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Luxury Living on an Old Paris Street

Volume III, Issue 12

There is a tremendous feeling of satisfaction when we see someone begin at the beginning, trek through the trials and tribulations of the process, only to land not only on their feet, but in a bed of roses.
Such is the case with one of our conference participants who sat at attention through every session last September in Washington, DC at the Living and Investing in France Conference. Not long after saying our “goodbyes,” he contacted John Howell and Co. in London who assisted him in setting up the structure for a purchase of an apartment in Paris, and through all legal aspects, then came to see us to begin the search.
His goal was to find something special that would be an excellent rental investment in the heart of Paris. The first day of visits, he had a “coup de coeur” over an apartment on one of Paris’ oldest streets — rue Quincampoix — just steps from the Centre Georges Pompidou. Being a pedestrian street, it was quiet and unaffected by the hoards just meters away.
The building was stunningly 17th-century manor house and the apartment, redesigned by an architect, had everything one could dream of…two bedrooms, two baths, fireplace, high ceilings, elegant contemporary kitchen and baths, walk-through all-wood “dressing” room, large windows with a lovely view. The two-flight winding staircase charmingly slants to one side so that if you weren’t aware, you might think you were drunk! It oozes charm from beginning to end.
The buyer went through a tumultuous negotiation process, but determined to own the apartment, he exhibited plenty of patience and stamina, never waivering from his goal. Just a few weeks ago, the apartment became his.
The rest of the story lies within this issue…with lots of fabulous photos, taken by the rental agency thrilled to have it on their roster. You will be impressed with what the new owner was able to accomplish in so little time to turn it into a reality — the kind we all dream about. Don’t miss it — it’s the first article.
Tomorrow I am heading by rental car (I consistently find Auto-Europe to have the best rates) with friends for an exploratory Easter weekend in the region of Brittany…so, next week you can expect an in-depth look at “La France Profonde” and some of the exciting properties you might find in the departments of Finistere, Morbihan, Cotes D’Armor and Ile et Vilaine.
I’ll also let you know how the Britanny oysters taste when I return next Thursday…
A bientôt…and Happy Easter!
Adrian Leeds
Editor, French Property Insider
Email: [email protected]
P.S. The rate of exchange has taken a turn for the better in the last day or two — so, now is a good time to “buy forward” and turn your dollars into Euros for a future purchase. Contact Moneycorp for the best way to do this while the going is good…https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/frenchproperty/insider/moneycorpconvertor.html
Volume III, Issue 12, March 24, 2005
In this issue:

* Paris Luxury Living on Rue Quincampoix
* Dans le Noir — Dining in the Dark on Rue Quincampoix
* Paris in the Lead
* Make Yourself at Home in Paris
* Covering Your Healthcare in France
* First You Dream It. Then You Do It: Reserve Now for May 20 – 22, 2005 in Paris
* Today’s Rates of Exchange by Moneycorp
* Our Recommended Lenders
* Paris Property Picks:
* What’s on Auction this April
* Classified Advertising: Seeking Apartments



Setting up Home on Rue Quincampoix
By Adrian Leeds

Just a few steps off Place Georges Pompidou, one of Paris’ busiest spots, lies one of t
he oldest streets in Paris, rue Quincampoix. Once home to the financial district in Paris, Eugène Atget photographed it in 1908, dark, crumbling, void of life.

Not long ago, an attendee of the Living in France Conference held in Washington, DC last fall, came to Paris to seek his “coup de coeur”(love at first sight) and immediately fell in love with a two-bedroom, two-bath apartment at the southern end of this narrow pedestrian street in a 17th-century “hôtel particulier.” An architect had renovated it to a clean and contemporary style.
We could see the wheels turning in the mind of our conference graduate. While the French administration was churning its wheels to deed the apartment over to him, he was busy organizing the new furnishings and decor.
Two-bedroom, two-bath apartments are difficult to find in central Paris and when decorated in good taste, luxuriously, afford the finest rental returns. An added sleeping space, allowing for up to six in the apartment, enhances the rentability even further. The owner’s idea was to add a “Murphy” bed on a wall in the living room to accomplish this unobtrusively.
Rental agents were clamoring for the opportunity to represent this apartment. The owner interviewed a few before signing a contract with “Time and Place,” well known for top-of-the-line quality short-term rental apartments.
Many new absentee apartment owners are frightened by the daunting job of renovating and decorating a Paris apartment or French country home from afar. This new owner had no such fear, using his good judgment to hire a firm in which he could trust to carry out his plans. He chose a firm specializing in “lits escamotables,” woodworking and dressing rooms — “Cesam.”
While Cesam was busy constructing the built-in wall units, the new owner planned to have complete furnishings shipped from the U.S. to be delivered during his two-week stay in the city.
I’ve never before been so impressed with someone’s ability to organize and administrate…not to mention impeccable taste. Within ten days of his stay, he turned a vacuous contemporary space into a sumptuous and elegant abode that anyone would be honored to stay in.
Editor’s notes: Photos taken by Time and Place. For more information or to reserve your stay, contact Rik Gitlin, [email protected]
Living/dining room wall units by Cesam. Contact Claire Sierra, 169, boulevard Haussmann, 75008 Paris, 01 45 61 04 16, [email protected]


Dining in the Dark on Rue Quincampoix
By Harriet Welty-Rochefort

One of the many things I love about Paris is that along with all the traditional monuments and places to go (Napoleon’s Tomb, the Louvre, the Catacombs) there are always new things to do and discover.
Take a recent dinner we had at a newly opened restaurant in Les Halles called Dans Le Noir?. It had to be one of the most unusual and certainly memorable experiences I’ve had in Paris for a long time.
I’d read about this restaurant in a couple of papers and decided to reserve for my birthday. We could have celebrated in a three-star but I was up for something out of the ordinary.
And did we get it!
Before entering the restaurant which is on the rue Quincampoix in Les Halles, we circled the block and checked out the facade. The building is painted white but the windows, instead of highlighting happy chattering diners inside, were entirely blacked out, an omen of what was to come.
Fortunately, inside the foyer, the lights were bright, drinks were flowing, and we did indeed find our soon to be chattering fellow diners. We ordered our drinks and descended to the downstairs lounge where a group of people, presumably the staff, were eating. Nothing unusual in that, except that when one of them got up to leave the table, she stumbled slightly before getting her bearings and continuing on her way. She, like the rest of the wait staff, was totally blind.
Per instructions, after our drink, we made our way back upstairs and were surprised to see how many people had arrived. We put our coats and personal affairs, including glasses (we wouldn’t be needing them) in lockers on the right side of the room, placed our order (we started with terrine, thinking it would be the easiest to eat in the dark and besides, if we couldn’t manage it with a knife and fork we could always just tear off pieces and stuff it into our mouths), and waited to be called.
“Harriet?” the waiter asked. He instructed us to line up Indian file with the other guests at our table. Celine, our blind waitress, appeared from behind a black curtain to reassure us and to tell us she would be taking care of us for the evening. All we had to do was follow her and hang on to each other.
I put my hand on my husband’s shoulders and a rather nervous looking young fellow who had come with his beautiful if somewhat reserved girlfriend put his hands on my shoulders and thus attached to each other, we filed into a room which was not just dark, but pitch black. We are used to being in the dark with little lights on, light filtering through the shutters or the hour of the radio. In this room, there was absolutely no light at all. (One good thing about it was that no one could smoke!)
It’s very strange to be dependent on someone else but we had to be to get to our table and be seated. Once Celine had escorted me safely to my chair, I felt the knife and fork, touched the water and wine glasses, and just to make sure he was in front of me, reached across the table to locate my husband’s face. Satisfied it was HIS face, I started to relax, although I kept waiting for someone to turn the lights on – and it wasn’t going to happen.
================================ Rapidly, the sound level increased measurably. It was as if, having lost our vision, we we
re all compensating by talking loudly. So loudly that several times during the evening there would be a loud “Shhh”. We never knew if it came from a table of guests or if it was the staff.

We hadn’t come to this restaurant for the eating experience, figuring that food would probably be a secondary concern. We were wrong: the terrine, followed by a perfectly cooked sea bream with a Basque piperade (a sweet tasting vegetable assembly of bell peppers and tomatoes, onion and garlic), and the fondant au chocolat were delicious.
My husband admitted he had eaten the terrine with his hands. I proudly stated that I had eaten my entire meal with knife and fork. However, when my napkin slipped off my lap, I let it be and didn’t search for it. Which was too bad because I had slightly missed my mouth with the chocolate dessert. Too bad. I decided to leave my chocolate cheeks and not worry about it. I mean, who was going to see me?
I noticed that one’s priorities are important: my husband managed to pour the wine admirably, following Celine’s advice that we put our fingers in the glass to ascertain the level.
During the meal, we conversed mainly with a gay couple on our left (near the wall, apparently). On our right was a young couple who seemed to be immersed in their own conversation. Strangely enough, at one point, I didn’t hear them any longer, not that I’d heard all that much from them before, and became convinced they were no longer there. But how to know? I decided I’d pat the back of the chair and if I ran into a shoulder or back, would apologize. I didn’t need to. The chair was totally empty and my hunch had been right. How they left I’ll never know for it is impossible to leave without the help of staff. Talk about discreet!
One bottle of wine and much conversation later, we were told that the dinner was over and we would be led back to the light. We emerged, squinting. My husband told the gay couple he had mixed them up. Having caught a glimpse of them before entering the dark, he thought the whole evening long he was talking to the bald Chinese guy when in fact it was the French guy with a nice head of hair. Speaking of hair, the French guy told me he thought my reddish-toned hair was much darker. “Is that your natural color?” he asked. (I told him I couldn’t even remember what its natural color was!) And, after casting a look at my distinguished looking husband who is surely the age of his own father, he apologized to him for some rather risqué comments he said he never would have made in the light!
We all agreed that we had just undergone one of the most incredibly unusual experiences of our lives. Have you ever closed your eyes for a minute or two and tried to imagine what it is to be blind? Imagine doing this for a full two hours. There’s no way it won’t awaken you to what it is like to be in the dark forever, with no lights ever turning on. And it leaves you astounded at how blind people maneuver – how, we wondered, did the blind staff manage to go back and forth to the kitchen and never drop a plate?
The “Dans Le Noir” restaurant also has happy hours, a philosophical café (imagine talking philosophy in the dark), and drinks from 11:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. Judging from its popularity, Dans Le Noir is here to stay.
Restaurant Dans-le-Noir, 51 rue Quincampoix, 01 42 77 98 04
Editor’s Note: Harriet Welty Rochefort is the author of “French Toast: An American in Paris Celebrates the Maddening Mysteries of the French” and “French Fried: The Culinary Capers of an American in Paris.” Both books are published by St. Martin’s Press. Harriet is currently working on her third book about the French. For more information visit https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/parlerparis/books/booksaboutfrance.html
Paris Leads Olympic Bid
BEIJING, March.22 — Paris remains the favorite to host the 2012 Olympics, Ken Livingstone, the mayor of rival bidders London, said on Monday.
He also stressed that London has closed the gap on Paris and is still in the race since “no city is close to a majority on the first ballot”.
British bookmakers William Hill have Paris as 4/7 favorite despite the strikes which disrupted the transport network during this month’s IOC inspection visit.
London’s bid, which endured bad publicity during the inspectors visit last month when Livingstone likened a Jewish reporter to a Nazi concentration camp guard, is 11/8 second favorite.
New York, which has problems over securing its main stadium, is at 10/1.
Madrid and Moscow are the outsiders at 25/1 and 66/1.
Livingstone predicts that London has 25 votes among IOC members, while Paris has 30 and none of the other three bidding cities have more than 20.
However, if London remains in the race against Paris in the final round, most of the supporters for other cities may give their votes to Paris, instead of London.
At Home, in Paris
Barri Klingaman, Special To The Star Tribune
March 20, 2005

My husband, Steve, and I nestled into a cafe, framed by the glow of amber and rose light that filters through the twisting medieval streets surrounding Place de la Contrescarpe. It was here, in this tiny, offbeat village square — home to edgy artists and eclectic misfits — that my love affair with Paris was sparked as a student in the 1970s. What kismet then that it was where Steve and I slipped out of the rhythms of our current life and into the spirit of Parisian joie de vivre.
We emerged from a cross-table kiss to the clang of a French film crew shooting an episode of a popular detective TV series — and were filmed. I hoped my flats weren’t noticeable.
Even with my practical American shoes, we often passed as loca
ls. And we felt the part, because we were renting an apartment just down the rue.

We’d been to Paris together before and had rushed through as many sights and museums as possible. For this trip, taken to celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary, we wanted to enjoy the easy familiarity of having coffee in the same place every day and the simple rituals of shopping, cooking and strolling with no timeline — and no guilt for skipping the Louvre.
The truth is, we stole our anniversary travel idea from our 20-something daughter and her beau, who had spent a week in London and then recovered from the soaring costs (and inconveniences) of hostels and eating out by renting an apartment for two weeks in Paris. As we listened to their tales of cake and music at Parc André Citroën, the eccentricities of timing market day at Place d’Aligre, and other adventures, we realized our youthful travelers had experienced Paris as a local would, and had captured things not found in guidebooks.
Armed with a dusty volume of “L’Essential de la Grammaire Française,” Patricia Wells’ cookbooks, and a “Plan de Paris,” I began the hunt for our own pied-à-terre where we could live like Parisians for 10 days.
I was surprised by the abundant apartment rental possibilities in Paris. We booked a chic loft in the 7th Arrondissement — a block off the Seine, near the fabulous Rue Cler Marke and the Eiffel Tower…Click here to r ead more…

Hints to Great Healthcare Coverage

Have quality healthcare isn’t a luxury, it’s an absolute necessity. Most people moving to France are very concerned about having the right healthcare insurance policy. Choosing the right policy can be very confusing, so it’s vital to understand what will or won’t be available before you commit yourself.
Avoiding payment up front is particularly important for expats who don’t want to be left out-of-pocket after their medical treatment. Many hospitals have arrangements with health insurers so that your expenses are settled directly with the hospital.
Healthcare providers vary in the length of time they take to turn around a claim, so make sure you choose a company that has a good reputation for the efficiency of their claims settlement. Be careful to ensure that there are no age restrictions to a policy — some providers may not accept applicants who are over 65 year old.
Most insurers offer varying levels of geographical cover for you to chose from, the scope of which may affect subscription rates. You may wish to check that your insurer can cover you for treatment required if you’re taken ill outside your normal area of residence. At times, the insurer will allow you treatment outside of France with their advance permission — particularly for a specialized situation.
Check the opening hours of customer service helplines and whether they are open at the weekends. Can you get in touch with their emergency evacuation providers around the clock, 365 days a year? When you are away from home, you need to know that any queries or requests you may have about your cover and treatment can be dealt with.
Make sure you understand fully what is not covered under each policy option as all health insurance policies have some exclusions. Your primary consideration in determining which healthcare provider to chose will be ensuring that you are provided with the suitable level of cover. Often there may not be much difference in policy and price between two insurers. However the services and levels of support they offer could differ immensely.
Recommended insurers for Expats:
Advantage Insurance Associates
E-Mail: [email protected]
17 rue de Chateaudun
75009 PARIS

AARO(Association of Americans Resident Overseas)
Medical Insurance Program
Association of Americans Resident Overseas
34 avenue de New York, 75116 Paris France



First You Dream It. Then You Do it.
If you’ve always dreamed of moving to France, starting a new life in Paris, enjoying a “pied-à-terre” of your own part of the year or investing in property in France, this three-day power-packed conference is a MUST. Hosted by Adrian Leeds, Editor and of the Parler Paris Nouvellettre® and French Property Insider weekly e-zine and John Howell, lead attorney for John Howell & Co., Europe Law, London, these three days in Paris will arm you with all the information you need to make it happen! The line-up for the conference includes lectures, discussions, dinner, cocktails — with well-known Paris, Europe and U.S. -based experts in the fields of:
* Obtaining the Right to Be in France
* Learning the Language
* Starting a Business in France
* Minimizing Your Tax Liability
* Finding, Buying and Owning Property
* Learning About the Leaseback Program
* Renting Your Property for Profit
* Getting a Mortgage
* Protecting from Foreign Exchange Risks
* Best Offshore Banking in the World
* Crossing the Cultural Divide
* Insuring Your Health, Home and Car
* And more!

You’ll have an opportunty to ask questions and learn all you’ll need to know to make your dream come true to live in France or just be a part of the profits on owning property there.
Working and Living in France
May 20 – 22, 2005
Paris, France
Les Jardins du Marais

Click here to learn more:

Reservations and information:
If you’d like to know more about the seminar or reserve your place, email Schuyler Hoffman.

U.S. OFFICE 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Pacific Time
Schuyler Hoffman, Special Projects Manager
Phone 1-310-427-7589
Email: [email protected]/parlerparis

Visit the FPI Web site and click on the link on the left panel “Click Here for Currency Currency Convertor by Moneycorp Global Money Services/Currency Online by Moneycorp” for up to the minute conversions of all major currencies.
Compare currency values easily and quickly by visiting:

The charts below are updated every ten seconds.

The prices shown are “inter bank” exchange rates and are not the rates that you will be offered by Moneycorp. Your rate will be determined by the amount of currency that you are buying. Please speak with an Moneycorp dealer or your consultant for a live quotation.
Let us help you secure a mortgage in France with interest rates as low as 3%. Visit https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/frenchproperty/loan for more information.
Abbey National
David Anderson, Mortgage Advisor
[email protected]

Banque Patrimoine et Immobilier
Stéphane Denner,
ExPatriate & Non Resident Service
[email protected]
[email protected]

Contact Yolanda Robins
[email protected]

Contact Yolanda Robins
[email protected]

Let French Property Insider expert property consultants find your dream home in France for you. We consult with you to help you make the best decisions, ferret out the finest properties to meet your criteria, schedule the visits and accompany you, negotiate with the agencies and owners, recommend the notaires and other professionals, schedule the signings and oversee the purchase with you from start to finish! You could never do it so easily on your own. Let us take the time and effort off your hands.
For more information, visit https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/frenchproperty/insider/propertyconsultation.html or contact Yolanda Robins, [email protected]

Renovating and Furnishing
Your Rental Property in Paris
by FPI

Each week French Property Insider features a range of properties which we believe are on the market at the time of writing. These properties are featured in order to give readers a sample of what is currently available and a working example of prices being asked in various regions of France and districts of Paris.
As we are not a real estate agency. These properties do not constitute a sales listing. For those readers seriously interested in finding property in Paris or France. you can retain our services to do the whole thing for you. For more information, visit https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/frenchproperty/insider/propertyconsultation.html
* Studio on rue du Cherche Midi, 6th
Surface: 26 m2 (LOI carrez)
Floor: 5th Floor, no elevator
Building: 17th-century
Flooring: carpet and Tile
Bath: bathroom with tub, sink and WC (electric)
Kitchen: uUndercounter
fridge, sink and two-burner stove
Exposition: Southwest
Facing: Courtyard
Heat: individual, electric
Asking Price: 200,000 Euros + 2% Finder’s Fee

* 4 Rooms at Saint-Paul, 4th

In excellent condition on the 3rd floor of a Hôtel Particulier, in the heart of the Marais, comprised of foyer, dining room, kitchen, living room, two bedroom, one bath, toilet. Sunny, quiet. Oak parquet flooring, molding, fireplaces, double exposure, lots of storage.
Asking Price: 575,000 Euros + 2% Finder’s Fee


Paris Auctions
Next session:
April 5 2005, 2 p.m.

Notaires de Paris
Place du Châtelet
12 avenue Victoria
Paris 1st

Additional information on Les Ventes aux Enchères des Notaires can be found on the website at http://www.encheres-Paris.com/ Though the site has a button for an English version, it isn’t reliable to work.
To read Schuyler Hoffman’s article about the property auctions in Paris, click on:

3 rooms 61,5 m²
50 rue Raymond Losserand
75014 PARIS 14the
Starting Bid: 218 000,00 Euros
Deposit: 43,600 Euros




NEXT MEETING: Tuesday, April 12th, 2004 AND EVERY SECOND TUESDAY OF THE MONTH, 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.
This is your opportunity to meet every month, often with local
professionals who can answer your Working and Living in France
questions. You are invited to come for drinks and share your questions and comments about what it takes to create a life here, own property and enjoy what France has to offer. It is also an opportunity to network with other Parler Paris readers.

For a detail description of the past meeting and for more information
about Parler Paris Après Midi, visit:

Upstairs at La Pierre du Marais
96, rue des Archives at the corner of rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris
Métro Lines 9, 3 et 11, stations Temple, République or Arts et Métiers



Don’t forget that with your FPI subscription you are entitled to a discount on the purchase of any Insider Paris Guides. You’ll find details of the guides at http://www.insiderparisguides.com/. When ordering, a box will pop up allowing you to enter the following username/password
Order more than one guide at a time and you will receive an additional discount!
Username: propertyinsider
Password: liveinfrance



– To access this password protected page:

The username is: fpisubscriber
The password is: paris1001

If your computer utilizes cookies, once you log into a subscriber only section, the login information will remain active for seven days, after which you will have to login again.

– Past issues of FPI are available on the website. You will find the “Past Issues”link on the left under “Subscribers Only”or by going to https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/frenchproperty/insider/subscribersonly/pastissues/index.html

– To receive your free French Leaseback Report or the Paris Property Report, click on



Single American professional woman seeking furnished studio or one-bedroom Paris apartment with lots of storage, bath tub, proper overn and lots of light for 800 Euros or less per month to rent from May 1 for 6 months or longer. Contact Nancy :[email protected]
Studio Fflorentin
Available March 26 to April 2
Discounted to 80 Euros per night.
Visit https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/parlerparis/apartments/rentals/ebblivingstone.html for more information or email Pascal [email protected]
North American couple seeking inexpensive furnished short-term rental apartment of one-bedroom or larger from May 1 for two to three months while renovations take place on personal residence. Contact Nicole: [email protected]
Leeds Marais Apartment
Available July 22 – August 1, 2005
Located in a 17th century Le Marais Hotel Particulier, this 70 square meter two-bedroom apartment with lots of light is nicely furnished and is perfect for up to four people when rented in its entirety or a single woman in the freshly renovated guest room when owner Adrian Leeds is there.
Pictures and more details available at https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/parlerparis/apartments/rentals/leeds.html
The best and easiest way to find an apartment in Paris…
So, you want to rent your own “pied-à-terre” for a week, a month or a year? It’s easy — there are thousands of apartments in Paris to call home, but it’s not so fast and easy to surf through all the thousands to fine the one perfect for you.
For just $39, we’ll do all the legwork and you’ll just move in and unpack. Let us do a customized search for you with our favorite short-term vacation rental agents!
To start your search, contact Yolanda Robins at [email protected]


The best and easiest way to find an apartment in Paris…

So, you want to rent your own “pied-à-terre” for a week, a month or a year? It’s easy — there are thousands of apartments in Paris to call home, but it’s not so fast and easy to surf through all the thousands to fine the one perfect for you.

For just $39, we’ll do all the legwork and you’ll just move in and unpack. Let us do a customized search for you with our favorite short-term vacation rental agents!

To start your search, contact Yolanda Robins at [email protected]


For all short term rental apartments in Paris, take a look at https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/parlerparis/apartments or https://adrianleeds.com/wp-content/uploads/newsletters/frenchproperty/insider/longterm.html for long term apartments.



1 square meter = 10.7639104 square feet

1 hectare = 2.4710538 acres

For more conversions, refer to: http://www.onlineconversion.com/



If you’re not a regular reader of the Parler Paris daily e-letter, and would like to be, simply enter your e-mail address here (it’s free!): http://www.adrianleeds.com/parlerparis


Copyright 2005, Adrian Leeds Group, LLC



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