Twenty-Nine Years and Still Counting

Twenty-Nine years ago today, I was liberated. My marriage of 17 years ended with a bang—the kind of bang one never forgets. Not only do I not forget it, but ever since that day, have made a point of celebrating it. Like Passover commemorates the Exodus, when Moses led the Israelites out of Egypt after centuries of bondage, “Artichoke Day” commemorates the day I took my life into my own hands and said so-long to being one-half of something, instead of a whole.

What prompted that particular moment on February 2nd, 1997 were artichokes. It’s a long story that was written down as part of a memoir started in 2015..that now sits in the drawer waiting to be resurrected and completed. It wasn’t even something that I had said that broke the husband-camel’s back—it was my visiting sister who very innocently questioned how many artichokes he purchased when we instructed him to buy only five…and the bags he carried in were huge and stuffed.

Silly as it may sound, that’s when 20 years of being a twosome ended. By the end of August of that year, we were fully divorced, and Erica and I were living in our new apartment in Le Marais…on our own. David subsequently remarried, divorced again, then headed back to the U.S. (Sadly, he passed away on November 1st, 2025, at the age of 84. He has been forgiven now for all of his “transgressions.”)

We didn’t make the artichokes that fateful day, but every February 2nd since then, I make them for a small group of close friends. Tonight is our Artichoke Seder!

The recipe was my mother’s—a typical New Orleans recipe with Italian roots. It’s easy and they are delicious. Scroll to the end of this Nouvellettre® to have the recipe.

HOUSE HUNTERS IN LYON: AN INVITATION TO MEET WITH ME!

Later this month, I’ll be filming my 59th House Hunters International episode, this time in Lyon. I haven’t been to Lyon in a long time, so it’s time for a refresher.

I invite you readers who live in Lyon to meet me on Sunday, February 22nd, mid-afternoon at 3 p.m. at Le Grand Café des Négociants in the Presqu’île (1 Place Francisque Régaud, 2nd) for a drink and a conversation. I want to learn more about Lyon, about you and why you love (or don’t love) the city!

If you can come, please RSVP.

Looking forward to getting to know all of you!

THE BHV AND LE BIJOU

I have always loved the BHV, aka the Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville department store, located across from the Paris City Hall, or Hôtel de Ville. It has been a quietly indispensable Parisian institution: a practical, democratic department store serving locals as much as visitors, with the basement level one of the most remarkable DIY’s in the world. The only thing it’s missing is, and I swear this is true, the kitchen sink.

But in recent years, the BHV has found itself navigating turbulent waters. The arrival of Shein, the ultra-fast-fashion giant, as a physical presence inside the store marked a sharp departure from its traditional identity. What was intended as a bid to boost foot traffic instead triggered public backlash, petitions, brand withdrawals, and uncomfortable questions about sustainability, heritage, and the future of French retail. Rather than revitalizing the store’s image, the episode underscored the challenges facing legacy department stores in a changing retail landscape.

Walking through the store recently made me cry. The big cosmetic and perfume retailers on the ground level have flown the coop. They had little to sell, filling the space with anything they could get their hands on. It was tough to swallow.

Then, there was a lot of speculation as to what would happen to this icon in Paris, including Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo wanting to build social housing in it. Seriously?? What a putz.

Following the sale of BHV’s building to global investment firm Brookfield Asset Management, plans have emerged to radically rethink the site. The proposal: reduce the retail footprint and transform part of the historic building into a luxury hotel, potentially occupying the upper floors, while preserving a scaled-down commercial presence at street level.

Now, I like that! If realized, this transformation would place the BHV squarely within a broader Parisian trend: the conversion of large, historic retail spaces into mixed-use destinations, blending hospitality, commerce, and prestige real estate. Supporters see an opportunity to breathe new life into a landmark property although critics worry about yet another step away from everyday Paris toward a city increasingly shaped by tourism and luxury.

It’s true. Paris IS the most visited city in the world, and let’s face it, what’s more synonymous with luxury than Paris? How can we stand in the way? (If you’re Anne Hidalgo, you might try.) Nonetheless, the Shein controversy and the hotel project tell a larger story. The BHV is no longer just a department store struggling to adapt—it has become a symbol of the crossroads at which Paris itself stands: between tradition and reinvention, local life and global capital, retail utility and experiential luxury.

One thing is certain: whatever form it ultimately takes, the BHV as Parisians once knew it is already changing. I am saddened by that, but look forward to an even brighter future.

And for us this is really important, because we’re about to launch “Le Bijou de l’Hôtel de Ville.”

I set out to find a jewel of a studio apartment in central Paris that would be the perfect answer as a Fractional Ownership property with 13 4-week shares. This isn’t easy, mind you. While there may be a sizable inventory of apartments from tiny (10–15 m²) to Standard (20–30 m²) to larger (30 m²+), those that I might consider are one in a thousand because it has to be a JEWEL. AND I FOUND IT.

Located on rue du Temple at the back corner of the BHV, steps from the Hôtel de Ville with views from the windows of the City Hall, Notre Dame de Paris and of course the BHV—not to mention the pedestrian part of rue du Temple (a Métro entry is just there)—the large studio apartment fit the bill.

The building is a 6-story residential and commercial building built around 1930, with about 18 apartments plus commercial spaces at the ground level. It was just sold in late 2024 after nearly 100 years without a sale—marking a new chapter for the property. According to urban-planning filings for the property, the project wasn’t a full demolition and reconstruction—it was a significant rehabilitation of the existing building that included structural refreshes (roof and floors), full façade restoration, and modernization of exterior elements like windows and chimneys. What this means is that everything in the building is new, but it maintains it’s historic and intrinsic value.

Rue du Temple is not just a street—it’s a tapestry of Parisian history. Named for the Knights Templar and tied to one of medieval Paris’s most powerful institutions; shaped by centuries of urban change—medieval lanes, classical hôtels particuliers, and 19th-century urban planning. Today, it connects major civic points like the Hôtel de Ville and Place de la République and remains a vibrant urban artery.

Owning a property on this street at this location simply doesn’t get better. If you want to really feel connected to the City of Light, this is where you will want to be. And at this part of the street, it’s pedestrian, so you won’t hear traffic noise…just the sounds of the people below.

The apartment is 25m2 (270 square feet) on the second floor, with an elevator, with two large windows overlooking the street. We will renovate it and decorate it to the highest of standards and quality, with that magic touch of Martine di Mattéo—the best designer in Paris. It will be outfitted with twin beds that convert to a single queen-sized bed so that you’ll have your choice (sleeps two). The kitchen will be fully equipped with a stove, microwave/oven, washer/dryer, refrigerator and all of the fixin’s. The bathroom will have all the best and finest of fixtures. The windows will be doubled-paned to keep out the noise. And, we’ll ensure there is air-conditioning for those few weeks a year it gets warm.

Owners will have four weeks a year based on our fully rotational calendar, just like our other Fractional Properties. The price? We haven’t set it yet because we’re still working on the budgeting, but we expect it to be somewhere between 65,000€ and 85,000€ per share—highly affordable!

Of course we’ve called it “Le Bijou de l’Hôtel de Ville.” (BHV!)

It’s the perfect answer for our clients and friends living in other parts of France, or anywhere for that matter, who want their fix of Paris from time to time.

Think you might want a share? Better get on our special mailing list NOW! Very soon we will be launching it. Those on the mailing list will be the first to know about it. It will be sold on a first-come, first-serve basis, so the sooner you put in your name/email, the better. Email us now to let us know!

GERT BEERMAN’S AND ADRIAN LEEDS’ ITALIAN ARTICHOKES

Prepare the artichokes: cut off the stem, chop off the top of the artichoke and trim the points of each leaf with scissors. Wash and place them in a big pot or roaster with a small amount of water in the bottom. Cover.

Steam: Steam them on medium heat for at least one hour, more or less depending on the thickness of the leaves.

Meanwhile prepare the dressing: 1/3 vinegar and spices, 2/3 olive oil—mix a variety of vinegars (I like Balsamic, red wine, white, apple cider) with salt, pepper, lots of oregano and tons of chopped garlic (never enough!). Be heavy handed with the spices. Then, add olive oil. Shake or stir well.

Note: the dressing is to your taste…so be creative!

Final step before serving: When the artichokes are steamed to perfection, drain off the water and pour the dressing over them while they’re hot, ensuring that the dressing is filling the leaves. Cover them to keep warm and then marinate them with the dressing as often as you can for as long as you can. I use a turkey baster to do the job. Eight hours is best. (The aroma will fill your home delightfully.)

Voila! They’re ready to serve and eat at room temperature.

A la prochaine…