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Viva la Reine!

Frieda Kahlo float in the Nice Carnaval Parade 2026

CARNAVAL IN NICE

No, I didn’t spell it incorrectly. In English, the word is “carnival” and in French, it’s “carnaval.” This year’s edition, “Vive la Reine”/“Long Live the Queen!,” February 11th till March 1st, highlights the remarkable lives of women, celebrating their strength, courage, creativity, and influence, paying tribute to the great heroines—real or fictional—who have lived through the ages and centuries and continue to inspire. There is no king this year…only a queen.

This is the carnival’s 153rd edition with 13–17 major floats built for the parade and the Batailles de Fleurs (Flower Battles), each elaborately decorated and animated to reflect the theme. La Reine Gaïa—the central float symbolizing the fertile Earth Mother and the origin of life; conceived as a powerful, queenly figure from nature. Other floats in the lineup portray female heroes and figures—the princess of serenity, the Roman soldier woman, and other female archetypes—each crafted to highlight strength, courage, creativity and influence. The floats are not just static decorations, they are mechanized, towering creations (8 – 20 meters tall) with moving parts and detailed artistic features that come alive along the parade route.

Photo by Barb Westfield

Photo by Barb Westfield

Photo by Barb Westfield

Photo by Barb Westfield

Photo by Barb Westfield

Photo by Barb Westfield

I chose to not be an official spectator this year, but my friend, Barb, had the bright idea to book dinner on the night of one of the parades at the rooftop restaurant of the Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel from which we’d be able to see the parade from on high.

Dessert at the Anantara

Dessert at the Anantara

It was cold, even on the heated terrace, but the views were spectacular and the food exceptionally delicious (be prepared to spend about double a meal in any other standard restaurant in Nice). Looking toward Place Masséna, we could see images on the big screen and the floats going by, but it was a bit far for reasonable view. By looking over the railing, we could see the parade lining up and then making it’s way down Avenue de Verdun. Naturally, we didn’t stay for the entire parade, but got a glimpse and that was enough for two seasoned Carnaval-goers such as ourselves! And the dinner at the Anantara was a perfect way to have it all.

FRANCE STILL NUMBER ONE DESTINATION

According to the government website, published just this past week, France remains the world’s leading destination in 2025. With 102 million international visitors in 2025, France confirmed its position as the most visited country in the world and records a sharp increase in tourism revenue.

This performance is based in particular on the country’s cultural and heritage attractions, the diversity of its territories—both in mainland France and overseas—the quality of its accommodation and transport infrastructure, the organization of major international events. France thus remains the most visited destination in the world, ahead of its main international competitors.

Beyond visitor numbers, revenue from international tourism will see another massive increase in 2025 (+9% compared to 2024). France will record €77.5 billion in international revenue, an all-time high.

In comparison, the U.S. tourism sector has seen a mixed picture in 2025. Foreign visitor arrivals to the United States fell in 2025—estimates vary between a 6% drop and notable declines compared with 2024. Some detailed forecasts project an 8.2% reduction in international overnight arrivals for the year. Monthly border data indicated a decrease in foreign visitors in the latter part of 2025 compared with previous months.

We all know why. Political and regulatory perceptions (e.g., immigration policy, visa requirements) appear to have dampened demand among some foreign travelers. Declines have been particularly sharp among travelers from key markets like Canada and parts of Europe. Even as domestic travel and outbound U.S. travel grow, international inbound tourism has not fully recovered to pre-pandemic levels in 2025.

THE MAYORAL RACE…IN NICE

I’m shocked. The first poll puts Eric Ciotti well ahead of incumbent mayor Christian Estrosi in Nice in a poll published on Tuesday. With only one month to go before the first round of the 2026 municipal elections on March 15th, the first poll of voting intentions in Nice (Alpes-Maritimes) was conducted by Cluster 17 and published by Politico magazine on Tuesday, February 17, 2026.

Eric Ciotti (UDR, Union des Doites pour la République) leads the voting intentions with 41%, ahead of outgoing mayor Christian Estrosi (Horizons) who obtains 31%, according to the poll, 10 points behind his main opponent. Far behind these two “giants” of this campaign is Juliette Chesnel-Le Roux (United for Nice – PS/PC/Ecologist) with 12%. Next are Mireille Damiano (Nice Popular Front – LFI/Viva!) with 10% and Cédric Vella (Reconquest!) with 4%.

 

(It should be noted that the poll was conducted between February 11 and 15, 2026, among 763 people. The margin of error is between 1.5 and 3.5 points.)

There will clearly be a duel for the mayor’s office in Nice…a duel that seems to be leaning in Eric Ciotti’s favor for the moment, although the Estrosi camp is questioning the poll.

The UDR candidate stated: “I welcome it with satisfaction but also with caution. It corresponds to what I feel in this campaign. There is a desire for change, to write a new positive page.”

When asked, Christian Estrosi’s entourage pointed to a poll from an institute “regularly criticized for its methodological biases and its tendency to overestimate the most radical positions.” They also stated that “we have decided to officially refer the matter to the National Polling Commission so that it can verify: the regularity of the transmission of the notice, the methodological conformity of this survey, and the non-biased nature of the questions asked.”

Julien Picot, second on the left-wing coalition list, notes that “the poll confirms that we are the leading force on the left. We are the only alternative to beat the two giants.” “He added: “It’s not surprising that Ciotti is in first place, as there is a rejection of the current mayor. No matter who we face, we will fight in the second round and try to come out on top.”

The reason I’m shocked and find the poll hard to believe, too, is because other polling referenced in local media from late 2024/2025 indicated that a substantial portion of Nice residents previously regarded Estrosi positively—with figures cited around 60% expressing that Estrosi is a “good mayor” and roughly 30% discontented. These older polls suggest he enjoyed solid personal approval among many Niçois before the latest electoral battle intensified.

Personally, I think he’s the best mayor in France! But, what do I know? Guess we’re going to find out soon which poll was more accurate.

PARIS WRITERS WORKSHOP MAY 31-JUNE 5

Refine your wordsmithing with small group masterclasses taught by award-winning writers in Novel, Short Fiction, Memoir, Creative Nonfiction, Mystery/Suspense, and Screenwriting at the annual Paris Writers Workshop. Benefit from agent consultations, panel discussions on writing tools and paths to publishing, and unique opportunities to exchange ideas and receive valuable feedback on your projects. Register now for the early-bird discount (until March 2nd).

Download a PDF flyer.

Screenshot

Learn more about it on their website.

TRUMPED BY THE POST OFFICE

The reports are conflicting. A friend emailed me this past week that…”As of Feb 11th, La Poste no longer accepts ANY mail going to the US. This includes a simple letter with an international Marianne stamp that is within the weight limit. I had heard this from others and just this morning went to my local La Poste. They weighed my simple letter with the Marianne international stamp; it was within the weight limit and another employee at the counter said that because of the customs and tariff fees that Trump has imposed, they were no longer accepting ANY mail as of Feb 11th. It is unclear if we will be able to receive anything sent to us from the US. The employee told me that this decision could change over time but for the moment it was nationwide.”

In an official announcement the France P.O. declared:

On July 30, the United States adopted an executive order modifying customs procedures for goods shipped to the United States by mail. Goods, which were previously exempt from customs duties up to $800, will now be subject to customs duties from the first dollar, payable to U.S. Customs before the items enter the United States, effective August 29. Despite discussions with US customs authorities, no grace period has been granted to postal operators to organize themselves and make the necessary IT changes to comply with the new rules. La Poste is working closely with the US authorities and postal federations to resolve the issue as quickly as possible. La Poste states that Chronopost is operating normally, as it is an express carrier* not subject to postal customs clearance rules.

La Poste’s help documentation (updated after the changes) confirms that standard Colissimo parcel mail to the U.S. via post offices and relays is no longer permitted under those service conditions because of the new customs regime—though it provides routes for complying with U.S. customs requirements if properly declared.

Personal reports from my staff suggest:

“When I went to the post office, somehow they put Canada with the US address. He said they had to do this now.”

“I was told to choose Germany at the machine in the post office when I sent my family’s birthday cards at the beginning of the month…I still had marked their US addresses…and my sister and mom got their cards this past week!”

And when I sent the Chat GPT information to a friend, she retorted, “ChatGPT should speak to the woman at my La Poste bureau who wouldn’t take my stamped letter today!”

Let’s hope this doesn’t last for long. Ugh.

FILMING IN LYON

Yesterday I took an early train to Lyon, where I am now, as you read this, to film a House Hunters International episode with a young American woman named Leah. Next week you’ll hear all about it!

A la prochaine…

Adrian Leeds at Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel in Nice, FranceAdria Leeds
The Adrian Leeds Group®

P.S. In addition to our property services, we also focus on living in France on a practical level—like moving, renovating, etc. Our website is the perfect place to begin your education into everyday life in France.

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