Life’s a Beach…a New One, or Two or Three

The first thing I noticed had changed in Nice (of which there are always big changes with each séjour here) is that a lot of the private beaches and their restaurants were entirely new from prior to the Covid-19 confinement. Some were establishments that had been icons on the Nice pebbles for a seriously long time (their concessions last for 12 years and then must be renewed), so to see The Lido, The Sporting and The Voilier beaches replaced was quite a shock.

The reasons for the three lots concessions’ (numbers 5, 9, and 10) termination by the administrative courts is unclear, in spite of a lawsuit that waged for six months by the city against them. (See the official report from November 2019 here.)

La Baieta replaced The Lido Beach which is just opposite the Palais De La Méditerranée (Hyatt Regency Nice). “La Baieta” means “the kiss” in Nissart (the French subdialect of the Occitan language once spoken in the city of Nice) and its sign is impossible to read. Bad marketing from my point of view — who can read it, pronounce it or remember it? (I apologize for failing to get a photo of the main sign myself, but here’s a photo of the menu as proof of what I say.)

La Baieta

Le Temps d’Un Eté replaced The Sporting, now run by the Servotel Hotel. Bella Nissa replaced The Neptune Place just opposite the Hôtel Negresco. La Vela replaced The Voilier.

French Riviera Traveller has a great article reviewing each of the new establishments (New Beach Restaurants in Nice) you might want to check out. It says that Les Canailles is “Hands down the most stylish beach restaurant in Nice, the decor here is class all the way. Yes, it is pricy but there are loungers, sunbeds and tables placed right on the jutting pontoon for a total sea experience. On weekend nights there’s live music too.” I’ll have to check it out to see if what they say is true.

I had dinner at the Hôtel Amour Beach just opposite Le Cocodile (number 47 Promenade des Anglais), and found their “Loup Bio Grillé sur Salade de Fenouil” quite delicious and the atmosphere very pleasant. I’d highly recommend it.

Today I have lunch plans with a visiting friend at Le Galet, one of my regulars and favorites, plus the closest to my apartment, making it very convenient. The Gusto Family owns this and several other important restaurants in town: Boccaccio, La Voglia, and La Favola, all known to be well-run. It’s as elegant a dining spot as it gets, even if completely make-shift directly on the pebbles and once lunch is over, we just have to walk to the public beach with our lightweight folding lounge chairs and beach gear, rather than pay the high price of the rented “transats” (chaises longues, or sunbeds).

This summer, I might have to try them all out, one at a time, and see for myself which rate best. One thing for sure, regardless of the quality of their food or the amenities they offer, each and every one of them has the luxury of being on the Baie des Anges and that’s enough to make anyone happy.

Besides, what would Nice be without its famous line-up of seaside restaurants and private beaches? Likely not as nice.