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Herbes De Provence–Paris Pot?


April 1, 2002


Spring has sprung. It’s a stupid old cliché, but true this week
in Paris. Last week I was enjoying the heat and sunshine of
Florida in Delray Beach at the International Living Retire
Oversees Conference.

All this week Paris has been beautifully sunny and warm, but not
quite as sultry as Florida. (No wonder there was a three-hour
wait to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower this past Friday, as
visiting friends reported.) A few Parisians aren’t trusting it
and are still wearing their fur-lined coats, but I quickly
donned my new Florida sandals in honor of the occasion.

The conference in Delray Beach attracted 85 participants from
all over the U.S. to learn about relocation destinations,
investment opportunities and surprisingly, career opportunities
in faraway places such as Nicaragua, Panama, Honduras, Ecuador,
New Zealand and of course, France, among others. Directors of
the International Living offices around the globe gathered to
make presentations on each of their adopted homelands, plus
experts were flown in to tell us about offshore banking,
investing and title insurance.

My presentation on France consisted of 40 images, almost all of
which I had taken myself over the years, designed to prove why
the profoundly rich culture of France offers a quality of life
incomparable to any other destination. It was very easy for me
to speak about France in a loving way and minimize the trials
and tribulations of establishing a life here (learning French,
getting a visa, passing the driving test).

Two intensive days were spent providing information and
answering questions. The participants were overwhelmed with
valuable information, both verbal and printed to take home and
study. Each country office gave away favors and door prizes. I
had a bowl of little packets of "herbes de provence" which
became the big hit of the conference, since it both resembled
and smelled similar to something one might have smoked in the

The next conference of this kind is planned to be in October in
New Orleans. Perfect place to hold the conference–guaranteed
great food, music and weather to accompany it. If you want to be
on a mailing list to learn more about it as the plans take
shape, email Barbara Perriello at
mailto:[email protected]?subject=pparis

Wednesday night upon my return to Paris, I had hopes of finding
a restaurant on rue des Rosiers in the Marais where my daughter
and I could celebrate the beginning of Passover with matzoh-ball
soup and gefilte fish, but all the restaurants were shut tight,
naturally. Rue de Rosiers is the unofficial Jewish center of
Paris with centuries of history-making, great bagels and
challahs and the best falafel stand this side of Jerusalem, L’As
du Falafel.

Instead we took our chances on a tiny spot I had been wanting to
try for eons called "Le Gai Moulin" at the corner of rue du
Temple and rue St. Croix de la Bretonnerie. One narrow aisle,
two rows of tiny tables side-by-side, about 35 happy diners
packed in, 17 euro for three courses and a fun-loving wait-staff
and clientele. See my write-up further down in the newsletter
about "The Happy Mill."

Now my apartment reeks of the smell of grilled sardines that I
cooked up for an Easter Sunday lunch with close friends. For
2.50 euro at Picard Surgeles, you can buy about 16 frozen
sardines in a package. If you’ve never had grilled sardines
(with garlic, parsley and lemon), you’re missing out–and if
you’ve never shopped Picard, you haven’t lived. Picard is one of
those French inventions (like the TGV or the Eiffel Tower) that
good old American ingenuity hasn’t been able to duplicate. With
467 stores in France and the finest quality frozen foods in the
world, it gets my business on a regular basis. (Be sure to try
the New Zealand leg of lamb and the Paella that cooks in 17
minutes.) For more information, visit their site at

Happy Holidays, a la prochaine fois . . .

Email: mailto:[email protected]

P.S. Within the next few weeks, we’ll be launching the "Insider
Guide to Jewish Paris" by Toni L. Kamins, which will have
detailed information about where to find everything Jewish in
Paris. Keep your eyes on or if
you’re interested in being notified the moment it’s available,
please email us at
mailto:[email protected]?subject=jewish_paris.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Parler Paris
Written and Edited by Adrian Leeds

Published by International Living
mailto:[email protected]

Issue Number 32, April 1, 2002

In this issue:

*** See Montmartre from Amelie’s Eyes
*** Loophole to Obtain French Citizenship
*** Another Chance to Test Your Travel Writing Skills
*** Be the First to Rent Our Paris Pied-a-Terre
*** Stunning St.Tropez
*** Two Easy Ways to Rent an Apartment in Paris
*** Stop and Sme
ll the Roses While Practicing Your French
*** Good Atmosphere at The Happy Mill
*** The Best Way to Get Cash

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


"The Montmartre of Amelie Poulain" walking tour by Rose Burke
debuts this Wednesday and I am planning on being there. Hope you
will, too! To reserve your spot, email Bea at
mailto:[email protected] or call

* Rediscover the romantic, authentic and whimsical 18th
arrondissement of Paris by seeing the locations in the quirky
French film "Amelie From Montmartre" led by Rose Marie Burke.

For detailed information, visit

* Take the Literary Tours led by Elizabeth Reichert, author of
"The Writers Insider Guide to Paris", a Vassar/Oxford graduate
in literature. Tours include gossipy anecdotes, recitations of
writers’ works, and biographical tidbits along the way.

You can read more about the "Literary Left Bank" and "Paris is a
Woman" tours by visiting the Web site:

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Jean Taquet continues to help many expats who find themselves in
dire straits while living in Paris. Real problems, practical
answers. Read on . . .


Do you know anything about the ability to have French
citizenship if you are a resident/citizen of a US state that was
part of the Louisiana Territory that Napoleon owned?


Yes–the standard regulation is that foreigners must wait 5
years before submitting a request to obtain French nationality.
But any foreigner born in a country, province, or state that
used to be a French colony (no matter how long ago), can waive
the 5-year residency requirement, provided that the rest of the
requirements are met. What used to be French Louisiana is much
bigger than the actual state. It goes from the gulf of Mexico
around the Mississippi River up to the north of the Quebec

* Jean Taquet is the author of "The Insider Guide to Practical
Answers for Living in France", which contains real-life stories
from those confronted by practical situations that will
inevitably resemble those you might face when living abroad. Let
their situations give you a wealth of experiential information
on which you can build your Paris-life. Read more here:

To read Jean Taquet’s Monthly Column posted each month in Parler
Paris, visit /parlerparis/practicalanswers.html

To subscribe to Jean Taquet’s Monthly Newsletter, email Jean at
mailto:[email protected]

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


With the growing interest in traveling and writing about one’s
adventures, it’s no wonder our two workshops scheduled at the
end of April are fully booked. We’ve added a third session to
accommodate everyone and to avoid using my least favorite
expression in French: C’est complet! (Sold out!)

The Ultimate Travel Writers Workshop III Friday, May 24 through
Monday, May 27, 2002.

Reserve now for this wonderful workshop–fun awaits you with
many well-known and experienced professionals coming together.
Hosted by International Living, you’ll have instruction with
industry professionals and well-known published Paris authors.

Evening events include readings at famous literary cafes, dinner
in an author’s Paris home and add-on events such as dinner at
the historic Le Bouillon Racine, Survival French Workshops and
Literary Paris Tours.

See all the details about this exciting workshop at


ElvesNet Lifestyle Management Company is making a very special
offer to our Parler Paris readers on their Relocation–Getting
Settled Assistance Program.

Order now to start within the next 60 days.

For more information, visit


. . . in the heart of the Saint-Germain-des-Près neighborhood of
Paris on rue Mazarine in the 6th arrondissement.

This is International Living’s very own Paris pied-à-terre i

the finest location possible. You’ll find yourself just one
block from the Seine and Pont Neuf and in the heart of
-Germain-des-Près on a fashionable street lined with art
galleries and boutiques.

For rent by the week or month, you will think you are dreaming
to have this wood-beamed, one-bedroom, beautifully decorated and
completely equipped apartment in a 17th-century building.

$1,300 per week. One week minimum. Booking now as of April 22,

For detailed information, visit our site at
and to reserve, email: mailto:[email protected]

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Make this exquisite contemporary private residence your home
away from home while vacationing in Provence this spring or
summer. Paradise for the person who appreciates fine esthetics,
this restored farm house dating as far back as 1682 is in the
heart of Provence in the green setting of over seven acres of
olive and chestnut trees, terraces and gardens with a private
pool. "La Vernatelle" is less than 20 minutes from Saint Tropez,
but nestled in the forest of La Garde Freinet en Provence.

The grand salon is more than two levels in height with a
fireplace and a dining area for ten. Decorated sumptuously, it
is invitingly accented with grand piano. A library, furnished
with cabled TV for international channels, and a selection of
books and videos, opens to the terrace and garden. The modern
kitchen is completely equipped for gourmet cooking and intimate
dining for six. The covered dinning terrace is perfectly
inviting for meals, large or small, most of the year day or
night and seats ten or more at the large Moroccan, round table.

The three bedrooms all have private bathrooms and terraces. The
house has a total of four bath rooms, seven terraces, a chimney,
a large mezzanine for reading and lounging overlooking the main
living area. The separate reading lounge with TV and a sleeper
sofa gives onto the main terrace and lower gardens. One of the
guest rooms has a twin and full bed for the convenience of the a
visitor who shares the room with a child or third party. The
master suite with two terraces gives onto gardens. The third
guest room gives onto a garden and the stairs to the pool.

The private pool, tucked high above the house, in terraced
gardens appointed with African urns and comfortable lounge
chairs is joined by lighted stone walkways giving views of the
surrounding mountains and vineyards.

Available April 8 through May 2, May 8 through June 21 and after
July 27, the rent is truly a bargain at $5,790 for a two-week

For more information, visit

If you are SERIOUSLY interested in renting this property, please
contact me at mailto:[email protected] to be
connected directly with the owner.

* * * * * ADVERTISEMENT * * * * *


From no-star hotels to five-star palaces, Paris has an
overwhelming selection of places to stay–how can you be sure
you’re getting the best deal you can during your time in this

We’ve identified a handful of exceptional hotels in the most
desirable and central neighborhoods in Paris…all for under

To read more, click here:

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


When you stay in an apartment in Paris, you’ll have all the
comforts of home . . . and get the sense of what it’s like to
really live here. Now, we’re making it easy and simple for you
to find the perfect Paris vacation apartment.

Apartments start at $450 per week for studios and rage to a
3-bedroom apartment in a prime location for $3,900 per week.

We’ve put together a simple online form that you can submit to
several rental agencies at once. It’s easy to do, and it costs
nothing. If our contacts have an apartment that suits your
needs, you’ll hear directly from them shortly after.

Take a look here:

Try it out for your next trip to Paris!

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Matching mid-term apartment rentals (one to 12 months) with
apartment requests is as difficult as matchmaking for a dating
service! We are making it simple and easy for all of you who are
looking for apartments and all of you who have apartments you
wish to rent.

Simply click on and post
your message on ou

r bulletin board.

This service is brought to you by International Living
completely free of charge. Individual letters to our IL Paris
Office may or may not be answered quickly, so please take
advantage of this opportunity.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


These short-term rental apartments are currently available. I am
familiar with these apartments so I personally recommend them
and trust their managers to give you good service.


* Beautiful studio on a courtyard near Le Musee Picasso with
three windows overlooking a quiet, peaceful and romantic
courtyard. It is outfitted with two large, high quality single
beds that together make a King size bed, TV, VCR and films in
English, hairdryer, iron + ironing board, digitcode and intercom
entry, telephone and answering machine, Internet access, Hi-Fi,
safe, kitchenette with fridge, two-burner stove, microwave oven,
coffee maker, toaster and all the basics needed to have a snack
or dinner at home, plus a welcome kit including breakfast basics
and complimentary drinks and French wine. Hand and bath towels
are provided for everyday’s use. 100 euro per day, minimum 5

To inquire about the above apartment, email me directly at
mailto:[email protected] and please be sure
to copy and paste into the email the description of the
apartment. Thank you.


* Rue de Temple large 1-bedroom luxury apartment; $1,500/week,

In the heart of the Marais, Paris’ historical center, this
spacious very upscale one bedroom apartment is perfectly
suitable for a couple with elegant taste. It is located on the
Rue du Temple, right in the heart of the historic Marais
district, well known for its trendy night spots and happenings
all around the clock. This sunny, spacious apartment is located
on the main number 1 metro line at the Hotel de Ville, and is
within walking distance of Chatelet, all Marais sites, St.
Michel, Ile St. Louis, St. Paul and the Louvre. This spacious
one bedroom apartment is located up one flight of stairs. The
living room overlooks the street and you can see the Centre
Pompidou in the distance. The bedroom is facing the courtyard,
for quiet nights. The bedroom has a queen size bed, the living
room has a one person sleeper sofa, the kitchen has a washing
machine/dryer, all modern appliances, and cable tv. Sleeps 2-3

* 1-bedroom loft apartment on rue de Rivoli; $1,200/week,

In the heart of the Marais, Paris’ historical center, this
spacious one-bedroom duplex loft apartment is perfectly suitable
for a couple with trendy funky taste. It is located facing the
Hotel de Ville, Paris’ City Hall, at the entrance to the Marais
district, well known for its trendy night spots and happenings
all around the clock. This well furnished stylish apartment is
located on the main number 1 metro line at the Hotel de Ville,
and is within walking distance of Chatelet, all Marais sites,
St. Michel, Ile St. Louis, St. Paul and the Louvre. This
spacious one bedroom duplex is located on the ground floor and
includes an open staircase leading up to the bedroom and
bathroom on the 1st floor. This comfortable apartment contains a
bedroom with a queen size bed, a trendy living-room, an open
completely equipped kitchen with dishwasher and washing machine,
a redone bathroom, telephone, TV and even a small terrace.
Sleeps 2 people.

* 1-bedroom apartment on rue St. Gilles; $900/week,

Right behind the beautiful Place des Vosges, this apartment is
located in the heart of Paris’ historic Marais district. A quiet
sunny cozy third floor apartment overlooks a courtyard (no
elevator). Recently decorated, in perfect shape, this
"pied-a-terre" contains a bedroom with a queen size bed, a
living-room (with sleeper sofa), an open kitchen area, a modern
bathroom, washing-machine, telephone, TV (with cable). Sleeps 4

* 1-bedroom apartment on rue St. Claude; $800/week,

Very close to the Place des Vosges and the Carnavalet Museum,
this apartment is located in the heart of Paris’ historic Marais
district. A quiet studio apartment facing a church on a quiet
side street, this apartment is perfect for guests looking to
capture a piece of history. The apartment is up two flights of
stairs and has windows in the main room and the kitchen.
Furnished with a number of antique pieces collected by the owner
over the years, the St. Claude is a very unique place. This
"pied-a-terre" contains a bedroom with a double bed, a
living-room with cable TV, a full kitchen, a modern bathroom,
washing-machine/dryer and telephone, Sleeps 2 people.

To inquire about any of the above apartments, email me directly
at mailto:[email protected] and please be
sure to copy and paste into the email the description of the
apartment. Thank you.


* Rue Livingstone Penthouse Studio, available April 2 – 22;
reduced from $1,000 a week to $850 a week.

This beautiful and completely renovated apartment is located on

he 7th and top floor (with elevator) of a typical 1930’s
Parisian building with a spectacular view of sky, Parisian
rooftops and all of Basilique Sacré-Coe
ur. Perfect for a couple
with a child or three friends traveling together.

To inquire about any of the above apartments, email me directly
at mailto:[email protected] and please be
sure to copy and paste into the email the description of the
apartment. Thank you.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Join the Parler Parlor gang for a picnic at the Bagatelle
Gardens in the Bois de Boulogne June 9th at 1 p.m. It’s one of
our free events just to practice our English or French tongues
and get a whiff of the Bagatelle’s magnificent collection of
newly blossomed roses.

If you don’t already know–Parler Parlor is a great place to
brush up on your French and meet people from all over the world.
Practice speaking 45 minutes in French, 45 minutes in English.
The first session is free and Anglophones benefit from a 10%

No need to call–just come a few minutes ahead:

Parler Parlor
French-English Conversation Group
Tuesdays and Thursdays 6:30 p.m., Saturdays 11 a.m.
Coprom Langues, 14 rue Lafayette, 4th floor, 9th, near Metro
Chausee d’Antin

For more information, visit the site at or email
mailto:[email protected] or call Elisabeth or

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


The Restaurant Pick of the Week is an excerpt from the "Leeds
Good Value Guide to Paris Restaurants":

*Traditional French
*4 rue Saint-Merri, Arrondissement 4
*Métro Hôtel de Ville
*Open Every Day 7 p.m. to Midnight
*17 Euro 3-Course Menu

Established more than 20 years ago as one of the first
gay-owned, operated and gay-friendly restaurants in the Marais,
Le Gai Moulin packs in about 35 diners at two rows of small
square tables squeezed side-by-side. The owner, Christophe, and
his brother, Pascal, wait tables with particularly good humor,
make friends with all their clients and sell T-shirts to Gai
Moulin fans. gay or straight, with the tables so close and the
devil-may-care attitude of the mostly gay clientele, it is
almost impossible NOT to strike up a conversation with your
neighbors and end up in a more animated and party mood than you
entered with. The quality of the food is very correct
considering the price. There is an "entrée du jour," "plat du
jour" and "dessert du jour" to choose from as well as about six
traditionally prepared dishes on the menu. All in all, this is
an excellent bargain for a good meal and a great time.

(To read more about Gay Paris, click here:


* What’s the smartest way to travel with money in Paris? Should
I purchase Euro travelers checks in the US or take cash from an
ATM daily or simply try and use our VISA/MC wherever we go?

Also–coming in from Charles De Gaulle airport with family of
four, is it best to go by taxi or the rail service? Thanks

Mike S.

Dear Mike,

There are automatic tellers in Paris everywhere you turn, so
taking cash as you need it with a credit or debit card is
simple, fast and the least expensive way to get cash. Depending
on the card and the bank on which it was issued, the rate of
exchange and the cost of the transaction is minimal compared to
exchanging travelers checks or U.S. dollars in any cash exchange

To come from the airport with a family of four, I recommend an
airport shuttle service. The one I use and find reliable is
Airport Shuttle. The rates for two or more are 14.50 euro per
person and for one is 22 euro. Children under the age of 3 are
free. Special Rates for groups of 8 or more. There is no charge
for regular luggage. Email them at
mailto:[email protected]?subject=from_parlerparis and be
sure to tell them you were referred by Parler Paris and Adrian

* Hello, I’d like to find work in Paris and can present myself
as either a Canadian or American citizen. Would one make it
easier than the other?

Thank you!


Dear Shannon,

Unfortunately, no. The following is an excerpt from Rose Burke’s
"Insider Guide to Working and Living in France: The Ins and


France’s residenc

y and work rules undoubtedly favor the
employment of French nationals and then citizens of EU
countries. That’s only fair, but France doesn’t want to shut out

all non-European foreigners. To that end, it has special rules
and exemptions for special categories of people: spouses of
French citizens, au pairs, students, the independently wealthy,
executives, managers, owners of businesses, workers at
international organizations and interns. To read more, click

Go to /parlerparis/


If you would like to have your message read by the subscribers
of the Parler Paris Nouvellettre®, please email me at
mailto:[email protected]

If you have links about Paris or France and would like
reciprocal links, please email me at
mailto:[email protected]


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