Ashes to Ashes, Dust to Dust: Plotting Your Eternity in Paris

In the process of organizing the documents for my application for French citizenship, one of the things required was either a birth certificate or death certificate for my parents. I chose to requisition the death certificates, thinking they would be easier to obtain. It was emotionally difficult to hold these two documents in my hand after receiving from the Louisiana Department of Health — considering that all that remained of my parents were these documents and their bodies decomposing in their graves, side by side, in a New Orleans cemetery.

Yesterday, on “Toussant,” or All Saints Day, as is tradition, I took a bouquet of golden-colored Chrysanthemums, noted for being solely used as funeral flowers in most of Europe, to a grave of choice. After a bit of deliberation, Patty Sadauskas and I decided to visit a cemetery we hadn’t visited before: Picpus Cemetery, the largest private cemetery in Paris, located in the 12th arrondissement between Place de la Nation and Place Félix Eboué (35, rue de Picpus). (There is only one other private cemetery in Paris — the old Cimetière des Juifs Portugais de Paris in the 19th arrondissement.)

We wanted to see certain graves of note: the tomb of the General Gilbert du Motier, Marquis de Lafayette (1757–1834), over which an American flag is always present, courtesy of the local chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution (DAR); and the plot of 1,306 beheaded victims executed by guillotine between June 14 and July 27 July, 1794, during the height of the Reign of Terror. Today, only the descendants of those 1,306 victims are eligible to be buried there. The sister and mother of Lafayette’s wife, Adrienne, who were beheaded, are in the common pit, and Adrienne is buried next to the Marquis.

While laying the Mums on the Lafayette’s grave, I began to realize the importance of the property — the graves themselves, and how while we choose our abodes in life, we must also choose our abodes in death, or at least someone must…that is if not destined for cremation. While a morbid topic, it’s reality that we live and then we die, and how we are disposed of can either be our choice or we leave it to someone else.

In Paris, one starts with the Association Française d’Information Funéraire, a non-profit organization established in 1992, independent of any trade union, federation, corporation or other association, which provides assistance and consultation on burial matters free of charge. Anyone resident in Paris, regardless of where they may have died, has the right to be buried in a Paris cemetery, and of course, you can purchase your plot in advance…this way you get to choose!

Heather Stimmler Hall of Secrets of Paris, said it best about how to go about buying a plot in a Parisian cemetery. Parts of her article is quote here:

    “Only those who live or have lived in Paris, or have family already buried in a Parisian cemetery can purchase a plot. Only the city is authorized to sell plots; they cannot be bought and sold between individuals like property because they are considered “hors commerce.” Within Paris, you can buy a single burial plot (a casket is buried directly in the ground) or a vault destined to receive several family members depending on its size. You can purchase your plot in Paris for 10, 30, or 50 years with the option to renew, or “en perpétuité” (forever). The old family sarcophagi you see in the three historic Parisian cemeteries have survived for so long because they were purchased in perpetuity and — an important point — the descendants are still maintaining them.

    If the plot expires with no renewal (there is a long grace period if the plot is “occupied”), then the plot is sold to someone else. If there’s a body, it’s moved into the ossuary (mass grave) or cremated. Contrary to   what many believe, the city is not responsible for maintaining the plots themselves. This is the responsibility of the families who own them or their designated heirs who are required to clean the graves of moss, dead leaves and shriveled floral bouquets at least once per year. They’re also responsible for any structural issues, such as cracks or, in the case of more elaborate tombs, broken doors or windows. In the case of Jim Morrison’s heirs, they have to pay to clean up all of the graffiti that “fans” leave behind on both Jim’s grave and all of the neighboring graves.

    If no willing heir can be found to maintain the plot, it will eventually be taken back by the city. If it’s a historic monument or chapel, it won’t be destroyed, but any new family who wants to purchase that particular plot will then be responsible for the restoration and maintenance of the cemeteries, this “recycling” is necessary in order to ensure there are always enough places available for the recently departed. There are specific limits to how many coffins can be placed in a tomb, depending on the size of the plot, but there are no limits to urns. Remains from older coffins can also be “grouped” together to create more space.”

    This bit of Parisian real estate is actually on par with the average cost of a square meter anywhere else in the city (Prices have been updated to reflect 2017 prices): €7,764.09/m² (tax included). The minimum size of 1m² is only for coffins that can fit (ie, children), or urns. Most people get the 2m² plot for €15,528.18. If you go any bigger than that, it will cost an additional €15,528.18 per square meter. Of course, that’s for permanent plots. If you’re young and buy now, you’ll probably save yourself (or your family) a lot of money if you live to a ripe old age. If you just go for the 10-year plot, it’s only €812 for the 2m² plot. For €2,790 you can stay for 30 years. For €4,372 you get a half century.

    Those who opt for cremation at Père Lachaise Crematorium can have their remains scattered on a designated lawn, placed in an urn in a private tomb or the public columbarium, or taken “home” by the legal heirs. People in movies are always dumping ashes off the Eiffel Tower or the bridges of Paris, but I don’t think this is actually allowed…and even if it was, I don’t think the tourists standing in line below or cruising along on the Bateaux Mouches would really appreciate the unexpected dusting.”

Note: “Ashes to ashes, dust to dust,” comes from the Biblical text, Genesis 3:19 (King James Version): “In the sweat of thy face shalt thou eat bread, till thou return unto the ground; for out of it wast thou taken: for dust thou art, and unto dust shalt thou return.” It’s for this reason that Judaism is opposed to cremation, as it explains in the Jerusalem Talmud: “You must bury him in entirety, not partially.”

A bientôt,

Adrian Leeds
Adrian Leeds Group

(at Picpus Cemetery)

Respond to Adrian:
[email protected]

P.S. We want to work with you to determine your objectives and parameters for an investment in France–even if it’s a burial plot. It begins with a one-on-one consultation, by phone or in person. You will find this time and small investment in reaching your goals very, very valuable — move ahead in your goals to invest in France, schedule your consultation today! Email [email protected]