Giving Thanks—Merci Pour Tout

It’s the day, the week and the month, to give thanks.

First off, thanks to all of you who wrote in or posted or somehow sent congratulatory messages to me for the birth of my grandson. I now know what it’s like to experience one’s own child having his or her own child, seeing that precious little being fed and nurtured to become a little person himself. In just one week, Little Leeds has gained an ounce a day, his cheeks have filled out, his body showing real strength and he’s coming into the world just like each one of us did when we were born.

There are four of us here who vie for his attention: my daughter, her close friend, the daddy and me. No one wants to put him down, and we all just stare at him and watch his new little face make all sorts of sweet expressions as he drinks his milk from a breast or a bottle, or burps it up or poops it out. When I am lucky enough to be feeding or holding him, he stares up at me quizzically. I assume the red lips and red eyeglasses get his attention and that because of them he will always know who his Glamma is!

I’m already dreading the moment I have to leave in about a week’s time, say “au revoir” and head back to real life in France without him…until I can get back to Maui or he comes to France and becomes a little Frenchman himself. It’s understandable why the one reason some people move back to the U.S. from France after having lived there a long time is for the grandkids. Fortunately, over time, he’s more likely to come to me in France than me to him in the U.S. My daughter wants to raise him in France, where he will get a better education, live a more global life and have all the benefits France has to offer in culture, lifestyle and morality. Again, I am thankful to France, even if I must endure some time without him near me.

I’ve already warned my daughter that we will find a time to connect on Facetime or Whatsapp or Zoom every single day, in spite of the 11-hour time difference between France and Maui…because Glamma won’t be able to stand it any other way! She just chuckled and said, “Of course.” And I’ve already booked my return to Maui in February, because three months is already way too long a stretch if I want to watch him grow and turn into that little man we envision.

MANAGING MONEY

I was at the little desk Erica set up for me in my room in her house at 7:30 a.m. on Thursday ready to launch the North American Expats in France Quarterly Financial Forum—4th quarter 2024 with Brian Dunhill, Dunhill Financial, and Kelly Cutchin, Moneycorp Exchange Experts. The topic for this forum was Money Logistics-Banking and Daily Money Issues.

In essence, Brian first enlightened us on how the U.S. elections have affected a strong dollar and how that might play out in the future. Kelly gave us a precise overview of currency transfer and Moneycorp’s unique benefits and advantages over working directly with your bank—not only are the costs to make the currency transfers significantly lower, they offer seasoned and knowledgeable client relationship managers to help you make the best decisions.

This is why you don’t want to just arbitrarily use online transfer platforms, such as Wise, particularly on large transactions. The difference could easily cost you thousands of dollars lost to the banks rather than in your own pocket. Don’t make that mistake. Learn to use currency transfer to your advantage. This is one of those times, while the rate is low. At the time of this writing, the rate is almost at parity—1.00 US Dollar = 0.96183453 Euros, 1 EUR = 1.03968 USD!

The webinar was just one hour, so take a pause so you can easily view it on our YouTube channel.
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CONNEXION FRANCE

I’ve had a lot of inquiries from various media for interviews about the fallout of Americans wanting to move to other places (particularly France of course!). This news is big because so many Americans are seeking escape routes ever since the results of the elections did not go in the direction they were hoping. We have certainly seen the explosion in our own inquiries, so it’s easy to report. As a result, we and our clients are getting quoted in the press.

Here’s a recent article in Connexion France, French news in English since 2002, featuring our client, Pennie Zuercher, who is happily living in Nice with her husband, Geoff, in an apartment we found for them.

Enjoy the read.
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CENTRAL PARIS—PEDESTRIAN ZONE

For years I’ve been advising our clients to purchase in districts 1 through 4 in Paris because the future of the zone was destined to go pedestrian. Everywhere a street has turned to eliminating traffic to allow for pedestrians, property values have increased and the merchants on the street have experienced newfound business. I can recall when the rue des Rosiers’ merchants (in the heart of the 4th) protesting against that street going full-on pedestrian, only to watch it explode with activity the minute it became accessible on foot…without the noise, fumes and danger of the cars. They ate their words within moments after that happening.

And now it’s finally happened that all four arrondissements are following suit! Starting this past Monday, November 4th, a large portion of central Paris became off-limits to vehicles under the city’s new environmental initiative.

The “Zone à Trafic Limité” (ZTL), signed into law on October 31st, focused on reducing through traffic in Paris’ historic core, covering approximately five square kilometers across the four districts. These areas include such iconic and important city landmarks as Le Musée du Louvre and the Hôtel de Ville, but have excluded the Île de la Cité and the upper banks of the Seine.

The ZTL applies to most vehicles—cars, motorbikes, and vans. However, residents, workers, disabled individuals, delivery drivers, and visitors to shops, cultural sites, or medical appointments are exempt. Emergency services, public transport, taxis (and even Ubers), and breakdown recovery vehicles are also exempt. So, don’t distress—you’ll still be able to reach your hotel, your apartment or your favorite shops and restaurants, but with a whole lot less noise and pollution.

This measure builds on Paris’ long-term efforts to curb car usage, enhance public spaces, and promote cycling, walking, and public transport. According to City Hall, the aim is to eliminate “transit traffic”—vehicles passing through the city center without stopping—which accounts for up to 50% of daily traffic in the ZTL. Even I am shocked by this number, but if that’s true, then eliminating 50% is a big deal. They might not have counted on property values increasing, but mark my words, that will happen. (I doubt that’s what City Hall led by Socialist Mayor Anne Hidalgo actually wants, but that’s what they will get.)

Enforcement will initially focus on educating drivers, with a three-to-six-month grace period during which they will be informed of the rules. Later, random vehicle checks will be implemented, and a self-declaration system for essential journeys is under consideration.

While not an outright vehicle ban, the ZTL reflects a broader effort to shift city infrastructure away from cars, which account for just 4.3% of trips in Paris. Officials argue that reallocating space for pedestrians, cyclists, and public transit benefits the majority of Parisians, particularly those who rely less on private vehicles.

In light of all this, one thing City Hall has not considered: being a pedestrian in Paris. Now, with the onslaught of bike lanes and complicated traffic patterns, it has become increasingly difficult and dangerous to cross the streets. Ask any pedestrian of Paris if what I say is not true! The city officials won’t address the issue openly, but anyone who walks the streets of Paris knows that it’s become an obstacle course. This should at least make it less dangerous inside of 1 through 4!

This initiative is definitely a step in the right direction! And I am certainly not unhappy about what it’s doing to increase the value of my property in the 3rd Arrondissement.

Learn more about it.
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RUE DE SAINTONGE

Part of this pedestrian initiative took place last year when the city removed all the car parking on my own street, rue de Saintonge, and replaced it with bike and pedestrian paths, rendering the street a whole lot quieter and less busy with traffic than ever before. You may have read from past Nouvellettres® that the apartment is undergoing complete restructuring—steel beams have been installed to provide a solid framework to effectively hold up the two floors above my apartment, as they discovered a few beams were damaged…how or when no one knows. But, with 350 years of wear and tear, “tout est possible.”

It’s been a traumatic event for me because I’ve been in this apartment for 27 years and have loved every 17th-century aspect of it. The building has a beautiful cobblestoned courtyard with four entrances that surround it. My entrance has the original classic wide and elegant curving staircase that led to the reception rooms and bedrooms of the aristocrats who originally inhabited it.

I have always joked about the 70 steps to my apartment, and in truth have always enjoyed them—they are low rise, easy to climb and the beauty of the staircase supersedes any encumbrances. For all those years, I have never dreaded climbing them and have learned how to roll my suitcases up or down them without too much strain. They have kept me healthy and fit, too. I intended to live in this apartment the rest of my life, as long as I could manage the stairs. In Paris, it is not unusual to see very elderly people climbing up many flights, and now we know why they are so old and so fit!

The work in the apartment is going quickly. Weekly there is a meeting with the architect and crew, and the architect later sends a report with photos. Interior Designer Martine di Mattéo and her construction crew are working with me and the building’s architect to get the apartment back up to livability as quickly as possible.

There is some discussion, now that the apartment will be “a clean slate,” that it makes sense for me to seek out another apartment for myself, my daughter and her son to share in some way, as this one is now too small for all of us, and put the rue de Saintonge apartment up for sale. The buyer will be buying into a historical property that is guaranteed to stay historic for many centuries to come! It is likely that we will leave it a “clean slate” so that the new owner can construct and enhance it just to his own taste and satisfaction. Martine is prepared to offer design ideas and the final construction to the new owner.

If you are interested in learning more, email me to be put on a special mailing list…for if and when the time comes that it might hit the market!

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GIVING THANKS

Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. I love that it’s non-secular and that families and friends come together to share a traditional meal. It’s always been special to me and make a point of celebrating it regardless of where I am at the time. I’ve made a whole lot of French turkeys over the years, which cost a fortune and cook in half the time of American turkeys. I’ve been known to pay as much as 85€ for small turkey at a local butcher, but have it cook in as little as 1.5 hours!

French turkeys are more likely to be raised as heritage breeds, meaning they are allowed to roam freely, forage for food, and grow at a slower pace, resulting in a richer, more flavorful meat compared to the large, commercially bred turkeys common in the U.S. which prioritize rapid growth and large breast size. What you encounter is darker, juicier meat that is less dense, so it cooks faster. Believe it or not, France has become the world’s third-largest producer of turkeys, trailing only the United States and Germany. The French word for turkey is “dinde” because it came from the West Indies and it was originally called the “poule d’inde.”

Last year in Nice we hosted our first Thanksgiving Dinner at Oscar Restaurant with 55 people. I’ll never forget it because I spent much of the day at the Hôpital Pasteur with my cousin, Leslie, who managed to fall and break her leg just a couple hours before the turkey was served.

Her treatment by the Niçois hospital staff was exemplary and her stay with surgery was about as pleasant as any bone breaking situation could imagine. (It also cost about one-tenth of what it would have if she had the same treatment in the U.S.) Meanwhile, she was in X-rays while we were chowing down on Thanksgiving delicacies and having fun getting to know the others in the community. It certainly wasn’t the Thanksgiving Day she was planning to spend with me.

(You can read the entire story here.)

We’re doing Thanksgiving again this year and fully booked the restaurant. The waiting list is as long as is the attendee list, so we may have to seek out a larger venue for next year where we can see 100 people! Our community in Nice has grown by leaps and bounds and our clients who have settled there love the reward of making so many friends so quickly. Thanksgiving is just a testament to that success.

I won’t be there this year, as I’m still in Maui with my daughter where we will have our own Thanksgiving with family—something I haven’t done in a very long time. We set out to buy our own turkey at Whole Foods and found them to be so big for just the four of us that we opted to make duck instead! It will be the first for me, but am sure we’re not the only family with the same dilemma. Also on the menu will be cranberry sauce (fresh cranberries near to impossible to get in France), green beans (that’s easy in France, since it’s the “national vegetable”—”haricots verts”), cornbread stuffing, mashed potatoes and for dessert, it might end up banana bread since we are overrun with home-grown bananas!

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

A la prochaine…