Holiday Life on the Riviera and Beyond

NORTH AMERICAN EXPATS IN FRANCE QUARTERLY FINANCIAL FORUM 4TH QUARTER 2025

Wednesday evening our “North American Expats in France Quarterly Financial Forum 4th Quarter 2025″(sorry for the long title!) brought together seasoned professionals to tackle one of the most uncomfortable—and most important—topics facing North American expats in France: inheritance and estate planning across borders. Hosted by Dunhill Financial in partnership with the Adrian Leeds Group, featuring tax advisor, Jonathan Hadida, the discussion cut through fear and confusion with practical, no-nonsense guidance…while being fun and funny, thanks to their good humor and light-hearted view of the topic!

Rather than focusing on theory, the speakers addressed real-life scenarios: assets held in multiple countries, differing inheritance rules, and the costly consequences of waiting too long to plan. The message was clear—thinking ahead is an act of generosity, not pessimism. Participants left with a better understanding of how French and U.S. systems intersect, what mistakes to avoid, and why proactive planning can protect both family and legacy.

We had limited time for questions, but we hope to address those we couldn’t answer in an upcoming Nouvellettre®. Meanwhile, you can watch the webinar any time and on your own by visiting Dunhill Financial and our YouTube channel.

FROM PARIS TO THE MARIGNY: A MEMOIR

I met Ray Ruiz at the very first Après-Midi in Paris in 2003. He was already a fan of our Nouvellettres®, a native New Orleanian of French descent and a world traveler. Looking back, I think Ray had a big influence on the continuation of the coffee gathering thanks to his good humor and strong support. We became friends.

At one point, Ray owned an apartment on rue Bonaparte in Nice. I stayed there for a few days and as a result, fell in love with the city. It was at that time when Place Garabaldi was completely renovated (2007–2008), transforming it into a more pedestrian-friendly space and updating its layout and traffic circulation. I ventured through the construction to enter Vieux Nice daily as well as exploring the Old Port area just steps away. Ray has an eye for good property as rue Bonaparte later became pedestrian and the hippest spot on that side of town.

Ray and his husband, Kim, run a B&B in the Marigny area of New Orleans. Over the years, we’ve tried to connect whenever I’m in town. Meanwhile, he relentlessly sends me photos of New Orleans cuisine specialties from restaurants I love—just to torture me as he knows how much I miss New Orleans cooking!

Now that Ray has turned 80 years old, he’s taken a look back over his very fascinating and eclectic life and decided to pen a memoir, reflecting on how he values “experiences over possessions, people over profit, and culture over consumption”: From Paris to the Marigny: A Memoir.

“That perspective followed me everywhere—from Paris to San Francisco, where I built a career but never let it consume me, and back to New Orleans, where my husband and I now run a bed and breakfast in the Marigny. For me, happiness has always been found in travel, in creativity, in friendships, and in love—in choosing life’s fullness over life’s busyness.” His memoir tells that story: the journey of an American who caught the wind of Europe’s way of life and carried it across oceans and decades.

I read it on the plane returning from Los Angeles. It doesn’t take long, but it’s inspiring. I told Ray that it was just a tease. I wanted to learn more. And he wrote with a bit of sarcasm (or so I imagine), “My memoir is done. That’s it. Take it or leave it.”

Here’s how you take it.

Note about the Marigny: Where Bohemia Meets Old-World Charm

Just beyond the French Quarter, the Faubourg Marigny unfurls like one of New Orleans’ best-kept secrets—a neighborhood where time loosens its grip and the city’s creative soul comes out to play. Rows of brightly painted Creole cottages, each with its own personality, and leafy streets are where musicians, artists, and long-time locals mingle as naturally as the Mississippi’s bend.

This is the home of Frenchmen Street, where live music pours out of every doorway and the night feels endlessly young. Jazz, blues, brass—it’s all right there on the sidewalks, effortless and alive. By day, the Marigny hums with easygoing cafés, quirky boutiques, and that unmistakable New Orleans warmth that makes even visitors feel like they belong.

The Marigny is bohemian but grounded, historic yet delightfully unpolished—a neighborhood with soul. It’s one of those rare places where you can feel the city breathing around you, inviting you in. As I said earlier, Ray knows good property.

THIS WAY OUT!

Dave Wollert is one of our clients living in Nice. He’s a quietly accomplished creative professional whose work has been woven into American popular culture without ever demanding the spotlight. A screenwriter and producer by trade, Dave built a solid career in television during an era when network shows reached tens of millions of viewers each week. He is perhaps best known for his work on iconic series such as “Knight Rider,” a show that captured the imagination of a generation with its blend of technology, adventure, and optimism. His credits also include “They Came from Outer Space” and “Near Mrs.,” reflecting a versatility that spans action, comedy, and science-fiction storytelling.

You know it the minute you read his latest book, This Way Out!, because, as I wrote for the back of the book jacket, “Dave Wollert hits the nail on the head with his concise and hilariously funny how-to guide to moving abroad. You will learn a lot and laugh your tooshy off at Wollert’s down-to-earth and valuable advice that could make or break your success in making the leap across the cultural divide to France. His Niçois backdrop is part of what makes his experience so delightful, but don’t let that fool you into thinking that his counsel isn’t just as perfect for anywhere in France! Au contraire! Believe every word, regardless of where in France you land (although the Riviera town should be at the top of your list).”

The book is an 89-page paperback, so there’s no excuse for not reading it. Besides, you’ll thank me as you laugh your way through it while getting the real goods. You can order it on Amazon, but you can also come to Après-Midi on March 26th, 2026 in Nice to hear it from the horse’s mouth. Hope to see you there!

HOUSEHUNTERS FRANCE

Jonathan Weston came to me not long ago with his latest book project, Househunters France, for good reason…he knew I’d have some of the answers, although he’d done an incredible amount of research himself! He is one of those rare guides who makes the idea of buying property in France feel not only attainable, but genuinely enjoyable. And yes, that’s the truth!

An American writer, photographer, and longtime Francophile, he co-authored Househunters France: Because Buying in France Should Come With More Wine Than Regrets with Elena Weston, his wife—a refreshingly honest, practical roadmap for anyone contemplating a French home.

This is not glossy fantasy or armchair advice. Weston writes from lived experience, with a deep appreciation for French culture, architecture, and the rhythms of daily life. I heard all about it over lunch in Nice, while perusing through the book and admiring his photography—every photo in the book is his!

In the process, he demystifies the process, sidesteps the pitfalls, and gently steers readers toward choices that align with both lifestyle dreams and long-term reality. In short, his work does what good guidance should do: it replaces anxiety with clarity—preferably accompanied by a good glass of Bordeaux.

He wasn’t our client. But, that’s okay. And the book doesn’t replace what we do to find property and guide you through the process to avoid the pitfalls (and serious mistakes), but the more you know, the easier and more fun your journey will be discovering France, its cities, towns and villages, its architecture and ability to make you feel 100% at home.

As you read through it, you’ll note that we get mentioned quite a bit, so he certainly hasn’t ignored the value of professional help, while educating you from beginning to end.

Here’s where you will find it on Amazon!

BEST OF NICE JAZZ

Over the years, I’ve learned that the most valuable guides to life in France aren’t always the loudest voices—they’re the ones who live it every day. Allison Coe, founder of The Best of Nice Blog, is one of those voices. An American who has long called Nice home (more than 20 years), Allison writes from real experience, not theory or tourism fantasy. Her blog became a trusted reference for me and is for anyone looking to understand how Nice actually works—from neighborhoods and restaurants to markets and the rhythms of daily life. Clear-eyed, honest, and refreshingly unsponsored, her writing replaces guesswork with confidence. She doesn’t sell Nice—she explains it.

Meeting her was one of those pleasures that will stick with me for a long time. We had so much to talk about and share—and she shared with me one of her best kept secrets: jazz on Saturday nights at the Cave Romagnan (22 rue d’Angleterre, 06000 Nice).

She said, “Meet me there at 6 p.m. It fills up quickly, so if we don’t get there early, we may not get a seat.” And so I did. This was a Nice I didn’t know, even though I’ve lived here much of the year since 2012.

This is how the Nice locals do it: Make your way to La Cave Romagnan on a Saturday night, but don’t arrive later than 6:15 or you may be out of luck. Tucked away on rue d’Angleterre steps from the Gare Thiers de Nice Ville, this unassuming wine cellar transforms each week into one of the city’s most authentic jazz venues.

There’s no stage, no spectacle—just superb musicians, drinks, and an intimate crowd pressed close to the music, many of whom are regulars. An old friend just happened in not long after we took our seats. He’s one of the regulars, as is Allison. The jazz is lively, improvised, and joyfully unpredictable, creating the kind of atmosphere where conversation, rhythm, and community blend effortlessly.

The Cave is a throw back to another time. The owner is as old as the hills, perched behind the bar, doling out drinks as slow as molasses. The drinks are the cheapest in town. He doesn’t seem to care. He smokes at the bar and doesn’t care about that either, hence others come to smoke alongside him, but only at the bar. The lights are so bright they are blinding. A Coca-Cola refrigerator from another era sits in a corner behind the musicians…completely empty and taking up valuable space. Again, no one seems to care. They came for the jazz…and perhaps the feeling of another time. There is a wall of books and tchotchkes that could likely be a kind of lending library—but who knows? There were no snacks—we bought the last small plateful of olives and they weren’t edible. Others had brought their own peanuts and chips, fully prepared to stay for the evening.

The music starts at 7 and ends at 9. Normally there are three sets. We stayed for one and then headed out for dinner. This is Nice at its most genuine, soulful, and alive. Thanks to Allison for this very special find. Her blog is filled with such insider info you won’t want to miss.

BEST SUSHI IN NICE AT THE LOWEST PRICE

If you regularly read my Nouvellettres® then you know I love sushi and recently ate my way through Los Angeles (and Maui, too). After an hour of cool jazz, Allison and I ventured out to rue d’Angleterre to see where we might land with a cornucopia of restaurants in the immediate vicinity. Just steps away was Maison de Tevy, a sushi restaurant that had recently replaced a Cambodian restaurant with a 5-star rating on Google. So, we gave it a shot.

This is just as much of a “dive” in a way as La Cave de Romagnan so we didn’t have great expectations, but the entire meal of three rolls (cut into 8 pieces each), 12 pieces of mixed sashimi and edamame with green tea blew us away and happily over-filled our bellies for under 30€ each! It was certainly the best sushi I’ve had in Nice at the lowest price and now I can’t wait to go again! And guess what? You can always order it to go or be delivered, so now I know—no more Sushi Shop take-out for me!

NIÇOIS HOLIDAYS

Nice is particularly pretty during the holiday period. Place Masséna and the Promenade de Paillon is beautifully lit up at night. The days are sunny and can be warm enough to remove your coat and feel the sun on your skin. Naturally, it’s not as busy as during the Summer months, but it’s not at all void of life and activity.

See Nice at its slowest time of year to get a real sense of what it’s like to live here. I’m hooked.

A la prochaine…