave covered in our own happiness.

Whether you’re a Parisian by birth or a visitor on a July holiday, this is a tradition you simply must experience at least once. Bring your friends, bring your dancing shoes, and don’t be surprised if you leave a little tipsy, a little starry-eyed, and already planning for next year.

For more information in preparation for next year (!), visit parisjetaime.com.

PICNICKING ON THE CHAMP (OR THE PLACE)

Almost every year I’ve trekked down to the Champ de Mars in the afternoon of the 14th of July with friends to spread our blankets and picnic fare for a day-long anticipation of the fireworks that light the sky over the Eiffel Tower. People gather “petit-à-petit” (little by little) until the entire field is wall-to-wall with other picnickers doing the same thing. As the day progresses, we watch the sun go down creating minute-by-minute changes in the perspective of the tower silhouetted against the sky. When the sun is fully down and the sky black, the fireworks begin and knock our socks off by their beauty. Paris July 14th fireworks are the best in the world (my opinion)! There is nothing quite like seeing them against the silhouette of the La Tour Eiffel.

But, not this year. This year we have a baby in tow and that changes our ability to last as long as eight hours on the grassy plain. In exchange, later today we’ll picnic on the Place des Vosges for a couple of hours then head home to put Little Leeds to sleep while we watch the fireworks on TV.

C’est la vie with a new family.

GET READY FOR THE NICE JAZZ FESTIVAL

If you haven’t yet marked your summer calendar for the Nice Jazz Festival, then you’re missing out on one of the Riviera’s most thrilling and timeless musical affairs. Born as the oldest jazz festival in the world—yes, really—it has been lovingly shaken, stirred, and transformed over the years into a modern-day marvel of music.

What began as a dream to revive and refresh this legendary event has become a brilliant reality. Today, it’s one of the must-see festivals in all of France, boasting performances that span the best of jazz and the freshest sounds in contemporary music.

Its two iconic stages—Place Masséna and the Théâtre de Verdure—have seen the likes of Herbie Hancock, Jamie Cullum, The Roots, Massive Attack, Earth, Wind & Fire, Mary J. Blige, Iggy Pop, Tom Jones, Ben Harper, and even the Black Eyed Peas (yes, you read that right!) take center stage to the delight of over 40,000 Niçois and international fans every single year.

And the lineup doesn’t stop there: from Angèle and Orelsan to Kamasi Washington, Brad Mehldau, Avishai Cohen, and Omara Portuondo—it’s a veritable who’s who of musical genius.

So, if you’re lucky enough to be in Nice this summer, do as the locals do: grab your straw hat, your dancing shoes, and head to the heart of the city for five days of soul-stirring rhythms, Riviera breezes, and unforgettable memories. The Nice Jazz Festival isn’t just about music—it’s about living the joie de vivre, one note at a time.

And trust me, this festival isn’t slowing down anytime soon. The only question is: will you be there? I will…for at least the first night…then back to Paris to say so-long to my daughter and her son who return to the U.S. after three months of the summer together.

NOTE: The Nice Jazz Fest offers seven concerts per evening starting at €32. The ticket office opens at Place Masséna Saturday, July 12th:

Hours from July 12-23:
1 p.m.-7 p.m. on weekdays and 11 a.m.-7 p.m. on weekends
Hours from July 24-27:
10 a.m.-11 p.m.

Tickets can be purchased with cash, credit cards, vacation vouchers, and Pass Culture.

For more information, visit nicejazzfest.fr.

A la prochaine…