Matisse Reinvented. Hugo Revealed. Paris at Its Best

A MATISSIEN LIFE

When in Paris, I try to take advantage of the art exhibitions as much as possible. It’s one reason I fell in love with the city and why it continues to entertain. Matisse 1941-1954 exhibition at the Grand Palais (March 24-July 26, 2026) just opened and the crowds there are intense. (Don’t go on a Saturday afternoon like we did. Getting anywhere near the works is a challenge. One must employ Mardi Gras “worming” to get up close and up front.)

It’s worth the inching through the crowds to see this massive collection of over 300 works from the final 13 years of Henri Matisse’s life. Matisse reinvented himself at the age of 80, after major surgery in 1941 when he was left physically diminished and often confined to bed or a wheelchair. Instead of slowing down, he completely reinvented art…his art…painting with scissors. This is the birth of the famous “gouaches découpées” (cut-outs) using simplified, almost childlike, but incredibly sophisticated forms. It’s not late work in decline. It’s late work in explosion.

My apartment in Nice is called “Le Matisse” because we chose fabrics for the drapes and decorative pillows resembling Matisse paintings of “Matissien” colors. On the walls are posters of his paintings, many of which were in the exhibition. One of my cacti is named “Henri.” The other is named “Henriette.” I wear Matissien earrings my daughter gave me. In other words, I love Matisse, so you can imagine my enthusiasm for this exhibition.

To be in the spirit, I wore Matissien colors. One woman stopped to ask if she could take my photo in front of one of the paintings. That’s the way to “blend” in. Don’t miss this exhibition. Go late Friday night (nocturne, open Fridays until 10 p.m.) when it’s calmer. Don’t rush—this one rewards slow viewing

You walk in thinking: “I know Matisse.” You walk out realizing: “I had no idea.”

This is not about Impressionism, Fauvism, or art history labels. It’s about a man near the end of his life who says: Let me simplify everything—and make it more powerful than ever. I hope to take his advice.

YOU GO FOR HUGO

This is the moment to visit the Place des Vosges, when the elegant rows of Linden trees (Tilleuls in French, botanically, Tilia), have just popped out their bright green leaves. In another day or two, they will be in full bloom and perfect for strolling and sitting under, taking in their soft fragrance. As fittingly French, the trees are planted in a symmetrical grid, reinforcing the square’s perfectly balanced design dating back to the early 17th-century under Henry IV of France.

Tucked under the elegant arcades in the southeast corner, the Maison de Victor Hugo offers something far more intimate than a traditional museum—it’s a walk through the life, mind, and imagination of one of France’s greatest literary figures, Victor Hugo. It’s easy to imagine him walking beneath the shade of the trees, wandering under the arcade, drawing inspiration from the symmetry, the light, and the quiet rhythm of the square. In many ways, the setting is as much a part of the story as the house itself.

“Hugo the Decorator” an exhibition on until April 26th, sheds light on an unusual aspect of Hugo’s creativity: interior design. It is the least known aspect of his work (I never dreamed!), yet this exhibition, spread across the museum’s two floors, seeks to bring to life and document the method and spirit of Victor Hugo—not novelist, poet, playwright, political figure, or one of the most influential social voices of 19th-century France—but the decorator.

Rather than presenting his work in a purely academic way, the exhibition unfolds as a chronological journey through his life, beginning with his early years and rising fame in Paris, moving through his long political exile, and culminating in his triumphant return as a national icon. What makes the experience so compelling is that it’s not just about Hugo the writer—it’s about Hugo the man. You see his personal furnishings and richly decorated rooms (many recreated from his own designs), manuscripts, drawings, and portraits that reveal his creative process and the influence of his years in exile on the island of Guernsey, where he wrote some of his most important works, including “Les Misérables.”

Get there quickly before the exhibition closes. And take advantage of the café-restaurant tucked away on one side of the Maison de Victor Hugo garden. Enjoy the beautiful garden this time of year or take a sweet table inside and look out. It’s a secret haven of tranquillity: the garden, its fountain, the architecture, works by artist duo Lamarche-Ovize relating to Victor Hugo, and Non Sans Raison tableware. Like a trip to Guernsey, it’s now part of the world of Victor Hugo. I am sure he would have been pleased.

THE WEEK AHEAD…

HOUSTONIAN AGENTS GET A CRASH COURSE

A big week is ahead of us. Later today I’m meeting with a group of real estate agents from Houston, Texas who are here to learn how to advise their international clients…while having a lot of fun in the City of Light. I’m planning on giving them an overview of “Property in France 101” and a tour of a property under renovation—namely my daughter’s new apartment, which is more in a state of demolition than renovation…at the moment.

Stay tuned for Wednesday’s Nouvellettre® when we report on the event.

CARA BLACK IS BACK.

Tuesday is our monthly Après-Midi with author, Cara Black.  She’s a regular guest speaker who is always a treat tohear and is the New York Times and USA Today bestselling author of 21 books in the Aimée Leduc series, as well as the WWII thrillers THREE HOURS IN PARIS and NIGHT FLIGHT TO PARIS. Her current book HUGUETTE, is set after Libération in Paris and explores a young woman’s journey through post war France.

Don’t miss the event. Come about 15 minutes ahead to get a good seat as I’m sure it will be SRO.

SIGNING THE DEED ON OUR BIJOU

Wednesday we’re doing the “walk-through” in advance of signing the deed of our newest Fractional Property—Le Bijou de l’Hôtel de Ville—which takes place on Thursday. There are only three shares available for purchase, so don’t hesitate to contact us to learn more about getting your share of this soon-to-be perfect pied-à-terre in Le Marais just steps from the Hôtel de Ville, La Seine and Nôtre Dame.

A CLASSIC IN THE 2ND FOR SALE

Friday I’m visiting another property we have for sale: a classic two-bedroom apartment in the heart of Paris (2nd arrondissement) with all the classic features: parquet (herringbone), molding, balcony, etc.—that deserves to have a new and happy owner.

APARTMENT HUNTING

Over the weekend, I’ll be packing to leave the following week for Maui. This is not for “vacation.” I’ll be helping my daughter pack for her big move back to France with her young son, 1.5 years old. Her new apartment under renovation by Martine di Mattéo won’t be ready for occupancy until the end of July, so we had to find short-term accommodations for them—79 days to be exact.

That project turned out to be one of the most difficult we’ve ever encountered. I joked (seriously) that not only did I learn first-hand what our clients go through, but I became one of our worst clients to deal with, too, as I solicited the help of our staff!

We submitted requests to six different properties, with three different agencies. We booked two of them and were rejected by the owners of the other four. Money was flying around like crazy, because before the landlord gives the final OK, their palms must be greased with the deposit—fully refundable with a cancellation 30 days in advance. We had to create a spreadsheet to keep track of it all. And in the end, we found a great apartment, owned by friends, not too far away, available in which to stay…as their guests. All the others got cancelled and reimbursed.

Lucky us!

The costs of the rent we discovered were between 2,100€ a month to 4,100€ a month for one and two-bedroom apartments in Le Marais. Airbnbs were some of the most expensive, but VRBO rents were unaffordable. Paris Attitude, the agency I rented from when my own apartment was under renovation, turned out to be the most difficult with which to deal and the least accommodating. Their landlords refused us on just about every property we inquired about. Why I don’t know. Lodgis made a big effort to help us, but they asked for way too much financial info for an apartment we were willing to pay for in advance.

The whole process became a very interesting learning experience and yes, now I know first hand what our clients go through.

TOULOUSE…LA TREK

In June, I’m taking a long weekend to explore the southwest French city of Toulouse. This is part of my mission to get to know France well so as to advise our clients properly. On Sunday the 14th, I hope to meet up with you readers to learn all about why you love living in Toulouse…or not. Mark the date on the calendar and if you have suggestions on where there is a good centrally-located café for the meet-up, I’d be delighted to hear your ideas. Please email me.

A la prochaine…