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Paris Eye Candy


March 04, 2002


Sunday could not have been a more glorious day for a spree through an
open-air market in Paris. The goal: to purchase delicacies for a
Sunday lunch with friends before heading off to an art exhibit.

Approaching the Marche de Neuilly from the Metro Sablons on avenue
Charles de Gaulle, I spotted my buddies from afar, looking like twins
in sunglasses with the sun beaming on their faces, as they sipped on
cafe creme at Durand Dupont (a cafe/restaurant at 14 place Marché
92200 Neuilly sur Seine, tel. 01 41 92 93 00) waiting on me to show

It was the first time I had shopped this market in the "burbs," an
elegant suburban neighborhood of Paris–west Porte Maillot–east of
l’Arche de la Defense. It had been eons since I had marketed this
way, carefully winding the way down each of the aisles, eyeing the
goods, deciding on what treats to take home, negotiating and joking
with the vendors, listening to their pitches. "De la fraise, de la
fraise, de la fraise" one man called out, standing behind a mountain
of the largest, reddest prettiest strawberries I’d ever seen (from
Spain–first ones of the season). "Oui! S’il vouz plait, je voudrais
assez pour trois personnes pour dejeuner!"

There simply is nothing quite like a trip to an open-air market in
France. Every stall is eye candy and deliciously tempting. A vendor
from Bretagne, wearing a black Breton hat (resembling the Amish) sold
"charcuterie" of every species one could imagine and a large array of
pates and terrines. Each item placed purposely to be seductive and
delectable. He made thin slices of a ham we could each taste and his
promotional style worked its charm–we left with lean sliced Bayonne
ham, sausage encrusted in herbes de Provence and terrine d’oie
(goose). After stopping at several other stalls to complete our meal,
we headed home with fresh cooked "bulots" (sea snails), brie, chevre
and sliced parmesan, mixed greens, spicy green olives, roasted
almonds, one single egg for an aioli sauce (yes, you can actually buy
one egg) and of course, the strawberries.

Lunch was a typical French feast, 2 1/2 hours long, one course at a
time, refilling our wine glasses along the way and of course ending
with "la piece de la resistence"–the strawberries. Not only were
they beautiful, they were sweet, juicy and berry-licious.

Paris is humming with markets on Sunday morning. Every neighborhood
has at least one. The largest market in Paris is on boulevard Richard
Lenoir, bordering the 3rd and the 11th arrondissements, starting at
La Bastille, ending at the Breguet-Sabin Metro. There are four aisles
with stalls on each side for blocks and blocks.

Some markets are open six days a week, like the Poncelet-Bayen market
in the 17th which is famous for Aleosse Fromages (considered one of
the best in the city at 13 rue Poncelet), a Daguerre Poissonnerie (up
to 60 different types of fish, at number 4 rue Bayen) and at the same
address, the best roast chicken in all of Paris at the "traiteur"
Philippe Divay, who we affectionately called Monsieur Poulet for

Others are open only two or three days a week and the vendors rotate
from one to another. For a complete listing of the addresses and open
days/hours of the outdoor markets in Paris, visit

The eye candy didn’t end with the market or the meal. Andreas
Gursky’s monumental photos, on exhibit at the Centre Pompidou until
April 29th, are no less a feast than the Marche de Neuilly. The most
celebrated photographer of today, Gursky’s color images are enormous
in scale (some as large as 8′ X 10′) of the Bundestag in Bonn, the
Bourse in Chicago, a 99 Cent Store, an apartment building at
Montparnasse, the dock at Salerno and dozens of other architectural
scenes will boggle your senses. The detail, the colors, the movement,
the proportion–all reflective of the open-air market experienced
earlier in the day.

Don’t miss it!

A la prochaine fois . . .


P.S. To write me directly, please do not hit "REPLY." Simply click on
this email: mailto:[email protected]

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Parler Paris
Written and Edited by Adrian Leeds

Published by International Living
mailto:[email protected]

Issue Number 28, March 4, 2002

In this issue:

*** Experience Amelie’s Montmartre or Hemingway’s Paris
*** Save $200 by March 15
*** The Easiest Way to Contact the Best Agencies
*** USO Bookin’ It and Bakin’ It Up in Paris
*** More Good Theater in Paris . . . in English
*** For Ren

t This Week in Paris
*** Thank God It’s Friday at Parler Parlor!
*** Enjoying Paris with Your Kids


The Parler Paris authors have organized guided walking tours of
Paris–see Amelie’s Montmartre, Hemingway’s or Gertrude Stein’s Paris
through their own eyes. "The Montmartre of Amelie Poulain", led by
Rose Marie Burke, rediscovers the romantic, authentic and whimsical
18th arrondissement of Paris by seeing the locations in the quirky
French film "Amelie From Montmartre." You’ll get a different slant on
this hilly "village," as residents call it. Tours are twice a week,
from Wednesday, April 03. For more information, click here:

"The Literary Left Bank", led by Elizabeth Reichers, begins at the
picturesque Place Monge, and then leads you throughout the Latin
Quarter, into the Luxembourg Gardens, and down toward Montparnasse
where we finish with the famous cluster of literary cafés: Le Dome,
Le Select, Le Rotonde and Hemingway’s favorite, La Closerie des
Lilas. You will see the places where writers such as Gertrude Stein,
Ezra Pound, F. Scott Fitzgerald, bookstore owner Sylvia Beach, James
Joyce, and others, lived out their infamous lives and written words,
changing the face of twentieth-century literature. Saturday, April
27th. For full details, click here:

"Paris is a Woman", also led by by Elizabeth Reichers, starts from
the Palais Royal and ending at the peaceful Place St. Sulpice, our
two-hour tour takes you to the places loved by a handful of women
writers who flocked to Paris throughout the 20th century. We look at
the lives of Colette and Natalie Barney, visit the Hotel where Djuna
Barnes’s Nightwood was set, the home of New Yorker correspondent
Janet Flanner, and more.

Your tour guide, Elizabeth Reichert, is author of The Writer’s
Insider Guide to Paris.

You can read more about this tour, and the other tours mentioned
here, by visiting the Web site:
/parlerparis/guidedtours/index.html; writing to
mailto:[email protected]; or calling

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Yes, France always makes sense. But, right now, it makes more sense
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The dollar has been high against the euro. As I write this, US$1 buys
1.12 euro. A farmhouse…a chateau…even a Paris pied-a-terre is
more affordable right now than it has been in more than a decade.
This is a window of opportunity worth paying attention to.

How about, for example, a two-bedroom 17th-century cottage in a
picturesque little medieval town…for less than $20,000? For more
details, click here now: (if you live outside
the U.S., click here:

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Next month in Paris (April 23 – 26) we’re hosting four days of travel
writing with the experts . . . instructors include Jen Stevens,
Steenie Harvey, Rose Marie Burke, John Forde, Addison Wiggin. Guest
speakers include Polly Platt, Harriet Welty Rochefort, Thirza
Vallois, and Elizabeth Reichert.

Evening events include readings at the Cafe de Flore, dinner at the
home of Adrian Leeds and a farewell dinner at historic Le Bouillon

When you reserve your spot now, you’ll save $200!

See all the details about this exciting workshop at

Plus, take advantage of the SURVIVAL FRENCH 2-day intensive workshop
by Marie-Elisabeth Crochard April 22 and 23

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Would you like a FREE CRUISE along the golden sands of the Chang
Jiang River…a FREE EXPEDITION exploring the ancient palaces of
Kathmandu…or a FREE TREK through primitive jungles on an Amazon

If you ever dreamed about the romantic life of a travel writer,
here’s a very unusual opportunity to actually live it:

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


When you stay in an apartment in Paris, you’ll have all the comforts
of home . . . and get the sense of what it’s like to really live
here. Now, we’re making it easy and simple for you to find the
perfect Paris vacation apartment. We’ve put together a simple online
form that you can submit to several rental agencies at once. It’s
easy to do, and it costs nothing. Take a look here:

Try it out for your next trip to Paris!



Remember the USO?–Bob Hope and Marilyn Monroe entertaining the
troops? Well, the USO is alive and well in Paris, supporting all our
fine military families. Help the USO raise money–head for their Book
and Bake Sale at the American Cathedral on March 16, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Several artists will be exhibiting their works of art in varying
media and they have over 1,000 like-new paperbacks and hardbacks to
sell. Look forward to seeing you there!

Also they are looking for volunteers to show off their cooking
talents by donating homebaked goods. Please contact: Vicky or Linda
Donvez (director) at the USO at 01-40-70-99-86


Dear Conjunction Theatre Company presents:

* FAITH HEALER by Brian Friel with Jean Pierre Stewart, Les Clack and
Patricia Kessler. Directed by Les Clack & Patricia Kessler. March
29th to May 5th every Friday, Saturday, Sunday at 7 p.m.

Ticket prices 20, 13 euro (10 euro group rate). Sudden Théâtre, 14
bis rue Ste Isaure 75018, M° Simplon/Jules Joffrin.

For reservations: 01 42 65 35 00 or
mailto:[email protected]


A two-man comedy with Paul Kesselofski and John Fiske.

"Very, very funny"–The Guardian, England

"Bizarre, surprising and thought-provoking"–Time Out, London

"A treat, better than the movie"–The Stage, England

"Comic Genius"–The Herald, Zimbabwe

March 12th to March 24th at 7 p.m. (Every day except Mondays)

Ticket prices 20, 13 euro (10 euro group rate). Sudden Théâtre, 14
bis rue Ste Isaure 75018, M° Simplon/Jules Joffrin

For pedagogical material see and
for information: 01 42 41 69 65 or mailto:[email protected]


These short-term rental apartments are currently available. I am
familiar with these apartments so I personally recommend them and
trust their managers to give you good service.

To inquire about any of the apartments below, email me directly at
mailto:[email protected]


* Beautiful studio on a courtyard near Le Musee Picasso with three
windows overlooking a quiet, peaceful and romantic courtyard. It is
outfitted with two large, high quality single beds that together make
a King size bed, TV, VCR and films in English, hairdryer, iron +
ironing board, digitcode and intercom entry, telephone and answering
machine, Internet access, Hi-Fi, safe, kitchenette with fridge,
two-burner stove, microwave oven, coffee maker, toaster and all the
basics needed to have a snack or dinner at home, plus a welcome kit
including breakfast basics and complimentary drinks and French wine.
Hand and bath towels are provided for every day’s use. 100 euro per
day, minimum 5 nights.

* Luxury duplex near Le Centre Pompidou of 65 square
meters–Beautifully decorated with early 19th-century French
antiques, it can accommodate four people, has a separate single
bedroom, two single beds in the lounge, a fireplace, a small kitchen
very well equipped on level one. On the second level, there is a the
large bedroom with double bed open to the bathroom that has a large
Jacuzzi. Its windows are overlooking the roofs of Paris with
unlimited view . The flat is very bright and absolutely quiet. It is
outfitted with all the comfort you need for a short stay: TV, VCR,
hairdryer digitcode and intercom entry, telephone and fax and
answering machine, Internet access, luxury Hi-Fi system, alarm
system, cupboards for your clothing. plus a welcome kit including
breakfast basics and complimentary drinks and French wine. From 150
to 200 euro per day depending on the number of occupants. Available
March 8 to 13.

To inquire about any of the above apartments, email me directly at
mailto:[email protected]


* Rue de Temple large 1-bedroom luxury apartment; $1,500/week,

In the heart of the Marais, Paris’ historical center, this spacious
very upscale one bedroom apartment is perfectly suitable for a couple
with elegant taste. It is located on the Rue du Temple, right in the
heart of the historic Marais district, well known for its trendy
night spots and happenings all around the clock. This sunny, spacious
apartment is located on the main number 1 metro line at the Hotel de
Ville, and is within walking distance of Chatelet, all Marais sites,
St. Michel, Ile St. Louis, St. Paul and the Louvre. This spacious one

bedroom apartment is located up one flight of stairs. The living room
overlooks the street and you can s
ee the Centre Pompidou in the
distance. The bedroom is facing the courtyard, for quiet nights. The
bedroom has a queen size bed, the living room has a one person
sleeper sofa, the kitchen has a washing machine/dryer, all modern
appliances, and cable tv. Sleeps 2-3 people.

* 1-bedroom loft apartment on rue de Rivoli; $1,200/week,

In the heart of the Marais, Paris’ historical center, this spacious
one-bedroom duplex loft apartment is perfectly suitable for a couple
with trendy funky taste. It is located facing the Hotel de Ville,
Paris’ City Hall, at the entrance to the Marais district, well known
for its trendy night spots and happenings all around the clock. This
well furnished stylish apartment is located on the main number 1
metro line at the Hotel de Ville, and is within walking distance of
Chatelet, all Marais sites, St. Michel, Ile St. Louis, St. Paul and
the Louvre. This spacious one bedroom duplex is located on the ground
floor and includes an open staircase leading up to the bedroom and
bathroom on the 1st floor. This comfortable apartment contains a
bedroom with a queen size bed, a trendy living-room, an open
completely equipped kitchen with dishwasher and washing machine, a
redone bathroom, telephone, TV and even a small terrace. Sleeps 2

* 1-bedroom apartment on rue St. Gilles; $900/week, $2,750/month

Right behind the beautiful Place des Vosges, this apartment is
located in the heart of Paris’ historic Marais district. A quiet
sunny cozy third floor apartment overlooks a courtyard (no elevator).
Recently decorated, in perfect shape, this "pied-a-terre" contains a
bedroom with a queen size bed, a living-room (with sleeper sofa), an
open kitchen area, a modern bathroom, washing-machine, telephone, TV
(with cable). Sleeps 4 people.

* 1-bedroom apartment on rue St. Claude; $800/week, $2,500/month

Very close to the Place des Vosges and the Carnavalet Museum, this
apartment is located in the heart of Paris’ historic Marais district.
A quiet studio apartment facing a church on a quiet side street, this
apartment is perfect for guests looking to capture a piece of
history. The apartment is up two flights of stairs and has windows in
the main room and the kitchen. Furnished with a number of antique
pieces collected by the owner over the years, the St. Claude is a
very unique place. This "pied-a-terre" contains a bedroom with a
double bed, a living-room with cable TV, a full kitchen, a modern
bathroom, washing-machine/dryer and telephone, Sleeps 2 people.

To inquire about any of the above apartments, email me directly at
mailto:[email protected]


* Rue Livingstone Penthouse Studio, available April 2–22 reduced
from $1,000 a week to $850 a week!!

This beautiful and completely renovated apartment is located on the
7th and top floor (with elevator) of a typical 1930’s Parisian
building with a spectacular view of sky, Parisian rooftops and all of
Basilique Sacré-Coeur. Perfect for a couple with a child or three
friends traveling together.

* Rue Cortot luxury studio apartment, available March 9–15, reduced
from $821 for six nights to $600 for six nights!!

Rue Cortot is a quiet and winding cobblestone street right behind the
famed Basilique Sacré-Coeur, conveniently located for Métro, bus and
taxi use. This luxury studio apartment, located in an early 1930’s
Parisian building, is perfect for a couple or a couple with a small

* Rue Charles Nodier Sacre Coeur 2 bedroom apartment with 2
balconies, available March 6 through 15 and March 23 through 30
reduced from $1,600 a week to $1,100 a week!!

Located in an early 1930’s building, this newly renovated two-bedroom
apartment is located on the 7th floor with a fabulous view of the
Basilique Sacré-Coeur and its gardens. This apartment is perfect for
two couples or a family of five or six.

To inquire about any of the above apartments, email me directly at
mailto:[email protected]


* Rue Vaneau, 47 square meter 1-bedroom apartment on the 5th floor
(with elevator) to accommodate up to 4 people, on a courtyard
(quiet), from April 1 to 30, $1,400/week or $3,000/month.

* Rue Saint-Andre-des-Arts 3-bedroom apartment with 2 baths on the
5th floor (with elevator), available February 21 to March 21,
$2,250/week or $6,000/month.

* Rue de Beaune, 40 square-meter 1-bedroom apartment on the 3rd floor
(no elevator), perfect for 2 people, available March 15 to April 30,
$145/day, $1,000/week, $1,500/2 weeks, $2,000/month.

* Rue des St. Peres, 50 square-meter 1-bedroom apartment with
mezzanine, accommodates up to 4 people, available March 4 to 30,
$200/day, $1,400/week, $2,400/2 weeks, $3,500/month.

To inquire about any of the above apartments, email me directly at
mailto:[email protected]



In honor of our 4th anniversary, on March 16th EVERYONE is inv
ited to
attend the Parler Parlor French-English Conversation Group at 11 a.m.
at Coprom Langues, 14 rue Lafayette, 9th, 4th floor, then have lunch
with us at 1 p.m. at TGI Friday’s, 8 boulevard Montmartre, 9th.

You do not need to be a member to come to the party!

15 euro Per Person Includes Starter (Mushrooms, Caesar Salad or Baked
Potato Soup), Main Course (Hamburger, Jack Daniel Chicken or Ribs,
Chicken Fingers or Chili) and Dessert (Brownies) with Choice of one
Glass of Wine, 25 cl of Beer or Soda.

New members and renewing members can take an ADDITIONAL 10% off their
registration that day. Native Anglophones ALWAYS take 10% off!

To reserve for lunch on March 16th or for more information: Ask for
Elisabeth or Adrian or Email:
mailto:[email protected]

Parler Parlor French/English Conversation Group or mailto:[email protected]


* Hi, I am responding to Corinna’s letter. She said she was looking
for a babysitter while in Paris.

We came to Paris for the first time in October 2001. We brought our
3-year-old. We found that she was quite happy to be in Paris. We went
to the Louvre. She was very interested in the artwork. Of course, we
went to Disneyland. However, I would recommend going to Florida or
California, instead of Paris. (Too much smoke, it’s small, and the
hotel system of checking in is awful). We went to the Palace of
Versailles, which was quite daunting for all of us. We all loved the
Eiffel Tower. Across the street from it, next to the Seine River, is
a carousel. There is also a hotdog stand. We enjoyed watching our
daughter on the carousel, and getting the unusual hotdogs. There are
many things to do with a child in Paris. We found, we only needed to
keep the pace slower. We walked everywhere, and so did our daughter.
She enjoyed the amusing acts on the Champs Elysee. Throwing a coin in
a bucket, then watching a mummy bow, kept her intrigued long enough
for us to look on the map, and figure out where we were! It is
possible to have your 4 year old with you, and still enjoy Paris!

Good Luck and have fun!, Rebecca


Insider Paris Guides will soon be offering THE INSIDER GUIDE TO PARIS
WITH KIDS! Check soon at for more
information. Your suggestions will be very helpful! Many thanks.

* Hi Adrian, I was delighted to read your review of Jacques Melac’s
wine bar. I have a photo essay on the vendange festival there some
years back posted on my Web site I hope
you’ll take a look and let me know how you like it.

Keep up the good work.

Ian McMahan


If you would like to have your message read by the subscribers of the
Parler Paris Nouvellettre®, please email me at
mailto:[email protected]

*** If you have links about Paris or France and would like reciprocal
links, please email me at mailto:[email protected]


If you’re not a regular reader of this e-letter, and would like to
be, simply enter your e-mail address here (it’s free):

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e-letter? Forward it to your friend, relative, or associate!

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Copyright 2002 Agora Ireland Publishing & Services Ltd.

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