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A Different Part Of Paris


May 14, 2002


About once a month, always on a Sunday, I take a long and
fast-paced "stroll" with a close friend with whom this has
become a delightful habit. Each promenade takes us in a
different direction, to a different part of Paris we haven’t
seen before.

Our most recent jaunt first took us in the direction of the 10th
arrondissement, an area of Paris seen by tourists "en route" to
the Gare du Nord or the Gare de l’Est, which are both situated
only a few streets apart, right in the heart of it. These
stations harbor the trains that head north and east: the
"Eurostar" to London, the "Talys" to Amsterdam and the "TGV"
(Train de Grande Vitesse) to Strasbourg.

From Place de la République, where most of the important
political activity takes place (Jacques Chirac gave his
acceptance speech here last week), we angled over to the quays
of the Canal St. Martin. The trees are leafy now, bright green
but not brilliant, lining the romantic waterway where boats and
barges still travel up and down, the locks still let the waters
in and out, and the life along the edge still seems carefree and

The 1938 French film, "Hôtel du Nord," was shot at the real
"Hôtel du Nord" on the east side of the canal, now a restaurant
and cabaret with weekly comedy shows
( Last August, the
film was shown outdoors at a nearby park on a giant inflatable
screen while we lounged on the grass of the lawn, the real hotel
and the canal as a backdrop. Quelle bonne idée!

Balancing along the edge of the canal and turning right into the
neighborhoods of the 10th, we came upon a contemporary apartment
complex surrounding a park/playground/sports fields accessible
only by pedestrian walkways. It is a Paris even few Parisians
see and we felt transmigrated as if to another planet. It’s
amazing to me that Paris never ceases to expose a new and
different part of its "persona" no matter how long I live here.

Our final destination took us into the 19th, into the
crescent-shaped Parc des Buttes Chaumont, one of the highest
peaks in Paris, where a man-made grotto, waterfall and
suspension bridge overlook a tranquil lake, on 25 hectares of
rolling green hills and woods with a large variety of trees and
shrubs. We circled the entire park and crossed on the interior

Two and one half hours, and at least 4 kilometers later, we
ordered up a "chocolat chaud" and a "café crème" at a corner
brasserie overlooking the statuesque brick city hall of the 19th
before trekking back down the hills and home.

Another typical day in the life of a "Parisienne"…

A la prochaine fois …


P.S. Thanks to all of you who write–we read every letter, even
if we don’t get a chance to answer you promptly! If you wish to
write, please be sure NOT TO HIT THE REPLY BUTTON–but instead,
click here to reach me directly:
mailto:[email protected]

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Parler Paris /parlerparis/
Written and Edited by Adrian Leeds

Published by International Living
mailto:[email protected]

Issue Number 38, May 14, 2002

In this issue:

*** How the Experts Shop the Flea Markets Paris
*** From the Inside–Property in Paris
*** Living it Up in Paris and Provence
*** Letting You in On a Secret
*** Last Chance to Write it Off
*** Savage Love and Tongues
*** Writers: Try Reading 90,000 Books in Paris

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Get out your list of art and antiques to purchase…and get
ready for four jam-packed days of flea-marketing in Paris!
Choose from two possible dates for you and an intimate group to
join professional guides to Paris’ most important flea and
antique markets–June 20 – 23 and July 4 – 7, 2002.

Led by experts in art, furniture and objects from the 19th and
20th centuries, you will be taken to the best and most reputable
dealers and assisted in discovering, negotiating and shipping
what you purchase. You’ll be enlightened by speakers, wined,
dined and cocktailed all throughout the four days.

This will truly be an experience you’ll never forget, as you’re
likely to return with important and valuable souvenirs from the

For more detailed information about the schedule, and to book
one of the few places on the FOUR-DAY FLEA MARKET TOUR, contact
Lauren Be

nder, at Paris à La Carte by clicking on this email:
mailto:[email protected]?subject=parlerparisfleamarkettour

For assistance with hotels, air travel and other travel
reservations, contact Barbara Perriello, Agora Travel in Delray
Beach, Florida at 1-800-926-6575 or 1-561-243-6276, email:
mailto:[email protected]?subject=parlerparisfleamarke


If you were paying attention, you may have noticed that
something new came into your in box from us this past
Thursday…a second weekly edition of Parler Paris: the Paris
Property Insider.

Because of the overwhelming response from you about property in
Paris . . . and France, you’ll now be able to read more on
purchasing, renting, and living in Paris.

If you’re not interested in the Thursday edition, just hit the
delete button. We’ll understand. Otherwise, enjoy what we have
to say, as we will be bringing you lots of good information that
you won’t be able to find elsewhere.

By the way, it’s not possible to receive just one
edition–they’re both Parler Paris, so if you unsubscribe from
one, you’ll unsubscribe from both.

To see the latest issue, you can now read it online at

The editor, Schuyler Hoffman, will be open to your suggestions
and letters. Write him at
mailto:[email protected]

* * * * * ADVERTISEMENT * * * * *

Would you like a FREE CRUISE along the golden sands of the Chang
Jiang River…a FREE EXPEDITION exploring the ancient palaces of
Kathmandu…or a FREE TREK through primitive jungles on an
Amazon safari?

If you ever dreamed about the romantic life of a travel writer,
here’s a very unusual opportunity to actually live it!

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Have you ever thought about living in Paris or Provence? Or
owning your own home here that you can enjoy at your leisure and
then rent the rest of the year?

June 16th, join us here in Paris for a tour of the city and it’s
desirable "arrondissements" then meet with real estate
professionals and experts in their fields who will enlighten you
on visa, tax, insurance and property issues before going off
into the city to see apartments and properties for yourself.

Then travel by train on the 18th of June from Paris to beautiful
Aix-en-Provence for three wonderful days where you will be
escorted to discover Provençal cottages and homes and quaint
villages, again with agents and property experts who can give
you insider information on the real estate market in Provence.

It’s not over, yet–as a bus will take you through the Luberon
before landing in Avignon, where we will visit the hilltop
villages you’ve heard so much about–Gordes, Roussillon,
Bonnieux, Lourmarin. Take a tour of Mont St. Victoire that
Cézanne immortalized on canvas and shop the market in St. Remy
en Provence for linens, olive oil, cheeses, fragrances and
baskets. Wonder at the history of Les Baux. Speak with agents
and visit properties in these ancient villages and nestled among
the fields of lavender and sunflowers.

And I’ll be with you most of the way in Provence–my favorite
region of France (apart from the Paris that I adore!). I can’t
wait to show you what life is like in the South of France…

Time is running out as there aren’t a lot of spots left. For
more information and details of what’s to come, click on:

Or call toll free to Agora Travel in Delray Beach, Florida (800)
926-6575; email: mailto:[email protected]

*** IT’S A SECRET . . . CLUB

It won’t be a secret for long…but it will be exclusive…for
lovers of Paris, for lovers of France and all things French. Get
ready to join, to have the key that unlocks the door, to be a
part of the family of Francophiles who want to dig deeper, know
more, become a real Parisian–for a moment, a day, a month, a

Watch this space…or watch your in box for what’s to come. It’s
the key to your heart.

* * * * * ADVERTISEMENT * * * * *


The latest Paris resource answers just about every
living-in-France question you have (over 200, in fact). Now, you
can have access to all these answers in a constantly-updated
informative–and interesting–guide.

To read more about this amazing reference, click here:

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Travel writers g
et to travel in style…and get paid for it. The
Ultimate Travel Writers Workshop teaches you how to make the
most of your writing and the most of your traveling, all at the
same time.

Workshop III, May 25th – 28th has less than a handful of spaces,
so don’t hesitate to check out what the participants said about
Workshops I and II:

"Well and enthusiastically presented; you all really do want to
share and I think you stimulated everyone to rush out and try
their hand."

— Bobbie Hamilton

Bobbie is a seasoned travel professional and she wasn’t the only
one who enjoyed the first two Workshops…you can read more
comments at

To avail of the early registration discount, contact Barbara
Perriello now: tel. 1-800-926-6575 or email:
mailto:[email protected]

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


"Savage/Love" and "Tongues"–both theatre pieces by Sam Shepard
and j2999eph Chaiken, starring Bremner Duthie, Marc Feldman and
Richard Dubelski. Directed by Lory Leshin. June 6/7/8/ at 8 p.m.
at L’Atelier du Plateau, 5 rue du Plateau (at the end of the
alley). Tickets: 8 to 11 euro. Métro Buttes-Chaumont or
Pyrénées. Kitchen and bar open one hour before the show.
Reservations and Information: 01 42 41 28 22,

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


By Elizabeth Reichert

The American Library has been serving the Paris Anglophone
community for over eighty years: they sent books to doughboys
during World War I, published the review Ex Libris from 1923
-1925, to which Stein and Hemingway contributed, and provided
writing and reading space to such members of the expatriate
community as Richard Wright, William Styron, and Irwin Shaw.

Today the American Library has 90,000 books, some of which were
part of Sylvia Beach’s circulation collection, 450 periodicals,
microfiche databases, Internet access for members, special
collections, and children’s story hours. They also sponsor
"Evenings with Writers," an event which began in 1933 and
included such figures as Colette, Stein and Gide among others.
Check out their Web site:, the bulletins in
the library, or the FUSAC to learn about current "Evenings with

You must become a member to use the American Library’s research
services or to check out their books.(The evenings with writers,
however, are open to the general public.) Membership fees range
from 8 euro (single day passes) to 70 euro (year-long passes for
seniors and students), and on up to 122 euro (year-long family

In order to take out a membership card you must supply the
following: a valid ID card with photo, an electricity or gas
bill sent to your current address, a recent photo, a student
card valid for at least six months of study, twelve hours per
week (if you are a student), and the membership fee payable by
cash or check. The American Library is a non-profit organization
subsisting on private donations, grants and membership fees–so
the fee is worth the services. If you are interested in donating
more money, inquire at the information desk and ask for the
Director, Kay Radar.

The American Library in Paris, 10 rue du Général Camou. Tel: Métro: Ecole Militaire, RER: Pont d’Alma. Open
Tuesday to Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.

Editor’s note: Elizabeth Reichert is the author of "Writer’s
Insider Guide to Paris", for novelists, journalists, poets,
dreamers, and doers alike. To read more, click here:


Go to /parlerparis/


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