The Fashion Capital Of The World

While everyone else is talking about Christmas and New Year’s…
I have something different on my mind: Paris fashion.

New Yorkers and Milaneses may argue with me, but Paris is,
among most, certainly considered the Fashion Capital of the
World. Walk down any "petit rue" in the heart of Paris and you
will see women over the age of 30 in a style we will forever
term as "chic"–so well "ensembled" as to be incredibly well
"put together" yet totally uncontrived.

What got me started on fashion this holiday season, however,
was first, Jackie O’s fashions from the years of the presidency
(John F.’s, not Ari’s) on exhibit at the Musée de la Mode et du
Textile stirred me. Then, there was the distinct pleasure of
yesterday visiting the current exhibit at the Musée Galliera-Musée
de la Mode de la Ville de Paris of Henry Clarke’s Vogue
fashion photos from the ’50s and ’60s, the first retrospective
ever of his work during this period
(http://www.paris-france.org/musees/musee_galliera/).

Le Palais Galliera, situated on a grand property between
avenue du Président Wilson and rue Pierre Charron, was built
between 1878 and 1894, at the request of Marie Brignole-Sale,
Duchess of Galliera, to exhibit works of art she wished to
donate to the state. Throughout the years, it has held various
exhibitive purposes, mostly related to fashion, and in 1997
was inaugurated as the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.
(For an indepth look at the Palais Galliera, visit
http://www.paris-france.org/musees/musee_galliera/Musee/historique-musee/historique_musee_cadres.htm)

Clarke was one of Vogue’s (and Condé-Nast’s) finest photographers
among prestigious colleagues such as Cecil Beaton, Horst P.
Horst and Irving Penn. Over the course of more than 20 years,
he worked for the U.S., French and British editions of Vogue,
some of which were under the direction of Diana Vreeland,
Editor in Chief of Vogue U.S.

He worked with a selective group of models and beautiful
women: Anna Magnani, Sophia Loren, Catherine Deneuve
and top models Ann Saint-Marie, Bettina and Veruschka in
fashions by the "grands couturiers" Fath, Dior, Balenciaga,
Chanel, Pierre Balmain and others.

What’s most interesting is that Clarke was an American who
had truly "made-it" in Paris. He was considered the most
"Parisian" of the American photographers–he had "crossed over"
as many do who live and work here just as any Parisian, but
forever to be claimed as an American.

The American community in Paris continues to produce "made-its"–
those American Expats who are accomplished in their fields,
recognized by both the French and the Americans for their
outstanding work. It is these people that in these electronic
pages we continue to support in their efforts and I urge you
to do the same.

So read on, scroll down for more about the cultural events
they offer you…and do show your support, too, by participating
in whatever you can!

See you there, a la prochaine fois,

Adrian
Email: mailto:[email protected]

P.S. Henry Clarke: Photographe de Mode. Until March 2, 2003,
Open Everyday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. except Monday at the Musée
Galliera-Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris, 10, avenue
Pierre Ier de Serbie, 75016 Paris, 01 44 78 75 26

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Issue Number 68, December 9, 2002

In this issue:

*** See You Tomorrow Après-Midi
*** Two and a Half Kilometers of Lights on the Champs-Elysées
*** Get the Inside Information on Paris Property
*** How to Dial an 800 Number and Other Tips for Expats
*** Older Parisians are a Good Sign of Good Cooking
*** Make a Writing Career from Your Traveling–Another Ultimate Workshop
*** Moving to France? Get the Answers in June in Person or Now on Cassette
*** Poetry in French and English with Jamme and Notley
*** Paris is for Lovers and Lovers of Poetry
*** A French Château Needs Someone to Watch Over It
*** Come for Vin de Noël, Hors d’Oeuvres and Conversation
*** In a Beautiful Studio, A Portrait Painting Live
*** Internationally Minded Club Meets Tuesday Night
*** A Commemorative Plaque at Place d’Italie

*** SEE YOU TOMORROW AT "PARLER PARIS APRES-MIDI"

We’re looking forward to meeting you tomorrow, December
10th, 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. for the first of many to come…
"PARLER PARIS APRES-MIDI."

LE WEB BAR, 32 Rue de Picardie, 75003 Paris
Métro Temple or République

Come tomorrow and every SECOND TUESDAY of the month
from now on for coffee (or whatever your heart desires) and
conversation with Parler Paris writers and editors and Parler
Paris readers.

Everyone is invited to join us and it’s sure to be a great way
of meeting new people, putting faces to their e-mails and
enjoying Paris all the more!

For the year’s calendar and more information, click on
/parlerparis/apresmidi.html

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** LIGHTING UP THE CHAMPS-ELYSEES
— by Adrian Leeds

The avenue de Champs-Elysées is lit as always for Christmas,
with lights strung on each tree lining it from Place de la Concorde
to the Arc de Triomphe–two-and-one-half kilometers of
lights. The display uses 135,000 15-watt bulbs, 45 kilometers
of garlands and 40 kilometers of cables to illuminate the range
of trees on the two side of the avenue. The French claim it is
the most beautiful avenue in the world and who am I to disagree?
Especially during this month, when the City of Light lives
up to its name to the fullest.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** INSIDE INFORMATION ON PARIS PROPERTY

If you’re interested in renting, buying or investing in an apartment
in Paris or a home in France, then be sure to read Schuyler
Hoffman’s PARIS PROPERTY INSIDER every Thursday.
When you subscribe to Parler Paris, you automatically
receive Paris Property Insider.

And if you need advice on WORKING AND LIVING IN
FRANCE, BUYING, SELLING, RENTING PROPERTY
CONSULTATION OR WHERE TO FIND PROFESSIONAL
CONSULTATION, our office is here to help you. Visit
/parlerparis/services/consultationservices.html
for more information.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** SECRETS AND TIPS FOR EXPATS

Sometimes it takes years to "learn the ropes" here in France.
Rose Burke’s Insider Paris Guide, "Working and Living in
France," calls it the "ins and outs." Regardless of what we call
them, these tiny tips make life in France a whole lot easier…

1. When you dial an 800 number from France, you must dial
880 in its place, and it’s not free! You’ll pay the same as for
any other long distance call to the U.S.

2. If you can, keep at least one credit card with a U.S. address
so that you can order things online without any problem. The
verification systems online most often do not recognize foreign
zip codes.

3. Mail can be forwarded from a U.S. address to your France
address free of charge by the U.S. Postal Service indefinitely.
Have the mail go to a friend or relative who is willing to label
it (you provide the labels) and drop it back in the mailbox.

4. One of the least expensive and most practical long distance
services to call to anywhere from anywhere is Acculinq, at
http://www.acculinq.com–per minute rates:

Continental US to FRANCE–(800 numbers) $0.085, (local numbers) $0.045
Continental US to FRANCE-PARIS–(800 numbers) $0.079, (local numbers) $0.039
France to Continental US–$0. 169

5. The U.S. dollar is weakening against the euro. Protect your
savings by moving a portion of your cash to a French savings
account, but not a round number like $10,000, which sends up
"red flags" with the IRS.

EDITOR’S NOTE:
Your tips and suggestions are welcome–so if you have any
you’d like the readers to know about, e-mail:
mailto:[email protected]?subject=Tips
And for more information about "Working and Living in France:
The Ins and Outs" visit http://www.insiderparisguides.com/workandlive/index.html

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** OLDER PARISIANS ARE DEMANDING OF GOOD
QUALITY SIMPLE COOKING

RESTAURANT DU LUXEMBOURG
— Adrian Leeds

It’s obvious when you enter this quaint little old-world corner
restaurant that the residents of the Luxembourg Gardens
neighborhood frequent it regularly for its homey decor, good
food and amiable service. It is not unusual to see older
women dining alone and then chatting lightl

y among themselves
across the tables! Recently it was filled with men dining alone,
doing much the same, not to mention table upon table of
older
neighborhood business people! This is a good sign, as older
Parisians are demanding of good quality simple cooking.
Miniature turn-of-the-century posters adorn the walls, dark
red bench seats with tables lined up and touching to make
use of every inch is all part of the charm.

Normally the plat du jour is a particular bargain, à la carte
can still be under 15 euro. Menu fare is traditional and typical:
cassoulet, confit de canard, côtes d’agneau or bavette. Don’t
expect much fish on the menu and that’s subject to having it
fresh, too. The owner is loaded with charm and watches every
table carefully to make sure everything is perfect as he shuffles
quickly from one end to the other keeping everyone happy,
serving the tables all by himself.

Al Yuen wrote: "Took in Restaurant du Luxembourg and La
Fontaine de Mars for lunch. Good food, service."

Don Knapik wrote: "Yes, the owner is loaded with charm.
The duck cassoulet was very tasty on a chilly rainy day, as was
the shrimp salad with Gruyere. We had a nice conversation with
the owner after the place emptied out around 2 p.m. Very
pleasant and a great find."

Margo Classé wrote in her 2000 edition of Hello France! A
Hotel Guide to Paris: "Wonderful but a little higher priced.
The owner, Mr. Sylvain Pommereau, is loaded with charm.
You’ll recognize him because he is the maître d’, waiter and busboy."

Pat and Phil Newman wrote: " We liked Le Restaurant
Luxembourg very much. Great service, excellent food."

RESTAURANT DU LUXEMBOURG
Traditional French
44, rue d’Assas, Arrondissement 6
Phone 01.45.48.90.22
Métro Rennes, Saint Placide, Notre Dame des Champs
Closed Saturday Evening, Sunday, Holidays,
1 Week in February, August
A La Carte Menu: Average 22 euro per Person

EDITOR’S NOTE: This review is an excerpt from the "Leeds
Good Value Guide to Paris Restaurants." A new edition was
just updated THIS MORNING and is available for download by
visiting http://www.insiderparisguides.com/restaurants/index.html

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** TRAVEL WRITERS… GET YOUR PENS OUT AND
READY TO WRITE

The details are coming together for yet another UTLIMATE
TRAVEL WRITERS WORKSHOP here in Paris this coming
April 24 – 28, 2003.

Here’s what past participants had to say about our last one:

"More than I expected. Everything was breezy and natural
and very informative. I was never bored and I’d like to know
where and when you’ll be doing the next one."
-Connie Daley

"Material covered was extensive but well presented in the
time permitted. We were impressed as to how well qualified
and informed our instructors are."
-Duane and Harlene Harm

"Well and enthusiastically presented; you all really do want
to share and I think you stimulated everyone to rush out and
try their hand."
-Bobbie Hamilton

To get a glimpse of what’s to come, visit
/parlerparis/travelwriters/index.html and to be
on a special mailing list for more information, e-mail
mailto:[email protected]?subject=TravelWriters

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** ANOTHER WORKING AND LIVING IN
FRANCE COMING THIS JUNE

Plans are in the works for another bigger and better conference
here in Paris for all of you contemplating living here, working
here, investing here! To be placed on a special mailing list to
be notified about the June conference, please send an e-mail to:
mailto:[email protected]?subject=WorkandLiveJune2003

Meanwhile, if you want a glimpse of what was and what is to
come, then you still have a chance–

Both a two-hour events souvenir video and a ten-hour multi-cassette
set of the ENTIRE CONFERENCE LIVE ON VIDEO are
available from International Living and Prime Cut Productions
in both U.S. format (NTSC) and European format (PAL).

You’ll have the opportunity to see and hear for yourself the
essence of all the professionals speaking at the Conference–
almost as good as having been there!

TO ORDER YOUR VIDEOS, you may go directly to our
online secure payment order form at
http://www.insiderparisguides.com/order/videosorder.html or
e-mail: mailto:[email protected]?subject=ConferenceVideos

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** A READING IN FRENCH AND ENGLISH

The Franco-Américaine Association, Double Change
(http://www.doublechange.com) and La Galerie Eof invites
you to a bilingual poetry reading Tuesday, December 17th at 7 p.m.:

La Galerie Eof
15 rue Saint-Fiacre, 75002 Paris
M

étro Grands Boulevards (ligne 8 ou 9)

Featuring poets
FRANCK A
NDRE JAMME (author of six books of poetry
and prose) and ALICE NOTLEY (author of more than 20
books of poetry)

For more information, contact: Omar Berrada, mailto:[email protected],
01 58 30 75 68 or Olivier Brossard, mailto: [email protected], 01
46 28 20 29

*** PARIS FOR POETRY AND PROSE THIS MARCH!

If you are seriously interested in writing poetry, whether you’re a
beginner or a "closet poet" or an experienced writer who wishes to grow in
your craft and discipline…then seriously consider coming to Paris to
learn from the best!

PARIS POETRY WORKSHOP /parlerparis/poetry/index.html

The International Living PARIS POETRY WORKSHOP is an intensive four-days
with master instructor and published American poet, and Workshop Director
CECILIA WOLOCH, and guest instructors and speakers such as JEFFREY GREENE
and ELIZABETH REICHERT and many more (to be announced).

There are only 12 spaces available for those who wish to take the complete
workshop (morning, afternoon and evening sessions).

There are only 6 spaces available for those who wish to take only the
part-time workshop (afternoon and evening sessions).

Visit: /parlerparis/poetry/index.html for all the details!

There’s more…

WORLD POETRY DAYS /parlerparis/poetry/worldpoetryday.html

THE LITERARY LEFT BANK TOUR /parlerparis/poetry/literarytour.html

SURVIVAL FRENCH /parlerparis/poetry/survivalfrench.html

FAREWELL DINNER /parlerparis/poetry/dinnerreading.html

Paris Poetry Workshop: /parlerparis/poetry/index.html

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR FOR ACCOMMODATIONS CONTACT:
Schuyler Hoffman, Assistant Director International Living
Paris Office Phone: +33 (0) 1 40 27
97 59 Fax: +1 (801) 640-2485 E-mail:
mailto:france@internationalliving

TO REGISTER FOR THE WORKSHOP CONTACT:
(In the U.S. or Canada) Barbara Perriello
Agora Travel 235 NE 4th Avenue,
Suite 102 Delray Beach, FL 33483
Tel: 1-800-926-6575 or 1-561-243-6276
Fax: 1-561-278-8765
E-mail mailto:[email protected]

*** IN THE FRENCH COUNTRYSIDE…

Between Limoges and Poitiers…a French château needs someone
to watch over it.

The guesthouse is available, FREE, to someone who will
keep an eye on things. No work required. But must be prepared
to stay for at least a month or two.

If you’re seriously interested, this is a serious offer! E-mail:
mailto:[email protected]?subject=Caretaker

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** THE BEST "VIN DE NOEL" IN PARIS COMES
WITH CONVERSATION

I had a terrible "Vin de Nöel" at Le George V on the Champs-Elysées
this past weekend…hot foamy wine, sugar served on the side
and cinnamon in a shaker to add to it.

We’re cookin’ up the "real thing" this Saturday, December
14th at Parler Parlor–during our Vin de Nöel party at Eurocentres.

Come for conversation at 11 a.m. and then stay for VIN DE
NOEL and hors d’oeuvres! Be sure to bring your French-speaking
friends to practice their English with us, too.

Five euro per person…plus take an additional 10% discount
off any membership registration that day!

For more information, visit: http://www.parlerparlor.com/

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** IN A BEAUTIFUL ATELIER WITNESS A PORTRAIT
PAINTING OVER A GLASS OF WINE

Kathy Burke is currently painting 100 life size portraits of
players in the international creative world. The next session is
Thursday, December 12th
at 6 p.m. You are invited into her studio to participate in the
process of the portrait session. Newcomers are welcome.
Oldtimers will see a new model being painted each time.

If you’ve never witnessed Kathy Burke painting a portrait
before your very eyes in her beautiful atelier in Le Marais,
then this is your chance!

Thursday, December 12th 6 p.m.
55 rue Meslay, 74003 Paris
interphone: A 27 + APPEL

Learn more about Kathy’s work on Parler Paris:
/parlerparis/art/burke.html and on her own site:
http://www.parisportraits.com/events.html

E-mail mailto:[email protected]

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** THE CLUB FOR "INTERNATIONALLY-MINDED PEOPLE"

KUNVENO organizes social evenings every 2nd Tuesday of
every month. The next one is tomorrow the 10th of December
from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. at THE POLOROOM, 3, rue Lord Byron,
75008 Paris, Métro: George V or Etoile

There are no membership or entrance fees–Kunveno is entirely
supported by sponsors. Kunveno members will be offered
Happy Hour prices at The Polo Room all evening. For more
information or to sign up, you can visit http://www.kunveno.com

For those who have already registered, your membership card
will be waiting for you there. Newcomers will be able to sign
up and receive their card during the evening if they wish.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

*** MORE COMMEMMORATIVE PLAQUES
IN PARIS TO DISCOVER

Years ago–more than I care to remember!–when I first came
here as a student, one of the first things that made a huge
impression on me were the plaques on the buildings commemorating
the atrocities of WWII, specifically those describing the deportation
of the Jews.

As a young kid from Cleveland who was now actually standing
on the very same places, and not all that long afterward, it sent
shivers up my spine…and to this day I still notice, and stop
and read all those plaques.

What might interest you: a few weeks ago, in the Place d’Italie,
where I seldom go, I was somewhat startled to see a plaque
(On the Post Office, I think) that specifically stated that the
French Government–no mention of the Germans–was responsible
for the local round-up of the Jews in the neighborhood, and
deporting them to the camps.

I had my camera with me that day, and took a photo of it.
So someday when you’re in that area, maybe you’ll notice it, too.

And just when we think those days are behind us, …Kenya!

David B.