Paris’ Best Ringside Seats
I had been stood up, but I didn’t care. I had a ringside seat, a red sweet Kir and a sexy dress. My “no-shows” were missing the “real show.”
Granted, the people-watching in Paris is as interesting as the “quartier” you’re in. This particular evening, I was on rue de Buci in the 6th arrondissement. A live band had formed down the block performing drum-trumpet street jazz with pizzazz. So, not only was there a spectacle of passers-by and fellow drinkers-diners, but an audio accompaniment to round out the ambiance.
At first I was put-off by the rude behavior of the party who didn’t bother to call or leave a message, but quickly took in the glorious scene as the Kir disappeared from the glass. I wrote notes on a scrap of paper and reflected on American writers of the past who spent their days in the cafés writing on napkins and drowning their thoughts in Pastis.
People watching in the 6th is a different experience from the spectator sport it is in the Marais. The districts attract a different audience. My first thought was that the strollers in the 6th looked way too “normal!” Every now and then, a gorgeous French woman in high heels and long shapely legs looking very French would glide past with complete confidence that everyone was turning their heads. We were.
In the Marais, we see many more beautiful men…but they aren’t usually looking at women. The denizens and tourists of this historic district take more risk in expressing themselves and the eclecticism is much more pronounced.
Still, there is nothing quite like café life. Paris is the master of it all. I dare you to find another city that offers life on the streets with such finesse and elegance. The summer is particularly seductive, when the tables and chairs spill on to the sidewalks and beyond the café’s own borders. These are the tiny spots on the planet that offer theater for the price of a drink — places to see and be seen, reflect on life’s wonders, seduce a lover, make a deal, write a novel.
The cafés charge more or less depending on the price of real estate — that’s what you’re buying, when you order up your espresso or “pression” — renting your seat for as long as you like for the cost of a coffee. You will likely be paying the price for the café on the sunny side of the street…or the one with the finest view…or just for the name that conjures up centuries of tall tales.
The cafés you sit in speak volumes about who you are. Like dressing well and showing off your riches, or dressing down with indifference. Where you choose to warm the seat plays a role in who you see yourself to be and how you want others to perceive you.
Sit at Les Deux Magots and we know you’re a tourist not in the know. Move one door down to Café de Flore, and suddenly you’re the cream of the Paris crop. Walk around the corner to Café de la Marie facing Eglise Saint Sulpice, and you’ve transcended both of them — for the chic residents of the 6th who DON’T want to be seen.
Cross the river to the Marais and decide which of the three along rue Vieille du Temple fit your personality…big and bustling Les Philosophes?…tiny intimate Au Petit Fer à Cheval?…or totally hetero L’Etoile Manquante? More the type for Café de la Paix with a view of the Opera? (Could this be Paris’ most expensive?) Or Fouquet’s on the Champs-Elysées?
My personal favorites? Well…that changes with the moods and seasons, and of course, with the neighborhood. I have an arm’s length of both funny and romantic memories from Le Café Français at place de la Bastille, and a stack of contracts signed at L’Etoile Manquante. Celebrity spotting at Café de Flore is always fun (don’t you know I swooned when I heard the voice of Jeremy Irons sitting next to me?), especially upstairs where the tourists don’t go. Café Buci gets my business for a tall “crème” before Parler Parlor on Saturday mornings and La Flore en L’Isle at Pont Saint-Louis is sublime on warm summer nights when musicians pla
y on the bridge.
So, stood up and feeling blue? Find a café and wash the blues away.
A la prochaine…
Editor, Parler Paris
Email [email protected]
P.S. Yesterday marked the last “Après Midi” for the summer — read all about our adventures at /parlerparis/apresmidi.html and then make note we’re back September 13th for another fun get-together.
P.P.S. Don’t miss the festivities tonight and tomorrow — scroll down for all you need to know about the Bals des Pompiers and the Bastille Day celebration — you can bet we’ll be there and telling our tales later this week.
P.P.P.S. Subscribe today to the Parismarais.com in time for the July 15th issue!…The Art of Living Guide to Le Marais: http://www.parismarais.com/parismarais-newsletter.htm
* The Smallest Apartment in Paris
By Adrian Leeds
FPI readers and property search clients Judy and Steve Glickman live in the smallest house in Santa Clara County. It measures 514 square feet, or 47.75 square meters — a well-proportioned two-room (one bedroom) apartment in Paris! And that’s exactly what they are hoping to find here in the City of Light. (Scroll down to read about their tiny abode in Los Gatos.)…French Property Insider Subscribers Read On…
FRENCH PROPERTY INSIDER — GET ONE MONTH FREE!
Only until July 31, 2005!
Learn how to buy property in France. French Property Insider is an e-mail newsletter from the editors of Parler Paris. If you’d like to learn about the insights, recommendations, and discoveries about buying and investing in real estate in Paris and France that French Property Insider readers get every week, now’s a special opportunity.
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Get one additional month FREE at no extra cost! That’s 13 full months, 4 extra issues, still at the current price of $47.50. That’s still less than $1 per issue for the most up-to-the-minute news, insights and discoveries on real estate purchase and investing in Paris and France, plus legal information, tax tips and more.
Hurry — this is a limited time offer, only until July 31, 2005.
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* There is no reason you can’t own a “pied-à-terre” in Paris you can call your own.
Learn the best ways to watch your money and real estate investment grow before your very eyes…all while gazing at the world’s most famous monument over a frothy café crème.
Invest in France Seminar
August 10, 2005
* Perfect or maintain your fluency in French with Champs-Elysées monthly audio magazine, packed with interesting news and features on French life and culture. If you’re looking for rapid improvement, try the new audio study package, Champs-Elysées Plus, containing a range of listening and written exercises to help you with comprehension, vocabulary building, and improving your accent. http://web.champs-elysees.com/parler6
* Practice your French or English in a fun and friendly environment with interesting people from all over the world at! Parler Parlor is open all summer long! http://www.parlerparlor.com
Wednesday, July 13, 2005
We gladly run announcements for non-profit organizations. If you wish your community announcement to appear, please provide the text in ENGLISH just as you’d like it to appear and send it to Lynda Sydney: [email protected]
Thank you, Adrian
Strictly Entertainment: Comedy, Plays, Movies, Dance
TWO, a British Comedy by Jim Cartwright (of Rise and fall of Little Voice fame) is playing in English on Tuesdays at 9 p.m. at Theatre Darius Milhaud. Starring two Anglo-Irish actors, Kim-Michelle Broderick (Sex on a Stick) and Paul Barrett.
Theatre Darius Milhaud
80, allée Darius Milhaud
Métro: Porte de Pantin
Art and Culture
Jules Verne, Stories of the Sea
Until August 31
Exhibition focusing on the writer fascination with the sea.
Musée de la Marine
ANN FAGAN’S BOOKS
If you want to get hold of a copy of “Challenging US Human Rights Violations Since 9/11” for your summer reading, you don’t have to wait till September.
Books are available from:
Julie or Jane [email protected] or phone 01.42.04.35.83
Please note Dems Abroad France’s new email address:
Paris Jazz Festival
June 4 to July 24, 2005
Musique Côté Jardins
Parc Floral de Paris
Free concerts starting at 1:30 p.m.
Entry into Parc Floral de Paris: 4 euros, Tarif réduit 2 euros
RER Vincennes, Mtro: Chateau de Vincennes
Festival Musique en l’Ile
June 28 to September 17
Classical concerts with the Moscow Sirine Choir, the Vocal Group “Oxford Voices,” the Paris Gregorian Choir and more.
Eglises Saint-Louis-en-Ile (4th Arrondissement), Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th Arrondissement) and others.
For more information
The Pacific Lutheran University
under the direction of
Works sung by the choir:
Dahl, Nance Newberry; Sharpe
The American Church
Métro Pont Alma, Invalides
Friday, July 22, 2005 at 10:30 p.m.
The Pacific Lutheran University
under the direction of
Works sung by the choir:
Dahl, Nance Newberry
Sunday, July 24, 2005 at 4:00 p.m.
Bonnes Soirées and Great Gatherings
BALS DES POMPIERS
Wednesday, July 13
9:00 p.m. till 4:00 a.m.
Forty stations (13 in Paris) open their doors to the public with music, drink and snacks. Band stands and beer stands will be ready for the an all-night fest, either one or both nights of July 13th and 14th.
For more information visit http://www.pompiersparis.fr/
For the list of balls, visit
Thursday, July 14
Celebrate the French National Holiday!
Military Parade begins 11:00 a.m at the Arc de Triomphe led by the President, marching to Place de la Concorde, complete with jets in formation overhead.
Join the crowds gathered at the Champ de Mars for the spectacular fireworks over the Eiffel Tower, beginning at sundown.
Plus, most local bars and clubs will be hosting their own celebrations. Wherever you are in Paris, there will be lots of dancing, parties, and champagne!
Begins July 21 to August 20
Daily 7 a.m. to midnight
The banks of the Seine are turned into an urban beach bash! Sand, deck chairs, palm trees, sports and lots of entertainment.
This year the plage has a Brazilian theme, with concerts, samba lessons, beach soccer, children’s workshops and more.
PARLER PARIS APRES-MIDI /parlerparis/apresmidi.html
Next Meeting: September 13th, 2005 and Every Second Tuesday of the Month 3:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.
This is your opportunity to meet every month, often with local professionals who can answer your Working and Living in France questions. You are invited to come for drinks and share your questions and comments about what it takes to create a life here, own property and enjoy what France has to offer. It is also an opportunity to network with other Parler Paris readers.
Upstairs at La Pierre du Marais 96, rue des Archives at the corner of rue de Bretagne 75003 Paris
Métro Lines 9, 3 et 11, stations Temple, République or Arts et Métiers
PARIS NETWORKING COCKTAIL
MAKE CONTACTS FOR BUSINESS, CAREER OPPORTUNITIES, SELF-DEVELOPMENT. Bring lots of business cards to exchange with others.
Guest speaker every Wednesday at 6:30 p.m.
Interested in being a guest speaker? Contact Patricia
PARTICIPATION: 15 Euros
BUFFET. GOOD WINE. FUN CANAPES. AFTER THE TALK, PASTA OF THE DAY FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO STAY.
For more information contact Patricia
PARIS SOIREES DINNER
NEW TIME! Happy Hour is at 6:30 p.m.
HAPPY HOUR. DINNER. PRESENTATION. DISCUSSION.
WE’VE GOT AIR-CONDITIONING!
Sunday, July 17 at 6:30 p.m.
INTUITIVE MESSAGES FROM ABOVE: An Interactive Evening With Renowned Psychic Shala Kilmer Mimi. Readings For Participants As Time Permits.
Shala Kilmer is a psychic and medium who lives in Michigan. Her phone and in-person readings specialize in Empowerment Coaching, Channeling angels and Ascended Masters, Past Life Regressions, and Soul Mates. Shala teaches people to use their own psychic abilities through a variety of classes including Psychic Development, Past Life Regression, Trance Induction (Channeling), and Getting to Know Your Guides. Shala has written a book on Intuition in the Workplace, for which she will be seeking a publisher.
Shala’s interest in psychic resources started when she went to a Spiritualist church attempting to contact her recently deceased father through a medium there. She went on to take various psychic development classes through the church and started working professionally in 1986.
Plus, Blues With Vocalist And Musician JuJu Childs.
Special Independence Day Dinner Fare!
At Patricia’s apartment on the Ile St. Louis. Ask Patricia for exact address and door code.
PARTICIPATION: 20 Euros
GREAT FOOD! International Cuisine. This week featuring French, American and Canadian Independence Day fare.
CONFIRMED RESERVATIONS ARE NECESSARY.
Thanks for reserving via return email! If you don’t receive an email confirmation by Sunday, please call Patricia. To reserve on Sundays, please call.
Patricia’s Tel: 01.43.26.12.88
Patricia is proud to have a 21st Century Parisian Salon. Our mission is to simply enlarge your circle of acquaintances in a safe and stimulating atmosphere while promoting Cultural Achievement, The New Age and Paris Personalities. And we have fun! We are THE gathering place for the International Community of Paris. Enjoy! Discuss! Meet new and interesting people.
27 Years of Dinner Chez Jim Haynes
Jim’s atelier becomes a salon every Sunday night where about 70 people from all over the world meet, dine, drink and enjoy themselves. Telephone on Saturday or Sunday for your invitation, directions and the door code.
Jim Haynes Atelier
A2 83, rue de la Tombe Issoire
Dancing on Quai Saint-Bernard
On Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sundays evenings, until August 31, 2005, weather permitting (or at least if it’s not raining) rendezvous on the quai Saint-Bernard.
The Parisians bring along a stereo and their best CDs and let themselves go to the sounds of tango, salsa or rock’n’roll.
Come and join in!
Quai Saint-Bernard 75005 PARIS
Métro: Gare d’Austerlitz
RER C: Gare d’Austerlitz
Access for persons with limited mobility
Have your portrait painted by American Portrait Artist, Kathy Burke For samples of her great work, visit /parlerparis/art/index.html
Schuyler Event Services
Providing experienced planning and management services for events, corporate meetings, and conferences and seminars internationally. Owned and managed by Schuyler Hoffman, SES successfully creates, plans and manages a variety of events for clients throughout the United States, Canada and Europe.
Schuyler Editorial Services
Owned and managed by Schuyler Hoffman, SES is the outgrowth of several years working as a writer and editor and provides a variety of editorial and writing services for international companies and individuals. An innate sense of style and grammar coupled with education and experience give Schuyler a particular affinity for producing first class documents. His sensitivity to every writer’s voice make him a first choice editor for novice and experienced writers alike.
WORDS THAT SELL! English Language Copywriter
Freelance copywriter with more than ten years of strategic marketing and advertising experience will write your brochures, sales letters, direct mail packages, web sites, newsletters and more. I will work with you to truly understand your products/services and the needs of your customers, to produce targeted communications that get results. Clients include advertising agencies, corporations and small businesses, and I am working with Adrian Leeds of Parler Paris and French Property Insider. Competitive rates. Contact Lynda at [email protected]
ENGLISH LANGUAGE LESSONS WITH A QUALIFIED INSTRUCTOR.
Tell your French friends!
Business English, conversation,writing,TOEFL/TOIC prep. All levels. Lessons designed to meet student’s needs. Instructor has a Masters degree in Teaching English to Speakers of Other Language (TESOL),and 10 + years of teaching experience. Contact Nancy Szczepanski at 06.32.20.47.10 or [email protected]
Learning la Langue Française
Parler Parlor French-English Conversation Group http://www.parlerparlor.com
OPEN ALL SUMMER LONG
Parlor Times —
3 Times A Week In Two Locations
Berlitz Opera – Tuesdays 6:30 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. 38 Avenue de l’Opéra 2nd arrondissement, Paris Opéra, RER A Auber
At Eurocentres – Wednesdays 2:30 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and Saturdays 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. 13 passage Dauphine (entrance at 30 rue Dauphine, between rue Dauphine and rue Mazarine), 6th arrondissement
Métro: Odéon, Saint-Michel
For Our Bay Area Friends
The Bay Area Francophile List is a weekly calendar of cultural events of interest to Francophones and Francophiles of the Bay Area, offering
information on cinema, art, theater, music, conversation groups, classes, etc. and servicing the entire San Francisco Bay Area.
The JULY Bay Area Francophile List has been posted at
Bastille Day events are highlighted in red.
There will be no additional updates to the list during the month of July. Publication will resume in August.
What’s On in the City
Année du Brésil en France
From March to December
Music, Dance, Exhibitions, Film, Literature…
8th Edition of Festival Soirs d’Été
June 21 to July 14, 2005
Paris Summer Sales!
Starts Friday, June 24 through July 23
For a complete listing of sale dates throughout France visit:
Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes
July 9 to August 13
A stroll through the illuminated gardens to meet key historical figures of Versailles. Firework display.
Parc du Château de Versailles
July 11 to 17
Parc de la Villette (19th Arrondissement)
Concerts, dancing, fashion, etc. all celebrating Brazil.
Paris Quartier d’Eté
July 14 to August 15
Dance, music, theatre, circus and film in parks and gardens, squares and streets and museums of the city. Some events are free.
Cinema en Plein Air 2005
July 19 to August 27
Parc la Villette
Le Raid Dingue de Paris
July 22-23 July
6th, 18th, 13th Arrondissements
Pedestrian walks and treasure hunts
Finish of the Tour de France 2005
Avenue des Champs-Elysées
Final leg: Corbeil-Essonnes / Paris Champs-Elysées (160 km)
Festival Cinéma au Clair de Lune
August 3 to 21
Another chance to see cinema masterpieces past and present having Paris as subject or backdrop. Outdoors.