Back in Paris and Beating the Clock

I landed in Paris on Monday morning and haven’t stopped to take a breath. Paris offers more to do than is possible in any given time period, so be prepared to either have a non-stop vacation or a non-stop Parisian life.

Here are just some of my Paris experiences from this past week…

APRES-MIDI WITH FRANCE 24

I had barely unpacked when we welcomed a full house to our monthly coffee gathering, Après-Midi, on Tuesday afternoon with International Affairs Commentator, Douglas Herbert, from France 24. Douglas was an amazing speaker and captivated the audience with his tales of “The Second Coming of Trump: Bracing for Impact.”

I’d been watching Douglas Herbert’s reporting on France 24 since its inception on December 6, 2006, and became a huge fan of his no-nonsense reporting and rational opinions on world news. As an American, he covers American news like an insider. I avidly watched his newscasts and reports, then had the lucky chance of meeting him and becoming friends through a mutual colleague. He has spoken at Après-Midi on several occasions and always wows the audience. This time was no different, speaking about the outcome of the recent U.S. presidential election and what that might mean to the U.S. We had a full house and a lot of questions—very enlightening viewpoint of a journalist who is ferreting out the truth!

But just because you weren’t able to attend, it doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy it! It’s all on our YouTube channel and the report and photos can all be found on our website.

CROSSING THE CULTURAL DIVIDE

Thursday evening (France time), I made a one-hour+ presentation on behalf of the Fédération des Alliances Françaises USA about “Crossing the Cultural Divide – the Toughest Part of Moving to France.” We had a record-breaking attendance as this could be every Francophile’s favorite subject.

Even so, most of the questions were unrelated to the topic, while the comments were very much on point. Everyone wants to know how to move to France! And I can’t blame them! Fortunately, there are lots of other videos on our own YouTube channel to answer their questions! (Visit our channel and subscribe!)

The presentation was designed to provide the very foundation of our differences, so that any newcomer to France can manage the cultural clash in their midst and deal with it effectively. The topics we focused were: The Difference in our Legal Systems, Honesty/System D/Living in the “Gray Area,” Capitalism vs Socialism, Let’s Talk About Money, The Bonjour Affect, Pyramid vs Star Organizational Charts, Safety, Asking the Right Question to Get the Right Answer, Smiling and Negativity, Class Level, Personal Space, Privacy and Speaking Loudly and Collision in the Workplace. We covered a lot, but it’s a topic that could go on and on and on!

To watch the webinar in its entirety, you can visit the AFUSA website. Or on our own YouTube channel.

CAILLEBOTTE PAINTING…MEN

In the early 1990s, at an exhibition at the Grand Palais, I purchased an umbrella with the motif of a Caillebotte painting, “Paris Street; Rainy Day.” Over the years, the umbrella was left, lost and even stolen. In each instance, I was able to recuperate it and still own it to this day. Obviously, it was treasured, but it also seemed to have a life of its own, not wanting to leave my side.

When the “Caillebotte Painting Men” exhibition opened at the Musée d’Orsay, (October 8th, 2024 to January 19th, 2025), it went onto the calendar not to miss. I heard from a friend who had attended that wrote to whet the appetite for the exhibition: “Him, gay? You think? They had some photos and paintings of him in his 20’s and 30’s, and I’m telling you he was gay. You know that my gay-o-meter is outstanding (yours not-so-much), and that man was gay, but a very, very talented gay. Wait until you see what he owned, now displayed on the 5th floor of the Orsay that he left to the state in his will. Over 70 pieces by famous Impressionists, Monet’s, Manet’s, Pissarro’s, etc.”

Saturday afforded the opportunity with a friend from the American Embassy in Paris to first have lunch in the restaurant on the 2nd floor that was once the heart of the Orsay train station, adorned with frescoes by Gabriel Ferrier and Benjamin Constant lining the ceilings. The chandeliers, painted ceilings, and gilded details of this room—designated as a historical monument—create an unforgettable setting for your special moments (but please look beyond the tasteless, colorful, acrylic contemporary chairs that seem completely out of character and misplaced!).

Drawing inspiration from the museum’s exhibitions, the chef delights in surprising diners with innovative culinary creations…as he did on Saturday with a creative and delicious “Salade d’artichaut, poire, mâche et sarrasin” (Artichoke, pear, lamb’s lettuce and buckwheat salad) and “Filet de bar cuit au four, potiron et champignons” (Baked sea bass fillet with pumpkin and mushrooms). In addition, the waiter was particularly delightful. It’s the perfect start to fully enjoy all the museum as to offer.

(Note: The restaurant opens at 11:45 a.m., so get there early to get a seat! It’s also open for Tea Time from 2:45 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.)

Yes, the Gustave Caillebotte exhibit is all it’s cracked up to be. One painting is more beautiful than the next. Our choice of Saturday meant a packed house, but “c’est la vie,” that’s how it goes for us working stiffs. Choose a less popular day/time if you want to get upfront and up close without someone breathing down your neck.

He was clearly not interested in painting women—a few are represented, but some artists can’t seem to get enough of a woman’s shapely form, however he was not interested. He never married, but he is believed to have been in a serious, long-term relationship with a woman named Charlotte Berthier. Eleven years his junior and reportedly from a lower-class background, Berthier was left a substantial annuity in Caillebotte’s will after his passing. Our guess? She was a convenient “concubine” (in the French sense of the word, a woman who lives with a man as his lover but is not his wife), who became a good “front” for his sexuality, while perhaps providing all the comforts of a “wife” without the romance.

Either way, don’t miss it. I fell in love with every one of his male friends, as he might have been!

ON THE BAYROU

When I first saw his name, I couldn’t help but think of my Louisiana heritage and “Jambalaya (On the Bayou),” a song written and recorded by Hank Williams that was first released in July 1952, just before I was born. That’s who has been appointed by French President Emmanuel Macron as the new prime minister of France—François Bayrou. Bayou…Bayrou…you can see why! He’s entrusting the seasoned centrist with the responsibility of steering the country through its second major political crisis in six months. Bayrou becomes the sixth prime minister under Macron’s presidency (!), following the fall of Michel Barnier and his government to a historic vote of no-confidence last week. C’est la vie en France!

THE NEW AMBASSADOR TO FRANCE

Everyone at the American Embassy in Paris is used to a changing of the guard every four years. This time, Charles Kushner has been appointed, the father of Donald Trump’s son-in-law, Jared Kushner. He’s the guy that was granted a presidential pardon by Trump in December 2020 during a wave of clemency orders that included several high-profile Trump allies, such as Paul Manafort and Roger Stone. Kushner’s pardon erased convictions from 2004, when he pleaded guilty to tax evasion, witness tampering, and lying to the Federal Election Commission. The case became infamous for its salacious details, including Kushner’s admission that he hired a prostitute to entrap his brother-in-law, a cooperating witness in a federal investigation, and sent the resulting videotape to his sister. Despite serving two years in prison, Kushner has since returned to prominence, leveraging his wealth and connections to become a significant donor to Trump’s 2024 presidential campaign.

The ambassadorship to France is widely regarded as one of the most prestigious diplomatic posts, traditionally filled by individuals with extensive political or cultural experience. Kushner’s lack of a diplomatic background, coupled with his controversial past, is expected to raise questions about his qualifications. Kushner’s appointment could symbolize Trump’s continued reliance on loyalists and family connections to fill key roles. While his business acumen and personal ties to Trump may help him navigate the ambassadorship, his criminal record and divisive reputation could prove to be obstacles in building relationships with French officials. Furthermore, Trump’s history of policy disputes with Macron and his unpredictable approach to international diplomacy may add another layer of complexity to Kushner’s ability to succeed in the role.

The Hôtel de Pontalba is an “hôtel particulier” at 41 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in the 8th arrondissement that has been the official residence of the United States Ambassador to France since 1971. An embassy diplomat friend told me that the last time a Republican-appointed ambassador inhabited the residence, they declared it as a private home and wouldn’t allow the usual congenial events that take place there during the year. Hope this isn’t the case this time around…as it’s really owned by the people and should be open for all to enjoy on special occasions!

Take a virtual tour on this website.

NICE WILL BE NICE

As you read this, I’ll be headed to Nice for a week in the sun (it’s about 10 degrees warmer than Paris and a whole lot sunnier!) with just as much to get done before the holidays as in Paris. Stay tuned for an adventure at a homeowner association meeting (always both torturous and amusing) among other things!

A la prochaine…