Terrace With A View

PARLER PARIS: TERRACE WITH A VIEW

September 16, 2002

*** A VISIT TO THE MONUMENTS–LES JOURNEES DU PATRIMOINE

Now that the Parler Parlor French-English conversation
group holds its Saturday sessions at the language school
Eurocentres just off rue Dauphine in the 6th, it’s an
opportunity to head home taking a very scenic path by
crossing the Pont Neuf, skirting the tip of the Ile de la
Cité and the stunning triangular Place Dauphine. Just ahead
is La Samaritaine, Paris’ oldest department store (founded
in 1870 by Ernest Cognacq and his wife Marie-Louise Jay), a
fabulous example of classic Art Nouveau architecture.

Unfortunately (and this is strictly my own opinion), the
interior architecture has lost its splendor with the
contemporary needs of retailing today imposing walls to
create departments which aren’t meant to be there.
Fortunately, it’s said to be Paris’ largest department
store, and I can contest that there is plenty of interest
to buy there (check out the new designer shoe department on
the Rez de Chausée).

Fortunately again, La Samaritaine has one of the finest
views of Paris from its rooftop, accessible to the public
by taking the elevator to the 11th floor. They charge 2
euro for access to the uppermost part, but from the terrace
café, just behind the enormous letters "L-A
S-A-M-A-R-I-T-A-I-N-E," you can snack on (bad) sandwiches
and pizzas and salads while taking in a breathtaking view
of the city.

While considered historically important, La Samaritaine is
NOT part of this year’s "Les Journées du Patrimoine"–the
19th year (always the third weekend in September) that the
Ministry of Culture opens the doors to the public of great
monuments all over France that aren’t normally!

"Les Journées du Patrimoine" takes place next Saturday and
Sunday, the 21st and 22nd of September, so mark your
calendar now and make your list of places to visit.

Very popular places, such as the Palais de l’Elysée at 55,
rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (M° Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau)
are tough to get in, so plan to stand in long lines (open
Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.)

Lesser known–but what I hear is worth a visit is–the
Ambassade de Grande-Bretagne just down the street at 39,
rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré (M° Concorde). Built between
1722 and 1725 by Antoine Mazin as the Hôtel de Charost for
Paul-François de Béthune-Charost, the marquis de l’Ancenis,
and inhabited during the Revolution, it was sold in 1803 by
his widow to Pauline Leclerc, Napoléons favorite sister.
When the Duke of Wellington purchased it under the name of
George the III in 1814, with the furnishings and décor of
the First Empire, it was then opened as the first Embassy
of Great Britain. Open Saturday only 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

For the entire list of Paris monuments to visit, click on
http://www.jp.culture.fr/, then click on "Entrée," then
click on "Ile de France."

A la prochaine fois,

Adrian

P.S. For those of you celebrating what in the Jewish
religion is the holiest day of the year, Yom Kippur, let us
atone for our sins and pray for peace in the Middle East
and an end to anti-semitic sentiment all over the world.
For an important view point on the recent anti-semitic
activities here in France, scroll down to read Toni Kamins’
editorial…

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Parler Paris
/parlerparis/
Written and Edited by Adrian Leeds

Published by International Living
http://www.internationalliving.com
[email protected]

Issue Number 56, September 16, 2002

In this issue:

*** On This Day of Atonement–Understanding the
Anti-Semitism in France
*** The Poutres Aren’t Real at Santa Lucia, But the Pizza
is Great!
*** A Special Deal–Come to Hear Bill Speak, Dine and Take
the Grand Tour with Thirza
*** The Itinerary to Languedoc-Roussillon Just Keeps
Getting Better
*** Mark March on Your Poetry Reading Calendar
*** Free Play Readings in English at Carr’s
*** If Your Single and Female, There’s a Guest Room and a
Guide For You

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*** SHANAH TOVAH–AN IMPORTANT OPINION OF ANTI-JEWISH
VIOLENCE IN FRANCE TODAY
By Toni Kamins

Toni Kamins is the author of the soon-to-be-launched
"Insider Guide to Jewish Paris"
(http://www.insiderparisguides.com) and in paperback, The
Complete Jewish Guide to France
(/parlerparis/books/index.html). She is a
freelance journalist and former editor and has covered an
array of Jewish and secular subjects for The New York
Times, The New York Daily News, The Jerusalem Post, New
York Magazine, the Village Voice, the Forward and other
publications as well as websites devoted to France, travel,
and to Jewish topics. She has also contributed articles on
the Middle East and the Holocaust to reference books and
contributed to a number of major travel guides.

Toni has Jewish heritage in her genes: For generations
there have been rabbis in her family, and family legend has
it that she is descended from Rabbi Judah Loew of Prague,
the 16th century creator of the Golem.

On the occasion of the holiest day of the year in the
Jewish religion, I invite you to read an editorial Toni
wrote which appeared in the Los Angeles Time in April of
this past year at this link:
/parlerparis/articles/antijewishviolence.html

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*** QUOTE OF THE WEEK–LES POUTRES…WOOD OR PLASTIC?

You had to be there…

During dinner this past weekend, at one of my favorite
restaurants in the 6th, decorated with "poutres" (ceiling
beams), we were discussing whether the beams were authentic
or "faux," made of real wood, but added recently, and cut
to look like a relic of the 17th-century. In fact, they
were. A visiting American with us expounded on the beams he
built in his own house in Florida that were plastic but
‘amazingly’ looked like real wood. A Frenchman at the
table, who had lived in the States many years, remarked
quite quickly…"I’ll be damned if I’ll ever put plastic
beams in my house!"

And at that moment, we all experienced a French-American
"culture clash"–the kind that hits us in the face and
reminds us of our differences, of which there are many.

**** THE RESTAURANT WITH FAUX POUTRES–SANTA LUCIA
By Adrian Leeds, an excerpt from the Leeds Good Value Guide
to Paris Restaurants
(http://www.insiderparisguides.com/restaurants/index.html)

The pocket of tiny streets adjacent to rue des Cannettes
(including rue Princesse and rue Guisarde) are door-to-door
restaurants. It is easy to be confused as to which are
worthy and which are just tourist traps serving mediocre
food, even at reasonable prices. Around the corner, Le
Bistrot d’Henri on rue Princesse is one you can depend on
to be very good. Santa Lucia is, too, and offers an old
world atmosphere with wood beams and bench seats. Clientele
is mostly business people from the neighborhood who are "in
the know." Family photos fill the walls and professional
waiters who have been there a lifetime (the restaurant
opened in 1961!) will make sure everything is perfect. A
woodburning oven in the back can account for what some of
my readers say is the best pizza in Paris. Pasta like
"Parpardelle mare Monte," with large shrimp, girolles (wild
mushrooms) and cream could be a special of the day (be sure
to check the blackboard for about 5 or so to choose from).
The tiramisu is not overly alcoholic, but creamy. You will
leave quite content for the price and feel you found a
"bonne adresse" among the many others.

SANTA LUCIA
22, rue des Canettes, Arrondissement 6
Phone 01.43.26.42.68
Métro Mabillon, Saint-Germain-des-Près, Odéon
Closed Monday and Tuesday Lunch
Per Person 28 euro – 22 euro: Pizza 11 euro – 13 euro,
Pastas 11 euro – 20 euro, Plats 15 euro – 20 euro, Desserts
5 euro – 7 euro, Wine 25 cl 5 euro – 6 euro, 50 cl 6 euro –
9 euro

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** BILL BONNER OFFERS WORDS ABOUT COUNTRY LIVING IN
FRANCE

Bill Bonner, International Living’s Founding Officer,
president of Agora Publishing, and the author of the free
daily e-mail The Daily Reckoning moved to France, bought a
"country house" about 5 years ago (Chateau d’Ouzilly,
http://www.internationalliving.com/chatea

u/) and has been
renovating it ever since! It’s a Peter Mayle story American
style and worth hearing.

Bill will be speaking at the upcoming Working and Living in
France Conference at the opening ceremonies Friday, October
18th at Chez Jenny. The trials and tribulations of home
ownership in the countryside of France is guaranteed to be
enlightening.

Spaces for the conference are limited–and only a few are
left…so now is the time to make your plans.

* OR, if you are interested in participating in just the
Opening night speakers, have dinner at Chez Jenny and then
join us only for the Grand Tour of Paris by Thirza Vallois
on Sunday morning, we are making SPECIAL ACCOMMODATIONS AND
PRICE FOR YOU.

For more information about the conference, visit:
http://www.ildiscoverytours.com/paris/pp/ or write us at
mailto:[email protected]?subject=DinnerandTour
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE FRIDAY NIGHT/SUNDAY MORNING
PARTICIPATION.

*** THE DISCOVERY TOUR TO LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON GETS BETTER
AND BETTER

Languedoc yields 40% of France’s wine production…and
naturally, is an unhurried pace of ancient towns and
country villas, a land of troubadours and the Mediterranean
sun. It is also home to some of the last great real estate
values in the South of France. And now, it’s easy to get
to. The TGV takes you there in a mere three-and-a-half
hours.

I will be traveling here myself October 22-27, 2002, to
explore the opportunities firsthand. With me, I am taking a
small group of you interested readers.

The itinerary has been going through a metamorphosis,
improving each facet of the trip along the way. For the
latest schedule detailing all you will do and visit, click
here: http://www.ildiscoverytours.com/south_france/pp/

If you have not already confirmed your place with me on the
tour, get in touch with Barbara Perriello in our tour
office in the U.S. at 800-926-6575, e-mail:
mailto:[email protected] She can answer any
questions and make your reservation to join our group.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** POETS AND POETRY LOVERS–CELEBRATE WORLD POETRY day,
MARCH 21ST, 2003

World Poetry day, March 21st, is dedicated to the important
role of poetry in the our everyday lives. World Poetry Day
was created by UNESCO in 1999 to lend recognition and new
impetus to poetic movements around the world.

UNESCO’s director-general, Koïchiro Matsuura, said, "Poetry
is not very demanding: a voice or a sheet of paper are
enough to give it life. We meet with poetry at all times
and in all places, thus proving its universality and
transcendental nature." And as Eugène Delacroix, the
renowned French artist (1798-1863), said, "There is no art
without poetry."

We will be celebrating World Poetry day, March 21, 2003
with special poetry workshops, speakers, discussions and
readings the days before and the days after, led by
published poet, Cecilia Woloch.

* To read FILTH, a poem written by Cecilia Woloch about the
"dirtier" side of Paris, visit:
/parlerparis/articles/filth.html

* To learn more about the upcoming event or to be put on a
special mailing
list for the PARIS POETRY WORKSHOP, send an email to
mailto:[email protected]?subject=Poetry

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** ENGLISH THEATER IN PARIS–PLAY READINGS BY MOVING
PARTS

All readings take place at Carr’s Restaurant, 1 rue du Mont
Thabor, 75001 Paris

7:30 pm Sunday, 29th September
Jean-Claude Gerbeaud "Les Chats Vénitiens" (in French)

7:30 pm Sunday, 13th October
Tom O’Brien "Openings" and "Choice" (both in English)

7:30 pm Sunday, 20th October
Lance Tait "Madagascar", "The Fall of the House of Usher"
(after Edgar Allen Poe) and "Never Let Them See You Sweat"
(all in English)

7:30 pm Sunday, 27th October
Murray Kaufman "2140" (in English)

For more information, visit the Web site at:
http://www.scamparis.com or http://www.movingparts.asso.fr

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** GUEST ROOM FOR SINGLE WOMAN

Why stay alone in a hotel room when you can stay in a
lovely newly remodeled bedroom? Located in a 17th century
70 square meter Marais apartment, the surrounding
neighborhood will have you feeling like you live in Paris.
Available for short-term rental (one to two weeks) by a
single woman, to share with owner, Adrian Leeds, Director
of International Living Paris Office. Share bath and
communal apartment areas such as living room and kitchen.
All linens supplied and completely equipped with Internet
access, CD/Cassette player and cable TV. References
mandatory.

Pictures and more details available here:
/parlerparis/pr
operty/leeds.html

*** BEING SINGLE IN A ROMANTIC CITY LIKE PARIS COULD MAKE A
WOMAN FEEL INSECURE
by Christiann Anderson

Few guides on the market today are geared specifically for
single women living and traveling in Paris. Most guides may
list safety tips for women traveling alone, or give list of
hotels that cater to the English speaker, however, few
guides will tell you about being out there in the
"trenches" of the real dating scene in the City of Light.
The good, the bad, and the sometimes, ugly nature of the
single French man. I should know! I have lived happily
single in Paris for over 10 years. By trial and error, I
found that being a single woman in the city of Light can be
either a daunting experience, or an adventure filled with
excitement and discovery.

Because being single in a romantic city like Paris could
make a woman feel insecure, and some women may feel tempted
to give-in to feelings of self-loathing. However, Paris is
such a gloriously beautiful and fun city that can be lots
of fun if you know where to go and where to avoid. I
encourage you to be adventurous and discover all parts of
Paris, and not only the places where few tourists tread.
The City of Light is an exciting place for the single
traveler, and, whether you are in your twenties or in your
sixties, Paris is filled with excitement and discovery with
something for just about every taste.

Many women come to Paris looking for romance, drama, and
excitement. Frankly, there is no better place on earth to
find all three. Always remember that there are benefits in
being single: You do not have to compromise. You get to
know yourself better and discover what you enjoy in your
life. When you are in the City of Light, you know you are
in for an adventure.

COMING SOON–THE SINGLE WOMAN’S INSIDER GUIDE TO PARIS
(http://www.insiderparisguides.com) To order your copy in
advance or be notified of what the guide is available,
email
mailto:[email protected]?subject=SingleWoman

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

TO READ MORE:

Go to /parlerparis/

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

HAVE A SPECIAL MESSAGE? WANT TO EXCHANGE LINKS?

If you would like to have your message read by the
subscribers of the Parler Paris Nouvellettre^®, please e-mail
me at [email protected]

If you have links about Paris or France and would like
reciprocal links, please e-mail me at
[email protected]

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

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