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Fireworks And Drama On Bastille Day


July 15, 2002


The Fireman’s Balls were hopping on Saturday night–at
least the one on rue de Sevigné in the 4th was (I’ve heard
is the best one!). The line to get in the door close to
midnight was down the street, around the corner and blocks
down rue de Rivoli. If you were patient enough to stand the
test, by 3 a.m. you would have made it in.

There were twelve this year to put on your tapping shoes
for, one of which does its own fireworks show (the night
before the grand finale at the Eiffel Tower).

Le 14 Juillet started at 10 a.m. with the parade down the
Champs Elysées, perfectly viewable from the home "télé."
Jacques Chirac sat proudly watching the military exercises
before him while planes flew overhead in formation spewing
red, white and blue smoke from their engines.

Unbeknownst to M. Chirac, while engrossed in the
festivities, a would-be assassin was arrested after having
opened fire in his direction during the traditional
military parade. "I wanted to kill the president and put an
end to his days," he declared, armed with a 22 caliber

At the same time, a terribly distraught neighbor dangled
from her bathroom window on the 5th floor just outside my
kitchen window in the air shaft that affords light and air,
threatening to jump. Someone with her (whom I could not
see, but could hear) spent over five hours trying to coax
her out of her precarious position, to no avail.

At the point of hearing "au secours," I phoned the police
who landed on the premises within moments. Five or six
policemen quietly entered my apartment to get a glimpse of
her from my window and to discern how to reach her to
rescue her. I was impressed with how pleasant, polite and
"unmacho" they all were, a stark contrast to the Los
Angeles police I would have been hesitant to call on the

Silently, they managed to retrieve her and away they went
with her in a fire department rescue vehicle. Thank
goodness, there must have been at least a few fireman who
didn’t party too much the night before.

At 10 p.m. everyone was headed in the direction of the
Eiffel Tower. Camped out on the Champ de Mars there was a
sea of (what seemed like) about a million people, patiently
awaiting the annual fireworks display launched from a barge
on the Seine at Pont d’Iena between the tower and the

Slowly the sky turned a rich soft blue, the street lamps
along the grassy plain turned bright and the lights from
within the tower grew strong. The crowd was growing
restless, but just as night fell, the tower went to black,
music was heard from the distance and the fireworks display

On the occasion of the 200-year anniversary of the birth of
Victor Hugo (January 26, 1802 in Besançon), pyrotechnic
effects and projections of giant images on five balloons
were orchestrated to music and words of "Les Misérables"
during the course of 38-minutes. Oohs and aahs were heard
in unison with each new display of light and color, the
massive tower black against its brilliance. In a word,

At the end, when the smoke drifted away, we all applauded
the magnificently choreographed spectacle and with it, its
creators and organizers, Gérard Louvin of the company GLEM,
and Claude Brasseur, the actor who read Hugo’s memorable

The crowd dissipated slowly toward the entrances of nearby
Métro stations and I couldn’t help but remark to my friend,
"I am so thankful to live here." Then the Métro ride home
was a sardine-can squeeze, but nobody seemed to mind–a
small price to pay for another exquisite day in Paris.

A la prochaine fois,


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Parler Paris
Written and Edited by Adrian Leeds

Published by International Living
mailto:[email protected]

Issue Number 47, July 15, 2002

In this issue:

*** Italian Ice Invades the Island
*** Be Here for a Power Packed Conference October 18th
*** Plus Discover the French Countryside
*** Or Take the Three-month Dip
*** Have a Paris Portrait Painted
*** "These Are Streets That Must be Returned to"
*** Get Into Conversation All Summer Long
*** Get Real Reels Under the Stars
*** Become a Sandy Toed Parisian Along the Seine
*** Pastel Your Time Away in Paris Art Classes

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

* * * * * ADVERTISEMENT * * * * *


< br> Have you ever dreamed of working and living in France…but
just don’t know how to go about simply doing it?

What if you knew someone who had already done it? Navigated
the tricky French system…successfully dealt with
residency and work permits…knew how to find a
job…create a business…and more…

Plus, they’re willing to share with you everything they

To read more about this valuable resource, click here now:

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Bertillon ice cream, known as Paris’ best since 1954 on the
Ile Saint-Louis, is getting a run for its money with
Amorino Gelati e Delizie d’Italia just down the street.

Using a flat scoop, the creamy flavors are layered one
around the other to resemble a petaled flower. Flavors are
presented in the display bins as they come out of the
kitchen freshly made. Deliciously rich and creamy!

Try bacio (chocolate with hazelnut pieces), cocco
(coconut), fragola (strawberry), melone (cantaloupe),
limone (lemon), crema (egg-yolk custard), stracciatella
(chocolate chip), cioccolato (chocolate), nocciola
(hazelnut), pesca (peach) and more…

Amorino Gelati e Delizie d’Italia
47, rue Saint-Louis en lÍle, 4th,
And at 4, rue de Buci, 6th,


October 18 to 21, 2002

WATCH THIS SPACE–more information will be added each day!

If you’ve always dreamed of moving to France or starting a
new life in Paris, this power-packed conference is a MUST.

Hosted by the International Living Paris Office and Adrian
Leeds, director and editor of the Parler Paris newsletter,
these four full days in Paris will arm you with all the
information you need to make it happen!

The line-up for the conference includes seminars, tours,
round-table discussions, dinners, cocktails–with
well-known Paris-based experts in the fields of:

Otaining the Right to Be in France
Making the Move
Dealing with Technology
Finding Employment
Starting a Business
Finding Housing and Owning Property
Setting Up Your Finances
Health Care and Insurance
Bridging the Cultural Differences
Finding Properties for Sale and Rent in Paris


Languedoc Discovery Tour
October 22 – 26, 2002

Plus, if Paris isn’t enough…the day after the conference,
we’ll take you on a 5-day tour to the Languedoc region of
France, where you will discover quaint villages and
beautiful properties. See what the region has to offer for
an idyllic life. Meet with residents, journalists and real
estate agents and learn about finding your vacation,
retirement or primary home in the French countryside.

This is too important an opportunity to miss.

* Early registrants will receive a FREE electronic copy of
AND OUTS by Rose Marie Burke!!!

Each day, more information will be added to our Web site.
Start here:

Soon, a complete schedule will be posted…we’ll offer
hotels and apartments for a pleasant stay…and special
dinners to attend…

To read about our illustrious presenters, click here:

And before you pack your bags, be sure to read–Know Before
You Go:

To register or for more information:

In the U.S. or Canada
Barbara Perriello, Agora Travel
Phone: 1-800-926-6575 or 1-561-243-6276
mailto:[email protected]?subject=WorkingLivingConference

In France
Schuyler Hoffman, Assistant Director International Living
Paris Office
Phone: +33 (0) 1 40 27 97 59
mailto:[email protected]?subject=WorkingLivingC

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Editor’s Forward:

The Working and Living in France Conference is the first
time anyone has attempted to give you a first-hand
conversation with th
e experts who wrote the book on how to
make a life in France.

Long before the conference came to life, Rose Marie Burke,
author of the Insider Guide to Working and Living in
France, talks about an alternative method to the
conference: THE THREE MONTH DIP.

The conference hopes to turn a three-month quest into a
4-day fact-finding mission, saving you much time and
expense. If you can’t make the conference, then take Rose’s
advice. The following is an excerpt from the guide:

by Rose Marie Burke

I advise anyone thinking about a move to Paris to take a
fact-finding trip first. I recommend a three-month dip,
especially if you are planning to try to find a full-time
job, establish a business or become some other kind of
permanent Parisian.

Many people move to France cold turkey. Some manage to find
their feet, others drown. Americans, in particular, are
such optimists. It is one of our best and worst traits! We
believe that a different language and culture will be "no
problem." We assume we have the right to work and live in a
different country. We don’t! And Americans tend to dismiss
anyone who tries to "tell them like it is." Yeah, I thought
the same thing!

You may be saying, "I’ve been to Paris on vacation. I was
there for one week, 10 days, a month. It was great! I’d
love to move there." But there is a big difference between
being on vacation and actually living here, day in, day
out, damp gray winters as well of City of Light summers.
I’m sure you know the phrase, "It’s a great place to visit
. . ." Before you become a permanent resident, take a dip.
Consider it reconnaissance. A sabbatical. A splash of cold
water to bring some realism to the situation.

Truth in advertising, this guidebook can only go far
enough. Each person brings an individual life to Paris and
with them, a certain amount of "chutzpah" and plain old
luck. We can tell you that it is IMPOSSIBLE in your
situation to find a job, an apartment, etc, but there is
nothing like being here to prove us wrong. In France, there
is the law; application of the law is a different matter.
It is applied on a case-by-case basis. The exception seems
to disprove the rule!

After a quick dip, you may come to one of three
revelations: that you want to move there immediately, some
time in the future, or perhaps not at all.

Note: The Summer 2002 version of the Insider Guide to
Working and Living in France: The Ins and Outs at is
now available for immediate download. If you register for
the Working and Living in France Conference, you will
receive it FREE.

* * * * * ADVERTISEMENT * * * * *


If you’ve ever wanted to cruise the Caribbean, float down
the Danube, go fishing in Alaska…enjoy a romantic break
in Paris, this is your opportunity.

As a member of this club, not only could you get
complimentary travel but you could get paid to travel!

To find out how you can become a member click here:

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


The former Mayor of Paris, Jean Tiberi, posed for Kathy
Burke–and now you can, too!

Kathy Burke is currently working on the project of her
lifetime. "I want to paint 100 full-size standing portraits
of artists living and traveling through Paris–it is the
portrait of the creative experience." She adds: "A young
man leaves all he knows to come to Paris and become an
artist. He is as lost in the streets as the troubadours
before him. He stays. Creates. Refines his vision until it
is laser clear–until he is inside his dream. He is Paris.
I paint these artists where they are in their path–from
where I am in mine."

If you wish to take home special memories of Paris–have a
portrait painted by Kathy Burke. In one session of one to
four hours in Kathy’s beautiful atelier in the Marais,
you’ll have a painting to cherish forever, of yourself or
your loved ones.

Kathy Burke, has lived in Paris as a painter since she left
Los Angeles in 1971. She has show widely in galleries,
salons and museums in France and Europe. Her paintings have
found their appropriate places in numerous collections in
America. Humanity fascinates this superb figurative
painter. Over the years she has painted portraits of many
in the Paris art world.

For more information, visit:

If you want to be on her mailing list for upcoming shows or
would like more information or book your portrait sessions,
contact Kathy Burke at +33 (0) afternoons or
email:mailto:[email protected]?subject=ParlerPar

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

by Dale Gershwin, My Mercredi

At the place d’Estienne d’Orves streets straggle out around
the solidly centered Trinité Church like the frazzled
random strands of a ball of yarn the cat left behind. Tight
little streets, leading away from the Rue de Chateaudun and
the Rue de Provence whose prudent advisors work to make
sure you keep your money, out to the St-Lazare train
station and up to the avenue and place de Clichy whose
garish hucksters work to make sure you don’t. These are
streets that must be returned to. You’ll keep coming back,
you’ll see. They try to take you inside with them, aspirate
you into their mystery. It’s like going to the same film
fifteen times, always hoping the ending will be different
this time, this time the ending will be different. This
time you’ll see what happened all those other times after
the screen went black. You sit in a different seat, you go
at a different hour, and sometimes you think maybe you did
make the dead guy get up and walk away.

Nana walked these streets, Zola’s Nana and her friend Satin
walked them in fiction, and even more important Henry
Miller walked them in fact. One time when you come back
you’ll see Nana and Satin sweeping along the Rue des
Martyrs and then they’ll be invited into the Nouvelle
Athènes for an absinthe and you won´t see them anymore. But
if you wouldn’t have come back you wouldn’t have seen them.
One time when you come back you’ll see the buildings ripple
along the Rue Blanche, do deep-knee-bends in their spare
time in the rain.

But do not be taken in by buildings which pawn themselves
off as authentic ripplers but which are only out after your
life. Or worse–your money. The farther north you go, the
more you should be concerned about buildings with thin
mustaches and snug striped sailor t-shirts, scarves around
their necks and magnetic dark darty eyes, hiding knives in
their boots, keeping all the money their
girlfriend-buildings bring in from their neighborhood
nights, promising you it’s an authentic Rolex then taking
your last twenty euro.

Speaking of the Trinité church, did you know that: the
world-famous organist/composer Olivier Messian (1908-1992)
played the organ there for Sunday morning services?

To read more from My Mercredi, click here:


While most of Paris shuts down like a clam shell, the
Parler Parlor French-English conversation group stays open
all summer long.

Your first session is free! When you arrive, Adrian or
Elisabeth will direct you into a group that suits your

Sessions are Tuesdays 6:30 to 8 p.m., Thursdays 6:30 to 8
p.m. and Saturdays 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. at

14 rue La Fayette, 4th Floor
9th arrondissement, Paris
Métro Chaussée d’Antin, Opéra,
RER A Auber
And for traveling Anglophones, take advantage of the
one-month membership for 50 euro or pay per session only 10
euro. Anglophones receive a 10% discount on all other
Email: mailto:[email protected] or call Elisabeth
Crochard at or Adrian Leeds at

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Pack a picnic and head to Parc de la Villette for the 13th
annual Festival de Cinéma. Beginning tomorrow night (June
16th), and every evening except Mondays till August 25th,
take in a movie at the Prairie du Triangle, Métro Porte de
Pantin. This year’s theme: "Frontières" for films such as
Stanley Kubrick’s "2001, A Space Odyssee" and others.

For the complete schedule of films, click here:


July 21st through August 18th

Next Sunday, put on your bathing suit, gather up your towel
and sun screen and head to the beach…right here in Paris!
Between the quai des Tuileries and the quai Henri VI, three
kilometers of the right bank of the Seine will become a
sandy beach complete with volley-ball courts (at Place de
l’Hôtel de Ville and at Pont Neuf), grassy areas, cabanas,
ice cream vendors, umbrellas and palm trees.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


I’ll be spending 5 weeks in Paris this October and wish to
enroll in a drawing or painting with pastel class. Would
you please refer me to a few schools/ people who offer
affordable classes for the time I’ll be there? Lois

Lois–here are a couple of starting places:

The American University of Paris
Division of Continuing Education & Summer Programs
102, rue St. Dominique
75007 Paris, France

one : 33 / (0)1 40 62 06 14
or 33 / (0)1 40 62 05 76
Fax : 33 / (0)1 40 62 07 17
E-mail : [email protected]

20, bd du Montparnasse
75015 Paris, France
From inside France:
From outside of France: +
From inside France:
From outside of France: +

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


If you are not a member of the Paris Key Club, and would
like to be, click here for more information:

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


Go to /parlerparis/

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


If you would like to have your message read by the
subscribers of the Parler Paris Nouvellettre®, please email me
at mailto:[email protected]

If you have links about Paris or France and would like
reciprocal links, please email me at
mailto:[email protected]

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


If you’re not a regular reader of this e-letter, and would
like to be, simply enter your e-mail address here (it’s

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Know someone who would be interested in the opportunities
in this e-letter? Forward it to your friend, relative, or

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Go to:

Copyright 2002 Agora Ireland Publishing & Services Ltd.

TO: [email protected] OR GO TO OUR WEB INTERFACE


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